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Thread: JBL speaker refurbish (D130 + 175)

  1. #1
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    JBL speaker refurbish (D130 + 175)

    Hello all

    I am needing some advice regarding my grandfathers speakers I inherited. He had them custom made by a JBL rep in the late 60s-early 70's. Initially, I was just going to sand a re-stain, but have decided on a full restore with Rosewood veneer.
    I have attached a few pics showing the original insulation. I have since ripped out the old stuff to replace it. I'm wondering what are the best replacement options? The speakers had different insulation in each of them. I'm not sure why, your guess is as good as mine. Also, the insulation was only on the inside top, the horn side and the back panel. I'm thinking of keeping it simple with egg crate foam. Would love some other opinions.

    Also, if anyone is interested, I can post more pics of the process of adding veneer.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Cool to maintain that legacy system! Some folks really go for that kind of grill cloth too.

    Pictures are always appreciated. Personally, if I can learn something it's all good

    You'll likely get a boatload of insulation suggestions from regular fiberglass (which is fine) to shredded denim and other alternatives.

    Again, personally, I'd go with the fiberglass, avoiding foam/egg-crate materials, but that's my thing.
    Rear and side panels are probably sufficient (and top and bottom if you like). Just don't skip adding some form of audio dampening material.

    Were they intended to have the drivers situated toward the floor? Curious choice. Welcome aboard

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    Thank for the reply grumpy! Excited to learn more.

    Why fiberglass over foam? Is fiberglass kosher for an "open system"?

    As far as the orientation is concerned, they were always vertical. But maybe they were originally built with horizontal placement in mind. It seems that was the style back then.

  4. #4
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    fiberglass? Cheap, readily available, works well and doesn't deteriorate. Used effectively in ported (open?) systems for ages. Could staple cheesecloth over it if there is a concern.

    Re orientation, normally one would want the higher frequency driver closer to seated ear lever rather than pointed at your shins, but perhaps it was intended or somehow balanced better in the room or was intended to be used sideways, as you noted. (very slightly) unfortunate that they are not mirror imaged, but that's a fun system as-is. Do have plans for amplification? (it would be easy to kill the 175 while trying to get more bass out of the speakers than they're designed for or capable of. Big ol' 15" driver?, yes, and good sounding bass? certainly capable of it, efficient driver? yes ... very low frequency, high volume, pounding bass? not so much) Nice that there was some thought given to bracing. I would certainly understand wanting to mostly leave them as is, particularly if it all works and you're happy living with them.

    Is the dark square area next to the cone driver another hole/port? Crossover mounted to the rear panel? N1200 perhaps?

    Some images from the time:

    http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...mall-boxes.jpg

  5. #5
    Senior Member Anti K's Avatar
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    #veneer

    Veneer is excellent.
    You did even the narrow inner edge with care where cab meets textile - quality lies in details.
    Love, when people do care how thing look like.

  6. #6
    Senior Member jbl4ever's Avatar
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    Excellent job on veneering them. Looks like you have them upside down? Long port on the bottom and the other cutout might have been for a 075 to be added later

  7. #7
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Nice project.

    Are the woofers D130, or 130A? Just curious.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Good point re fiberglass. Obviously, I don't want tiny pieces flying out into the house. But if there is a way to mitigate that (cheese cloth), then I'm into it.

    For amplification, currently running a Marantz 2245b, with a Marantz 2270 on deck that needs serviced. The original set up my grandfather had was with a 2270. This may change in the future. At 16ohms its my understanding they can handle a lot more than a 2270.

    Right again grumpy! N1200 mounted on the back panel. The small square by the 175 is port as well as the rectangle. And yes, its the D130.

    Re orientation. This is interesting. Makes sense the horns should be higher. Perhaps I do have them upside down, I've just always known them the sit this way. I'll switch them up and see what that does for the experience.

    You guys are awesome, excited to be a part of this community!
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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Any time I see the D130 paired with the LE175DLH it makes me think of an early system where JBL set up "building blocks" in stages so the average listener could afford them. That's the way they marketed the D130 in factory or home-built enclosures. Usually (after 1958?) the 075 was the later add-on to achieve better highs and a more linear response. The 175 existed prior to the 075. It just surprises me to see a system said to have been put together by a JBL engineer that wouldn't utilize the better low-end response of at least a 130A if they knew they were going to employ the 175 from the start.

    And all of my JBL systems, including my original 030 load my Dad purchased in 1957 or 1958 have fiberglass inside the cabinets. And it has held up just fine over the past 60-years. It is also what Kenrick uses in their cost-no-object replica systems today, like my 4345 clones. No real need to cover it up since you have grille cloth!
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Cool project. I love the look.

    I'll chime in on fiberglass. I hate the stuff... it is itchy and micro bits of the stuff float through the air when you cut it and work with it. That said, I have used it in >95% of the systems I have built because it works so well and unlike foam, it will never deteriorate.

    I use 1" thick ducting batting that is very low shedding and is the easiest to work with. In recent years I have used the blue denim house insulation with good results too.

    Regarding the sonics of your system, I have owned several somewhat similar systems. I would recommend using electronics with tone controls or the subtle use of an equalizer to fatten up the bottom end and add a little sparkle up top.


    Widget

  11. #11
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    I recently lined some speakers with that 1" Wrap-On fiberglass. It's evidently NLA, but doesn't shed - I wore a short sleeve shirt when installing it and didn't even itch. Anyway, I read of fiberglass particles shooting out of ports and it seemed to me that the port is tuned to resonate, not just vent out like a leaf blower inside the cabinet. To test it, I put a few fibers inside one port and cranked up some bass heavy music. The fibers danced back and forth in the port, but never moved in the length of the port. I've had a few fiberglass lined, ported speakers and have never noticed any fiberglass shooting out of the ports so I did the test. Try it for yourself and see what results you get.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Anti K's Avatar
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    You are a lucky bastard, AudioStubbs

    Before I purchased my current ones, was seeking a good pair of Altec 19 , to restore the veneer and stuff (just love the shape of these, cannot describe why).
    Got bored of HighEnd nonsens.

    But work overflood me and took in hurry some new 'bluebaffles'

    Now looking at Your project, these are kept in good conditions, drivers are like new - and You have a best reason as well - grandpa's gear!
    It's like going buy a puppy. And take that one who comes itself to you...

    Cool!

    (PS: if You don't mind, make them active, Widget knows what he's talking about. Sorry, if interrupted Your plans)

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