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Thread: JBL 375 Trash Bin Find...Can they be saved?????

  1. #1
    Junior Member Daddyo1935's Avatar
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    JBL 375 Trash Bin Find...Can they be saved?????

    Hello all. I acquired these out of the scrap bin. Very sad to see. I was hoping to install these into my C50's but think there too far gone. They even had the L93 horns.

    Possible acid dip or anyone have experience restoring these type of items? I hate to see stuff get trashed and not saved if at all possible.

    Thank you in advance for the input

    BR
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  2. #2
    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
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    Those will have to come completely apart to be saved.

    I have several that I need to take apart, clean and re-plate before assembly. I hope
    to get to them this month- August.

    I have already built a simple machine to pull them apart.

    Maybe my journey will be a guide should you decide to give it a go.

    In any event don’t scrap them, yet.

    Barry.
    If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.

  3. #3
    Junior Member Daddyo1935's Avatar
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    Thank you for the response. I will put these aside and wait to see your input on this process. Thanks a million

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    Score is a score.

    While I've not done anything like this, I personally find restoring or refinishing items to be so rewarding. You learn a lot a long the way, and its one thing to have something great, it's another level when you can show it in the worst condition it's been, then back in action doing what it does best.

    I look forward to this contraption you speak of Barry.

  5. #5
    Junior Member Daddyo1935's Avatar
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    I have to say, I am anxiously awaiting a update on this project!

  6. #6
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    To keep you occupied ( & hopeful ), here's a thread over at AudioKarma ;

    Something for you do do in the meantime.


    Rusted Altec Driver Find



    Barry will no doubt do his refurbishment properly ( given his occupation and skills ) which I speculate will lead to a process that would be difficult for most to match.

    One problem here is the rust between the top-plate and return pot ( outer shell ) of the driver . Rust acts as an insulator ( resistance ) to the magnetic return circuit working properly ( the magnetic forces flow through these parts ).

    These parts need to be completely dismantled / all the rust removed // then all flat surfaces "blueprinted" back to a proper flatness > as in motor engine rebuilding // all so that the magnetic circuit will flow efficiently into the Voice-Coil gap .
    - Dismantling these parts is dangerous ( and once apart ) requires the magnet to be recharged upon reassembly.

    Failure to do so ( after a dismantling ) results in a magnet that has maybe 25% of the intended charge strength >> essentially creating a doorstop.


  7. #7
    Junior Member Daddyo1935's Avatar
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    Thank you for the thread. I will review this today to keep me at bay. I am sure his process and skills are worth the wait to see how this is properly done. I feel pretty confident that I will have success in this process as well once I see how it is done. I've been building racing engines for NASCAR, Indi-Car, and finally F-1 for the last 36 years. There isn't too much that I'm scared to attempt to fix. Thanks again sir for the read.
    Best Regards

  8. #8
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    Ahhh, Okay!

    I've been building racing engines for NASCAR, Indi-Car, and finally F-1 for the last 36 years. There isn't too much that I'm scared to attempt to fix. Thanks again sir for the read.


    Perfect! Compression driver rebuilding really ought to be childs-play for you once you understand the steps.

    You might need to build a magnet charger if you can't access one locally ( regionally ) .

    I know of at least one ( if not more ) LHF member who's built his own.



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