JBL L100t

[VintageJBL]

Since this thread popped up again I will add that I bought a second pair of L100t3's last weekend. Only $200 from the original owner. I could swear that He had tears in his eyes. He knew what he was loosing, but the wife was "tired of those big eye sores".

I have owned a pair of L100t3's since 1990 or 1991 and they are still sitting in the family room working great after 16 years of daily service. They still have the original surrounds that are in like new condition. They are working great as the front left and right hand speakers in a multimedia setup.

My wife will complain about them on occasion but I remind her that I have known those speakers longer than her and she shouldn't force me to choose between the two of them. Every time I think about getting new speakers I really can't justify it. They sound great and, for me, they still fill me needs and then some.

One last thing I will add is that the t3 variants of the L100/80/20 series are a definite improvement over the T versions. This was driven home for me after owning a pair of L80T's and then buying a pair of L80t3's and directly comparing them. The L80t3's cross overs seem to provide a much smoother blending between the speakers which make for a big improvement in the overall sound, IMHO.

Anyone that can pickup a t3 version of the L100/80s definitely won't be disappointed.

[Don Mascali]

Vintage JBL Said:
"Anyone that can pickup a t3 version of the L100/80s definitely won't be disappointed."

I agree.
Now if I could stop building speakers for my HT Room I will try bypassing or charge coupling the X overs. The various threads make it sound like an effective mod.

[VintageJBL]

Don, I just noticed that you live in, or near, Haymarket. I live in Peidmont just on the other side of I-66. It is a small world after all.

[Don Mascali]

PM sent as I don't want to High Jack the mans thread,

[Thorzdad]

Welcome to the forum. Nice amp for the L100T's.

Thank you.

So, am I correct in thinking that one could simply swap-in the crossover from an L100t3 into an L100t and radically improve the sound?

[330indy]

Agree on the enclosure veneers. Over time if you oiled your cabinets as we have been 'told' we should the veneer will pull away. But, who cares as long as the enclosures are airtight. For almost 20 years my L100ts have been bringing a smile to my face.

I had both 2214s re-coned in Indy about two years ago. It cost me 350. (as much as what you guys are buying used pairs for) but I had to do it.
Boy did the local guys do a superb job! The speakers perform as new. Love the old school JBL sound with my Yamaha old school C-70/M-70 combo. Gotta love Ebay for the vintage audio bargains!!

I did some upgrades in 1990 with Van Den Hul: rewired them (internal crossovers) with Mono Crystal Silver (silver clad copper) and upgraded the binding posts, and it honestly livened them up.

Have you guys ever noticed these JBLs are phase (absolute) inverting?
oh yes... as they would not cooperate with my Velodyne ULD15 II. If you are unsure about yours, just hook up a AA 1.5 volt battery to the terminals... cone should move out, not in. Simple solution is to switch your speaker wire leads.

Just some random trivia.
regards.

[JBL Mike]

I have a pair of these speakers that I bought in 1978, and they are BULLETPROOF! They still sound as good today (they're playing upstairs as I type this) as they did when I bought them. I paid $240 each -- 508 bucks including tax for the pair. Along with my Sansui G5700 (purchased in 1980 and still going strong), the best audio investments I've ever made. I like the wording in the L100 brochure: "the volume level generated by a JBL loudspeaker will become noticeably discomforting to the ear before the loudspeaker can be damaged". In other words, you'll hurt your ears before you hurt these speakers. The veneer on the cabinets isn't the best, but who cares -- they still look pretty damn good for 30-year old speakers. I love these things!

[JBL Mike]

Where's the best place to get replacement grille foam for the JBL L100?

[hjames]

Where's the best place to get replacement grille foam for the JBL L100?

The best ones I've seen are from Foamtrends - http://www.foamtrends.com/

I opted for a grey pair for an L100 set I sold this summer ...
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ad.php?t=20921

But they sell all the original colors and some new stuff as well!
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...00+foam&page=2

If you need the grill frames to support the foam, they have them as well.

[SEAWOLF97]

JBL L100s speakers - $250 (Cannon Beach)

Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]
Date: 2009-03-04, 7:22AM PST


Nice set of JBL 100s speakers. Good condition, Bass cone surrounds need to be replaced. sound great. Circ 1985 or so. Cabinets and grills in excellent shape. I can bring in to Portland as well.

[natsup5548]

Please help. My JBL L100 T was damaged by flood. the whole cabinets have to be replaced. I can have it made of wood or gypsum board. However, I do not know the exact size of the cabinet, as it has bloated, and the exact placement of the speakers, crossover, port, tweeters, midranges, etc.

Calling all JBL 100 T users - If you can send me the exact measurements I would be eternally grateful. Thank you so much!

[JBL 4645]

pdf for the JBL L100T including dimensions

http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/...L100t%20ts.pdf

[pathfindermwd]

Please help. My JBL L100 T was damaged by flood. the whole cabinets have to be replaced. I can have it made of wood or gypsum board. However, I do not know the exact size of the cabinet, as it has bloated, and the exact placement of the speakers, crossover, port, tweeters, mid-ranges, etc.

Calling all JBL 100 T users - If you can send me the exact measurements I would be eternally grateful. Thank you so much!

I'm listening to my L100T with T3 crossovers right now! i think you should find some cabs in decent condition and go from there. If you do take the time to build your own, try mirror imaging them. If your house got that flooded that it destroyed the cabs beyond measurement, I would worry that the drivers (which are paper) got damaged too, might just want to find a new pair of T3's

Ok, ok, I'll bite. here's the exterior dimensions (3/4" wall thickness)...

Height 35 1/2 inches tall (box without the base)
width 16" (baffle)
depth 13.25"

From side to side..
the tweeter and mid-range are offset..9" from one side, 7" from the other..on center, exactly

The woofer sits exactly in the center at 8" on center.

From the top of the box down, the speaker centers are..

Tweeter 5"
Mid-Range 10 1/2"
woofer 19 3/4"

You will have to router out the ledge for the tweeter per the tweeter plate circumference, and thickness, and make the circumference of the holes per the driver circumference dimensions, I'm not taking mine apart tonight to give them to you!

The terminal can go just about anywhere, and your plastic vent port should be in tact enough to instruct you on how big it's hole needs to be. There is a post around here somewhere which suggests that the port can go in front if you want, it helps if you need to place your speakers up against the wall.

As I am a huge fan of these speakers, don't disappoint me, post the pics of your end result. And.. don't revive 6 year old posts anymore, it makes me feel silly for replying to them!

[natsup5548]

Thank you so much for the specs. I'm from the Philippines and there are no cabinet makers here with the specs. We have to provide the specs. Will post a pic in a month or two. Thanks again!

[natsup5548]

Thanks for the manual!