Hi, the stock caps in the 4345 was replaced with Clarity and Auricap . The Switch was bypassed and the binding post changed.
The initial results are promising even without burn in. Now need to replace the L pads with fixed resistors.
Thanks everyone for your kind help and a special thanks to Ian….you are indeed the “ YODA”
Regards
dev
FWIW, I’m still using the L-Pads in my 4345’s after owning them for nearly twenty years, but do rotate them every year or so. If you’re really keen on replacing them with fixed resistors, I would wait a year or two. It can take a long time to get four ways dialed-in.
Congratulations on the acquisition of your new speakers.
Hello all, I bypassed the switch and wired it in Bi amping mode ( external x over) and I am not using external x over for the LF at this point of time. So I am using Jumpers in between the binding post and using a single Tube amplifier , but the system lack dynamics ……
since I wired it in bi amp mode , the signal to the LF doesn’t come through the internal crossover? ( though I use jumpers between the binding post) Do I need an external crossover and an amp for LF if the switch is bypassed and wired in external x over mode?
Thanks and Regards
Aha, so this was the plan! I've scanned the thread and must have missed where you asked about this step in your project. If you have done this thinking of other JBL speakers which use jumpers, please understand that they may not have switches, thus do not remove anything from the circuit, except the jumpers, for bi-amping, or more likely, bi-wiring.
I assume there is a reason for not having the woofer amp and external line-level crossover at the ready—like not yet having found the right deal, yes? Yes, you need them both.
Now that you have asked about it after doing the mods, my suggestion would be to look into the future and see how far off the amp and crossover are, realistically; then decide to forego the speakers or restore the circuit and give yourself time to find the equipment you need. I know it's a bit tedious to think of modding, unmodding, then remodding, but what else are you going to do?
You may like the speakers just fine using only one amp full range.
"Audio is filled with dangerous amateurs." --- Tim de Paravicini
I have been following this thread and I have a question as to the function of this bi-amp switch. Is this switch separating the woofer from the internal crossover, giving the option to use an external active two way crossover, sending the low Hz output to one amplifier which is connected to the woofer and the Hi Hz output to another amplifier connected to the input of the internal crossover. Lo Hz crossover point selected at the active crossover?
So the wiring is done in passive mode and happy with the end result ( though the bi amp mode with external x over sounded even better)
Changed the cap, replaced the L pad in the mids with resistors , the binding post are new and the switch is bypassed and i am more satisfied with the new sound. More intimacy , better clarity and more life to the music.
Thanks a ton to Ian Mackenzie for the help and answering all my mails.
Thanks Riley and all others who gave valuable inputs.
Regards
Hi Dev,
That’s a very nice set up.
Where are your slant plate horn lens?
Can you tell us about your hifi components?
Ian
Hi Ian, thanks for the compliment. The Lens were missing when I purchased the speaker. Need to order it from eBay. How important are those lenses?
My audio equipment is all digital.
Proceed CDT 3 transport / Aurender S10 streamer / Denafrips Terminator / Conrad Johnson CT 5 pre and Conrad Johnson LP70s power .
Regards
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