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Thread: Finally Got the JBL 4345

  1. #1
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    Finally Got the JBL 4345

    Hi, Greetings to everyone. After a long search I found a pair of 4345 and now waiting for the recone kit to arrive. Meanwhile thought of getting rid of that infamous switch in the crossover.
    Will share the pictures before I start disturbing you guys with my questions.
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    The crossover
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  3. #3
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    The Switch in the Crossover of JBL 4345.
    how to wire it directly without using this switch? I went through Warpigs thread , but that was a different kind of switch please advice how to go about it.

    Thanks in advance.
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  4. #4
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    Still looking for help

    Hi , can anyone let me know how to get rid of the Switch and wire it directly? Or just cleaning it with deoxit is good enough?
    thanks

  5. #5
    Senior Member Odd's Avatar
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    I have no experience with this filter but here is the wiring diagram.

    You can see here what the switch does.



    3145 Network.pdf
    43XX (2235-2123-2450-2405-CC 3155)5235-4412-4406-4401-L250-18Ti-L40-S109 Aquarius lV-C38 (030) 305P MkII

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    By far the simplest approach is to bundle the mess off to someone who actually recognizes what they are looking at ( and then have that same person add 6 bypass wires at the proper locations // essentially doubling up the connections being made by the switch ) .

    I would add//solder these bypass wires onto the lower "L-shaped" leads that are themselves soldered into the ( unseen ) circuit board traces .

    Those switches are too heavily corroded for cleaner ( IME ). Cleaner won't remove that black oxidization ( only applied abrasion >> not recommended since the switch will fall apart under the duress of filing ).


  7. #7
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    Thanks

    Thanks Odd for the diagram and thanks Earl, will sent it to a service guy. I donít think I can do it myself.
    Any pictures of how the wiring is done?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dev View Post
    Thanks Odd for the diagram and thanks Earl, will sent it to a service guy. I don’t think I can do it myself.
    Any pictures of how the wiring is done?

    There's no pic here at LHF ( that I know of ) that shows how to hardwire the switch ( into the input mode of your choice >> & BTW once you add the necessary 6 wires one is stuck with the choice of input mode made ).

    If a tech ( or anyone else for that matter ) can't figure out for themselves ( which 6 pairs of tabs get hard-wired together for either input mode ) then they have no business mucking about inside these boxes crossovers ( IMO ).


  9. #9
    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...r.-A-pictorial


    https://jbl43.net/catalogs/networks/3145_Network.pdf

    The first link is a thread l wrote which tells you concisely what each tab on the pcbs are for.

    If you are planning on using the system in full passive mode put the crossover mode switch in the passive position.

    1. Connect a new Black insulated 7.5 amp wire from the High Frequency input negative terminal to the woofer negative terminal.

    Then connect a new Red wire from the High Frequency positive input terminal to the input side of the L101 5.4mH inductor.

    No other changes are required.

    If you plan to use the system in bi amp mode put the switch in bi amp mode.

    1. Connect a Black insulted 7.5 amp wire from the Low input negative terminal to the woofer driver negative terminal.

    2. Connect a Red wire from the Low input positive terminal to the woofer driver positive terminal.

    3. Connect a Back wire from High Frequency input negative terminal to ground side of the L102 4.8mH inductor.

    4. Connect a Red wire from the High Frequency input positive terminal to the input side of L2 1.8mH inductor.

    No other changes are required.

    How you decide to implement this is entirely up to you. These networks were not designed to be modified for diy end users.

    If you wish you could attach crimp connectors to the wires and remove the existing crimp connectors as described on the inductors. The other end of the cables can be attached to the input terminals as described with a crimp connector.

    You will need to be able to follow the schematic. For example L102 4.8mH inductor will require a ground connection to the pcb ground via an insulated wire and the Black wire from the High negative input terminal. This is because the inductor is not directly mounted on the pcb.

  10. #10
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    Rewiring without the switch ( the no schematic reading version ).

    Rotate the switch to the desired biamp or passive position.
    Don't rotate it again after this.
    Mark one of the switch posts with a flag of tape.
    Mark the circuit board under the post with an X.
    Assign a number to each contact counting from the marked post.
    Remove the switch and clean out the holes in the PCB.
    Note where the switch contacts are bridged by the contacts on the switch ( there are five such 'bridges' based on the schematic.
    Solder a jumper between each pair of holes that match those bridged contacts.
    Confirm that the number of the holes jumpered matches the number and location of the switch contacts that are bridged.



    Quote Originally Posted by Dev View Post
    Thanks Odd for the diagram and thanks Earl, will sent it to a service guy. I don’t think I can do it myself.
    Any pictures of how the wiring is done?

  11. #11
    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    Having done this myself l would not recommend attempting to remove the switch unless the poster has experience in soldering and suitable tools. Damage to the pcb and the switch is likely which will impact on the marketability of the system.

    The inductors have crimp spade terminals and itís simple enough to connect with a crimp spade direct to the input terminals.

    If you read the link to the pictorial the terminals on the pcb are all labelled and the wires are colour coded. If you havenít got labeled cables thatís going to be an issue to sort out first.

    As a rule most system owners construct a charge coupled network using the new equivalent 3145 crossover schematic with more modern parts and without the losses in these legacy networks assemblyís, The tapped auto transformers donít perform as well subjectively as the new equivalent network.

    In comparison the bypassed Mylar capacitors are muffled subjectively. The stock networks arenít diy friendly.

  12. #12
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    Thanks a Ton Ian

    Thank you Ian for the great help. You are such a wonderful person. High Regards.






    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Mackenzie View Post
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...r.-A-pictorial


    https://jbl43.net/catalogs/networks/3145_Network.pdf

    The first link is a thread l wrote which tells you concisely what each tab on the pcbs are for.

    If you are planning on using the system in full passive mode put the crossover mode switch in the passive position.

    1. Connect a new Black insulated 7.5 amp wire from the High Frequency input negative terminal to the woofer negative terminal.

    Then connect a new Red wire from the High Frequency positive input terminal to the input side of the L101 5.4mH inductor.

    No other changes are required.

    If you plan to use the system in bi amp mode put the switch in bi amp mode.

    1. Connect a Black insulted 7.5 amp wire from the Low input negative terminal to the woofer driver negative terminal.

    2. Connect a Red wire from the Low input positive terminal to the woofer driver positive terminal.

    3. Connect a Back wire from High Frequency input negative terminal to ground side of the L102 4.8mH inductor.

    4. Connect a Red wire from the High Frequency input positive terminal to the input side of L2 1.8mH inductor.

    No other changes are required.

    How you decide to implement this is entirely up to you. These networks were not designed to be modified for diy end users.

    If you wish you could attach crimp connectors to the wires and remove the existing crimp connectors as described on the inductors. The other end of the cables can be attached to the input terminals as described with a crimp connector.

    You will need to be able to follow the schematic. For example L102 4.8mH inductor will require a ground connection to the pcb ground via an insulated wire and the Black wire from the High negative input terminal. This is because the inductor is not directly mounted on the pcb.

  13. #13
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    Thank you

    Thank you Riley.


    Quote Originally Posted by Riley Casey View Post
    Rewiring without the switch ( the no schematic reading version ).

    Rotate the switch to the desired biamp or passive position.
    Don't rotate it again after this.
    Mark one of the switch posts with a flag of tape.
    Mark the circuit board under the post with an X.
    Assign a number to each contact counting from the marked post.
    Remove the switch and clean out the holes in the PCB.
    Note where the switch contacts are bridged by the contacts on the switch ( there are five such 'bridges' based on the schematic.
    Solder a jumper between each pair of holes that match those bridged contacts.
    Confirm that the number of the holes jumpered matches the number and location of the switch contacts that are bridged.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    I will draw you to sketch of the changes over the weekend.

  15. #15
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    wow, Thanks, Thank you so much.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Mackenzie View Post
    I will draw you to sketch of the changes over the weekend.

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