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Thread: Biased 4406 networks

  1. #16
    Senior Member Uncle Paul's Avatar
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    Here you go

    http://jblproservice.com/pdf/Studio%...ries/4311B.pdf

    C1 becomes 2 16 uF in series
    C2 becomes 2 6 uF in series

    At the junction of each cap pair is a pull down resistor. Each resistor connects to the positive terminal of the 9 v battery. The negative terminal of the 9 v battery connects to ground
    "Zobel is as zobel does"

  2. #17
    Senior Member Rusnzha's Avatar
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    C1 becomes 2 16 uF in series
    C2 becomes 2 6 uF in series

    At the junction of each cap pair is a pull down resistor. Each resistor connects to the positive terminal of the 9 v battery. The negative terminal of the 9 v battery connects to ground
    Thanks for the info, it made my day. You made it so simple I can't help wondering why I didn't figure it out myself. I put bypass caps on them a while ago and was amazed with the improvement. I'm still trying to find out just how good these old JBLs can get.

  3. #18
    Senior Member Rusnzha's Avatar
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    Originally written by Uncle Paul
    C1 becomes 2 16 uF in series
    C2 becomes 2 6 uF in series

    At the junction of each cap pair is a pull down resistor. Each resistor connects to the positive terminal of the 9 v battery. The negative terminal of the 9 v battery connects to ground
    I got all the parts together and built them this weekend. I used Solen 16ufd and 6.2ufd main caps and bypassed them with AudioCap .01 ufd and 2.7 Megohm pull down resistors. I had to tweek the Lpads afterward due to some added brightness in the mids. Everything on them seemed to tighten up including the low end. I thought I was crazy since the low end goes straight through but a friend who was familiar with the L100 agreed that the bass tightened up. We did some more tweeking and wound up with the mids at -1/2 and the highs at 0. I turned my bass and treble up just a hair past flat. Damn, they sounded good! Now, they give my main system (6.1 surround with Studio Series 412s, 38s, Center and 2241H) a real run for the money on some things if you're not in the sweet spot.

    Uncle Paul, thanks for making it simple. I wanted to do this for a while and you helped me get it worked out so I was comfortable to get the stuff and do it. I am enjoying my L100s more than ever.

  4. #19
    Senior Member Uncle Paul's Avatar
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    Happy to help and glad you got such pleasing results!
    "Zobel is as zobel does"

  5. #20
    Junior Member brettMc's Avatar
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    Will pay to have someone build a biased crossover for my 4406's!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Paul View Post
    Happy to help and glad you got such pleasing results!

    Hi all,

    i posted to this forum back in 2012 my first post.

    i just love my 4406's for me they perform better in my room than my 4312's.

    i am dying to hear one you pros out there help take them to the next level. Please let me know if anyone is interested in helping me reach 4406 audio nirvana!

    i reside in LA if that makes it any easier....

    many thanks!

    brett

  6. #21
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    Both charge-coupled and bypassed, OEM PCB. Tiny MKPs from industry (Arcotronics) with some creative lead bending and voilā.
    I feel it's like we've moved from a cheap, slow, boring and muddy CD player for a more alive-cleaner-detailled one without any harshness.
    Had those cheap MKPs, dozens of K71-4 Polystyrene and L-pad resistors (Mills); to be honest can't tell the ratio on SQ improvement related to parts quality or CC...
    In the end it sounds very good to me: very good these 4406!

    About voltages regarding to 9V:
    http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...kers-need.html

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