Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 28

Thread: Genuine JBL 2235h?

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    italy
    Posts
    8

    Genuine JBL 2235h?

    Hi,
    can you please help me to identify if these are original (reconed) 2235h? I'd like to buy them but i'm not experienced enough to avoid "hybrids". Many thanks in advance
    Name:  IMAGE_1629032783650_2435152348682736813.jpg
Views: 259
Size:  280.1 KB
    Name:  IMAGE_1629032783694_7866285005637567488.jpg
Views: 251
Size:  280.1 KB
    Name:  IMAGE_1629035059564_2174045159624411704.jpg
Views: 245
Size:  118.6 KB
    Name:  IMAGE_1629035059597_5182053070827132354.jpg
Views: 246
Size:  84.4 KB

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    GTA, Ont.
    Posts
    4,943
    They do look legit to these eyes.

    BTW; Reconed JBL usually do have that "white" grease pencil markings ( as seen written on the back of the cone ).


  3. #3
    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Back in Montreal
    Posts
    1,289
    At first glance they look legit...
    Check through the hole if the old foam filter has been removed, should have been replaced by another material, or just left open so you see the inside of the dustcap.
    My avatar: 4520 loaded with 2225H on E140 frames,
    1x 2202H on custom front loaded horn, 2x 2426 on 2370.

  4. #4
    Senior Member jbl4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    McHenry IL
    Posts
    332
    Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil

  5. #5
    Senior Member jbl4ever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    McHenry IL
    Posts
    332
    Also do not see the rear gasket noodle that came with a new recone kit

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    GTA, Ont.
    Posts
    4,943
    Quote Originally Posted by jbl4ever View Post
    Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil

    Good Eyes jbl4ever !!

    I didn't notice the E130/E140 basket ( nor the trim gasket being different than what I'm used to ).

    The E130/140 basket should be a deal breaker ( even if the kits are authentic ) since the bigger/thicker magnet on the E130/E140 means the two woofers won't be a matched pair.


  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    italy
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by jbl4ever View Post
    Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil
    Thanks to everyone: your precious advices arrived just before closing the deal. Thanks again

  8. #8
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,286
    Since the drivers' back vent is open i had the same idea as Eaulive regarding any remaining foam in that cavity. Foam rot in woofers is a pain to remove correctly, and if not done it can migrate in the gap.

    I use a small powerful flashlight pointing inside that vent hole AND lower in it a small round dentist mirror with a handle (same as they put in your mouth) to look around the driver's interior. Then you know if there's any of that foam left.

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    italy
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    Since the drivers' back vent is open i had the same idea as Eaulive regarding any remaining foam in that cavity. Foam rot in woofers is a pain to remove correctly, and if not done it can migrate in the gap.

    I use a small powerful flashlight pointing inside that vent hole AND lower in it a small round dentist mirror with a handle (same as they put in your mouth) to look around the driver's interior. Then you know if there's any of that foam left.
    I cannot inspect the drivers because i still have to buy them. More reasonable thing is to give up and wait for better opportunities. Thanks

  10. #10
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,286
    It may not be reasonable to give up purchasing for foam left since other drivers you'll encounter may still have inside foam too. So you don't give up here for that sole reason as you may have to give up again and again. Sadly, good internal inspection, including cutting the dustcap to check inside the gap, is the only way to know...

  11. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    italy
    Posts
    8
    [QUOTE=RMC;437805]It may not be reasonable to give up purchasing for foam left since other drivers you'll encounter may still have inside foam too. So you don't give up here for that sole reason as you may have to give up again and again. Sadly, good internal inspection, including cutting the dustcap to check inside the gap, is the only way to know...[/QUOTE

    inside foam is not my main concern, actually. Also baskets seem to be “strange hybrids” if you read the above advices. They’re asking 840 euros + shipping and for that money i’d like to buy drivers in very good conditions.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Back in Montreal
    Posts
    1,289
    Quote Originally Posted by jbl4ever View Post
    Hello c10m, the one driver a the top of the photo was a E130 or E140 basket in its day. This can be seen by the mounting holes having the larger half moon clips drilled in the mounting frame. I have never in all my days had a 2235 or 2225 frame with this in it. Only MI drivers. It has been about 5 years since I had a new C8R2235 kit but the trim gasket on these look different. Can you get a better close up on the dust caps to make sure there is no lip on them. As for a grease pencil anyone can buy them and use it on the back of the cone before assembly. That's how it was done at the shop years ago and sometimes a fabric chalk pencil
    Good eyes indeed, I didn't see that.
    However I have originals E-140 frames here and they don't have that half-moon shape around the mounting holes... Actualy it's the first time I notice those.
    My avatar: 4520 loaded with 2225H on E140 frames,
    1x 2202H on custom front loaded horn, 2x 2426 on 2370.

  13. #13
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    France
    Posts
    5
    Hello c10m,

    I have several genuine C8R2235 and they all have the number 50320 printed on the back, close to the spider ( not handwritten).
    From my experience if you don't see this number, they are not originals

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    GTA, Ont.
    Posts
    4,943
    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll View Post
    Hello c10m,

    I have several genuine C8R2235 and they all have the number 50320 printed on the back, close to the spider ( not handwritten).
    From my experience if you don't see this number, they are not originals

    Yes, good point.

    That 50320 number needs to be there ( though many times it's located so high on the cone that it gets hidden from view ) .

    See this for an example ( this is an unused C8R2235 that I now need to refoam since it's a good 20 years old )

    Name:  IMG_0293.jpg
Views: 216
Size:  75.8 KB


  15. #15
    Senior Member Eaulive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Back in Montreal
    Posts
    1,289
    Quote Originally Posted by Earl K View Post
    Yes, good point.

    ( this is an unused C8R2235 that I now need to refoam since it's a good 20 years old )

    Kind of funny and sad at the same time, having to refoam a recone kit...
    My avatar: 4520 loaded with 2225H on E140 frames,
    1x 2202H on custom front loaded horn, 2x 2426 on 2370.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. JBL 2416 Genuine?
    By Shaun M in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-03-2015, 09:41 AM
  2. Is this a genuine Altec enclosure?
    By Horn Savant in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 05-27-2015, 04:13 AM
  3. Are those genuine 2121's?
    By martin2395 in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12-21-2013, 05:40 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •