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Thread: A bright idea for yellowed Aquaplas

  1. #46
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    You don't need any pictures

    For the white cones, you get a can of this:



    You carefully mask off the parts of the driver you DO NOT want white

    Steve thinned the "1-2-3" and applied it with a "Purdy" (just a brand name) brush; I use an airbrush, thin the material even more than he did and spray it (and avoid what is essentially scrubbing the cone's surface with a brush)

    For beat up/scratched up black baskets he was just using flat spray paint

  2. #47
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    I'd like to see any cones that have been treated with the 1-2-3. I bought a can and it is very white compared to aquaplas. What should I use to tint and how did you protect front getting on glue or dust cap?

  3. #48
    Senior Member 4343's Avatar
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    Cool What about Green cones?

    Quote Originally Posted by script56 View Post
    I'd like to see any cones that have been treated with the 1-2-3. I bought a can and it is very white compared to aquaplas. What should I use to tint and how did you protect front getting on glue or dust cap?
    Masking tape as described in the beginning of this thread.

    On a related note, has anyone had any luck matching the color of the Heathkit green baskets and cones? I'd like to find a way to turn a black cone, and a silver basket, to that lovely shade of green...
    Mike Scott in SJ, CA
    Drive 'em to the Xmax!

  4. #49
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    I apply other solution, Chinese Ink

    I just discovered this thread, and I revive it to recommend that I used chinese ink, applying two coats.While you apply it with a soft brush - the artistic type -, with a hair dryer you apply heat to the brush strokes, at a low temperature, and with alternating movements, you get it to dry very quickly and you can apply both coats on it. very little time.My LE14Cs were stored in low temperature and high humidity conditions for two years. They had very ugly brown spots. It looked like new, you can see it in the photo. (I also changed the envelopes)If the stains or discoloration are very intense, you can apply more layers until you see that they have disappeared. I agree with those who say that the Mms will not be altered significantly enough for a difference in sound to be heard. The ink applied has a negligible weight.I hope it helps, greetings.
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  5. #50
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by academia50 View Post
    I just discovered this thread, and I revive it to recommend that I used chinese ink, applying two coats.While you apply it with a soft brush - the artistic type -, with a hair dryer you apply heat to the brush strokes, at a low temperature, and with alternating movements, you get it to dry very quickly and you can apply both coats on it. very little time.My LE14Cs were stored in low temperature and high humidity conditions for two years. They had very ugly brown spots. It looked like new, you can see it in the photo. (I also changed the envelopes)If the stains or discoloration are very intense, you can apply more layers until you see that they have disappeared. I agree with those who say that the Mms will not be altered significantly enough for a difference in sound to be heard. The ink applied has a negligible weight.I hope it helps, greetings.
    Thanks for the tip. I'll have to see if this product is available in USA.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  6. #51
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Excellent tip... thanks for sharing!

    Very nice looking results by the way.


    Widget

  7. #52
    Senior Member martin2395's Avatar
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    Hydrogen peroxide makes the 123/2213s white as snow again, I wouldn't bother with any kind of additional coating! I've done it with peroxide on multiple 4311/4312 sets. Even the cheap 'watery' one from the drug store worked, just put the speaker on it's magnet and brush some HP on the cone, then let it sit in the sun for an hour or two (it needs UV to activate). It may need more applications (I did it 2x) but it was perfectly white afterwards.
    It's a quite magical process, at first it seems like nothing happens, then you come back to it after a few hours and it's perfectly white.

    Vintage computer folks use this technique to whiten yellowed plastics on old computers. I even had some success whitening NS10M woofers with peroxide but I didn't see that they had a green ink stamp with batch/code on the back of the cone and it soaked through to the front

  8. #53
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCCA View Post
    Thanks for the tip. I'll have to see if this product is available in USA.
    This is a product that you will find in art supply stores. Buy a small, soft brush. The best known is black, many people are unaware that it is also manufactured in white, green, etc. There are many manufacturers, in fact, the image I attached before was taken from the Web, but I used another brand. I have seen it on Amazon, but in 250 ml. It's too much, buy the smallest one, with 50 ml. you will have plentyPS: You have to be careful and have a good hand not to stain the foam envelopes, that would be an extra problem that is more difficult to solve because it will absorb it. If you're not in a hurry, put the hair dryer aside and do a hand job per day. You must take out the speaker, place it face up, place a wooden crossbar from side to side to support your hand and paint well "stretched" hands completing the circles of the cone. This way you will not accumulate dye in the same place. Good luck if you decide, you must have a good pulse, practice first on the corrugated cardboard of the boxes.

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    Excellent tip... thanks for sharing!Very nice looking results by the way.Widget
    For nothing, thank you !

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