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Thread: Speaker Cable Spade Lug to Pin Adapters. Or?

  1. #1
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Speaker Cable Spade Lug to Pin Adapters. Or?

    Hello All, I didn't know which sub-forum to post this in?

    Speakers in question, an unmolested pair of 4430 Monitors, and have no intentions of molesting-modifying them.

    I'm not taking about DIY making up the cheapo Monster, Belden, Canare-etc Cables with the likes of Parts Express-etc Pins. I've gone this route already.

    I'd like going beyond with some better cables, yet again, have no desires or ripping apart the speakers to retrofit better Bindng Posts. Yes, I am aware this is of course the best audiophile way to go, did it to my 2 pair of Jubals, and do have some regrets of taking them away from bone stock original.

    Such simpler Pins might be a major headache with more complex Cable designs which are often multi-strand. Let's say a pair of Kimber 8TC-12TC Cables as an example.

    So, does somebody know of adapters that I speak of, and if so, can someone please point me in the right direction?

    Or will I be relegated to taking a Dremel Tool, or Side Cutters to butcher, and hack off one lug on a Spade Lug on let's say a $400-$600 or up pair of speaker Cables? Might work, but sure not pretty or smart.

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    I guess you can't just tin the ends of $400 speaker cables can you?

  3. #3
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riley Casey View Post
    I guess you can't just tin the ends of $400 speaker cables can you?
    I might assume such has been done by end users. Maybe even companies doing such for you by special request?

    I've done such to simpler cables, where there's only 2 or 4 conductors. But never cables such as more complex Kimbers which are braided-woven from multiple smaller individual strands. The total diameter tinned might still be too thick for insertion.

    I was hoping somebody did make such a Spade Lug to Pin Adapter as I mention, and such would add versatility to any spade lug terminated Cable where it then could also be used with other Speakers which have better Binding Posts.

    Having a general idea of what Banana Terminations look like and their size, they would be too thick to insert into the holes of the Push Type Posts on a speaker such as the 4430 and others.

  4. #4
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Let me ask this, am I placing too much concern and worry about Speaker Cables?

    I'm surely not looking to go with the Garden Hose variety at something like $3K a 8' pair, but had thought that using a higher quality grade of wire would hold some sonic benefit.

    Or, am I over-thinking making some cabling improvements in my system and won't hear any improvements with Speaker Cables versus the cables I have been using?

    Which have been Belden "10 White", (10 ga) and Canare 4S11 that I both bought in bulk from Blue Jeans Cable.

    And yes, I was able to terminate these cables at the Speaker End with Pin Adapters that I forget where I got them from, RAM, or ? Is this good enough or can improvements still be gotten?

    Sure, they look fine and work fine, dressed them both in Techflex Sheathing, Shrink Wrap, the whole nine yards, look very nice.

    I wonder what other members use here for Speaker Cabling, when they have many of the JBL Speakers which have Push Pin Binding Posts, and have not modified their speakers to other Binding Posts?

    Are such folks all then relegated to using simpler and less expensive Cables and designs?

    Lastly, I suppose I myself, or even perhaps if willing to spend the money, could have a competent Machinist fabricate such an Adapter of let's say pure Copper, and where it has a machined flat block area with a threaded Screw which would accept any common Spade Lug and/or Banana Plug from a Speaker Cable, and then terminate to a appropriately sized Pin to insert to the Push Pin Connectors of the 4430?

    I just found these earlier. These appear to accept a common Banana Plug, and terminate to a Pin.
    But so far, I have yet to find anyone who makes an Adapter that accepts a Spade Lug, and terminates to a Pin? Maybe I'm not using the right search terms?

    https://www.amazon.com/CESS-162-Bana...9698612&sr=8-3

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    It never hurts to go back to what the essence of the connection between the amplifier and speaker is - to move current as efficiently as possible. If you hew to that goal above all else you'll end up with simple ( and relatively cheap ) large gauge wire mated to high ampacity connectors. The spring terminals on the back of the speaker enclosure are anything but on that last point and replacing them with binding posts or terminal strips of course would mean making changes and that treads on the speaker as playback device vs speaker as museum piece. It also helps to remember that all of the drivers in the enclosure use those same spring terminals and the internal wiring is very low cost 16 ga hook up wire.

    Quote Originally Posted by markd51 View Post
    Let me ask this, am I placing too much concern and worry about Speaker Cables?

    ...

  6. #6
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    I'm understanding of what you say and of course what you are relating to are the weakest links in an audio system.
    Eliminating and lessening any and all weak links in a system are the common keys to overall sonic improvement.

    Better Amplification, Pre-Amplification, Source Components, Cabling-Wiring are some basics.

    When I had once discovered that I had totally fried 2 X-Over Networks inside my older beloved quad of JBL L-65 Jubal Speakers, I was of course sick. The other 2 X-Overs were probably nearing the ends of their life as well, and it came down to the choice of either repairing what was there, or going beyond?

    I went far beyond I feel, but of course the inner workings of those 4 Speakers are no longer stock JBL.

    Contacting JBL Pro at the time, a tech emailed me the Schematic of the first version L-65 Jubal's networks, which mine are.
    Once I had such, I had 4 custom made 3-way X-Overs adhering to stock specs fabricated with better-higher quality parts.

    Goertz Air Core Inductors, 300W for the 126A Bass Drivers, all Solen Poly Caps throughout, works of art they were, and the weight of them must've been 5lbs each.

    The new X-Overs were all attached the the Bottom Insides of the Cabs using 1" Nylon Standoffs.
    The wimpy and half shot 10W L-Pads were not removed, but merely snipped all wiring to them. I custom mounted all brand new 100W L-Pads onto the rear of the Cabinets with their own L-Pad Cups. All were precisely positioned for appearance and relative ease of use.

    All stock internal wiring upgraded, first from the new Edison-Price Solid Copper Binding Posts to the X-Over and then onto the 126A Bass Drivers were high purity copper hook up Wire was 12ga, and from the X-Over to the LE5-5 Mids, and 077 Tweeters and as well the L-Pads were wired with the same high purity Copper Wire but in 16ga.

    All Solder connections that were required at the Binding Posts and X-Over was done with WBT Solder.

    While I was inside, I did re-filet all panel joints with Carpenter's Glue, added foam gasketing to all drivers, re-attached all Port Tubes, and re-enforced all LE5-5 Sub Enclosures also to eliminate any possible vibtations.

    No, these speakers are no longer 100% bone stock original, but the sound performed very well, was pleased with the final results.

    Again though, I'd prefer not doing such mods to my mint pair of 4430 Speakers.

  7. #7
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Sorry for the longish post above.

    Bottom line is I'd like making some improvements here and there with my system, but not to go too crazy, or overboard with costs and time in the process.

    Amps are Bryston 7BSST2 Monoblocks bought new, McIntosh MX-130 being used as my Pre-Amp, modded VPI Table with ZYX Airy 3X Cartridge, two Sutherland Phono Stages, the PHD, and 20/20, older CAL Labs CD Transports-DACs, (2) decent cabling throughout, AQ, Kimber, Wireworld.

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    I have replaced JBL's terminals with binding posts, and no modification is necessary to the cabinet, they fit in the same holes where the original terminals were mounted (many sources for these). If you want to eventually return the speakers to "bone stock", it is a simple enough task with a soldering iron to re-install the original jacks. As I keep my JBLs with all of the original paperwork and packaging, i do understand the desire to be able to preserve their original condition when possible.

    Of couse the spade lugs on your cables need to be the right size to use with binding posts, or you will end up clamping just one side in the wire hole.

    I see and read so many people getting wrapped around the axle on speaker wires and terminations, where a good clean connection is fairly simple to accomplish.
    - Jeff

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    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SaturationPt View Post
    I have replaced JBL's terminals with binding posts, and no modification is necessary to the cabinet, they fit in the same holes where the original terminals were mounted (many sources for these). If you want to eventually return the speakers to "bone stock", it is a simple enough task with a soldering iron to re-install the original jacks. As I keep my JBLs with all of the original paperwork and packaging, i do understand the desire to be able to preserve their original condition when possible.

    Of couse the spade lugs on your cables need to be the right size to use with binding posts, or you will end up clamping just one side in the wire hole.

    I see and read so many people getting wrapped around the axle on speaker wires and terminations, where a good clean connection is fairly simple to accomplish.
    Yes, I understand what you're saying as well in your last sentence. and of course usually did that for years, especially back in the 70's and 80's when it appeared the good ole Monster Cable 2-Conductor Cable was the Cat's Meow golden standard.

    But look at this particular Kimber 12TC Speaker Cable as an example, scroll down to see its Matrix, and you might see where such might be a bit more difficult. I would very likely prefer a Cable such as this to be professionally terminated by the manufacturer.

    https://www.kimber.com/products/12TC

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    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Of course I recognize the cheapo Adapters I link to from Amazon aren't anywhere near Cardas and WBT quality for a measly $10-$11 or so. Cheapo Wally World Chinese fake Gold Plating, real Gold isn't cheap anywhere on earth.

    How much of a bottleneck such adapters create in the audio path, I'm sure there's some.

    Of course as mentioned, the 4430's internals lack, and if one wants to have some comfort on what a speaker can be and the sum of its parts, then simply walk with about $30K in hand to the nearest Wilson Audio Dealer, or walk over to MusicDirect in Chicago with $55K in hand for a pair of Everests. LOL

    Sure, if I hit the lottery!

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    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    This isn't a new question, and there are many paths forward.
    Also, there are many providers of spade to pin solutions, to answer your question.
    Using the speaker cables of your choice with your own unmodified speakers should not be a hand-wringing decision.
    You will find out if you like the result after living with them for awhile (more the connection reliability than the sound, imho, but that counts for jack).
    Have fun.

    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9438

    https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store...ctorcables.htm

    The cheaper ones will eventually break off inside the JBL terminals.

  12. #12
    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    This isn't a new question, and there are many paths forward.
    Also, there are many providers of spade to pin solutions, to answer your question.
    Using the speaker cables of your choice with your own unmodified speakers should not be a hand-wringing decision.
    You will find out if you like the result after living with them for awhile (more the connection reliability than the sound, imho, but that counts for jack).
    Have fun.

    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9438

    https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store...ctorcables.htm

    The cheaper ones will eventually break off inside the JBL terminals.
    I see no evidence with these cheapo monoprice pins you link to, of accepting spade lugs. The Blue Jeans link shows zero.

    Now here's a company that makes very nice high quality connectors, not wally world crap,but still not seeing the specific Adapters that I seek.

    https://www.viablue.de/com/connectors.php

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    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Bluejeans link just described some of the issues... You're free to ignore the info.

    The monoprice site was just an example:
    "These high quality plugs are the closed screw type and can accept bare wire or spades"

    I have no horse in this race.

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    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markd51 View Post
    Bottom line is I'd like making some improvements here and there with my system, but not to go too crazy, or overboard with costs and time in the process.
    You may want to read this article. It is the most informed and snake oil free article on speaker cable that I have found.

    https://www.audioholics.com/audio-vi...ker-wire-gauge

    If you read it, you will have answers to your termination questions as well as direction on speaker cable choices.


    Widget

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    Senior Member markd51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    Bluejeans link just described some of the issues... You're free to ignore the info.

    The monoprice site was just an example:
    "These high quality plugs are the closed screw type and can accept bare wire or spades"

    I have no horse in this race.

    I see.

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