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Thread: Opinions wanted: 240Ti vs L-150A

  1. #46
    Senior Member DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagfinn View Post
    It's one of those (whatstheword), I record digital only but prefer to listen to music from vinyl... . But really, quality of mastering for CD varies a lot, some is good, some not so good...
    I'd wager to say that comes down to the cartridge used on the turntable.. And those get crazy out of hand cost wise. I've got an Ortofon blue, and that's right at the cap of what I'm going to spend considering how little I use my TT. I feel fortunate though, that I bought my Denon DP 42F right before the hipsters made them cool again and thus increased the entry price.

    CD quality does indeed vary, so too does vinyl pressing. My older friends would always say they exchanged lots of records two or three times due to bad pressings. Mixed bag for sure. What I like most about records is how intimate/involved the experience is. You really end up looking at the jackets, the record and most of all, engaging with the people around you. Hunting down second hand records is fun too. All of the digital music I mess with I do with lossless formats as well. Can't help the digital music I already have though. Although I can't always tell the difference, especially on modern MP3 recordings. When I do, I usually notice a higher noise floor and more fuzz in the upper registers.

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    I'd wager to say that comes down to the cartridge used on the turntable.. And those get crazy out of hand cost wise. I've got an Ortofon blue, and that's right at the cap of what I'm going to spend considering how little I use my TT. I feel fortunate though, that I bought my Denon DP 42F right before the hipsters made them cool again and thus increased the entry price.

    CD quality does indeed vary, so too does vinyl pressing. My older friends would always say they exchanged lots of records two or three times due to bad pressings. Mixed bag for sure. What I like most about records is how intimate/involved the experience is. You really end up looking at the jackets, the record and most of all, engaging with the people around you. Hunting down second hand records is fun too. All of the digital music I mess with I do with lossless formats as well. Can't help the digital music I already have though. Although I can't always tell the difference, especially on modern MP3 recordings. When I do, I usually notice a higher noise floor and more fuzz in the upper registers.
    I'm afraid I fell down the cartridge/tonearm/turntable rabbit hole some time ago, and secured a diverse stock of NOS styli and vintage cartridges. But I agree, a good nude, stylus is a must. Personally I use only linecontacts in some form, like ML or shibata. A Paratrace is also on it way from ESCO .

    But indeed, prices are rising and vinyl is getting more popular. I belive in 2019 vinyl beat CD in sales total (not units), according to RIAA.

    Quality of vinyl is also a big problem, and more so now than it used to be . Seems some arts were lost during the last decades. Even Original Master audiophile pressings can be totally c***. Little Feat Dixie Chicken, for instance. Original pressing is much better. Same with (new) Tom Waits 180g remasters. Surface errors, piano distortion... (since my 197x copies does not show this distortion, I'm certain it's in the vinyl). Disappointing.

  3. #48
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    M2 waveguide will be about 400mm once trimmed. Of course theat will mess with your grille mounting.
    Note also there are some expensive bits and bobs needed to make it all fit together. Your neighbour Rob had some of those made. He is a serial trimmer so will be able to give you exact dimensions and a go -no go on the project.
    It is this extra complication that inclined me towards the PT 1010 waveguide.

    Cheers Mac

  4. #49
    Senior Member Odd's Avatar
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    If you want to build an M2 clone, it is better to have "trestokken" make new boxes.

    I have no connection to "trestokken"
    43XX (2235-2123-2450-2405-CC 3155)5235-4412-4406-4401-L250-18Ti-L40-S109 Aquarius lV-C38 (030) 305P MkII

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    Hmm, 400mm is within dimensions of the box - I could actually do it...

    But I agree the PTH1010-1 looks much better, is easier and is probably cheaper to implement. Some mention crossing at 900hz as possibly too low for the PTH1010-1 waveguide? How high could the LE14H go? Would e.g. 1.2khz work? Also I've already forgotten why not use the D2430K driver from the M2 ...? Quite a few things to get my head around still...

    As it is, they keep sounding better to me as I play them, so no urgency .

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Odd View Post
    If you want to build an M2 clone, it is better to have "trestokken" make new boxes.

    I have no connection to "trestokken"
    Thanks, Odd! "Trestokken" looks both high quality and a safe way to go to make a clone... . Nice to know about, from time to time I need parts made for projects requiring tools too expensive and large to own myself.

  7. #52
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagfinn View Post
    Hmm, 400mm is within dimensions of the box - I could actually do it...

    But I agree the PTH1010-1 looks much better, is easier and is probably cheaper to implement. Some mention crossing at 900hz as possibly too low for the PTH1010-1 waveguide? How high could the LE14H go? Would e.g. 1.2khz work? Also I've already forgotten why not use the D2430K driver from the M2 ...? Quite a few things to get my head around still...

    As it is, they keep sounding better to me as I play them, so no urgency .
    Well , if you were to go down the path as iI suggested with the 1010 , the cutout for that waveguide would be within the cutout required for the M2 waveguide.. Cost of making that error of judgement ( if it was one ) $66 plus shipping per box.

    PTH 1010 can be used with 2450 /2 / 3 with sl diaphragm and or D2 2430K as in M2

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by macaroonie View Post
    Well, if you were to go down the path as iI suggested with the 1010 , the cutout for that waveguide would be within the cutout required for the M2 waveguide.. Cost of making that error of judgement ( if it was one ) $66 plus shipping per box.

    PTH 1010 can be used with 2450 /2 / 3 with sl diaphragm and or D2 2430K as in M2


    Appreciate your help, mac (even if you lead me into temptation ). On paper several of the CD drivers looks usable and good, I'm trying to understand why some may be better than others... 2450SL vs the D2 2430K, for instance? I saw a test plot for pth-1010, (could have been first version), with 476Mg drivers which looked very impressive. As they did on M2 horns (Thanks Rob!). (I recognize several usernames I also see on diyaudio here, hi again everyone!).

    As I'm educating myself, I happily found the FR plot for the LE14H woofer, so I know a little more what to expect from it as far as extension upwards, and what kind of flexibilty I have as far as crossing. LF extension is good for me . Subs will never be on my list.

    Edit: of course the woofer is LE14H-1, attachment irrelevant. At least I know where to search.
    Last edited by Dagfinn; 01-25-2021 at 04:42 PM. Reason: error

  9. #54
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    Name:  JBL LE14H-1_page_3_fr.jpg
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    LE14H-1, thanks Giskard. Looks good .

  10. #55
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    Ok, this is becoming a different thread, I should make new thread under DIY for the continuation. Step one will be servicing tweeters one by one, so I know they deliver to their potential with no goo or fragments interfering. I have aquired a spare I will attempt first, as educational and backup, just in case. I don't want to be without music while I do the job either.

    Should I proceed with rebuild, it will be by DSP and active solution. Also some non-destructive options have been suggested, but all are DSP based. I found a UMIK-1 locally, a useful tool I hope.

    So procedure will be now be measure, restore 044Tis, remeasure & evaluate result .

    Thanks again for all feedback !

  11. #56
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagfinn View Post
    Ok, this is becoming a different thread, I should make new thread under DIY for the continuation. Step one will be servicing tweeters one by one, so I know they deliver to their potential with no goo or fragments interfering. I have aquired a spare I will attempt first, as educational and backup, just in case. I don't want to be without music while I do the job either.
    Did you already acquire the foam "plug" and, if so, what are you using and where did you source it?
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCCA View Post
    Did you already acquire the foam "plug" and, if so, what are you using and where did you source it?
    Hi, sorry for the late answer, I've had a stay in hospital for some planned surgery, but recovering now.

    I haven't got the plug yet, and don't know what to use. Perhaps look for a similar part, and work from there. I'd like to use something long lasting, but any more than that I don't know. I'm hoping to find some suggestions here to go by...

    But, I've gotten a UMIK-1, so now I'll learn REW, little by little .

  13. #58
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    Ok, after being lost in the Postal system, the 044Ti arrived today, and I just couldn't wait .

    Name:  044ti_disassemble.jpg
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    It got a sqeeze during shipping, poor packaging


    Name:  044ti_disassembled.jpg
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Size:  75.8 KB

    But I managed, it came out looking nice . Next is cleaning up, and then finding replacement pad. The old material is gong to dust when touched, so really good to get rid of.
    Thanks to grumpy and seawolf for this http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...t=044Ti+repair

  14. #59
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagfinn View Post
    Ok, after being lost in the Postal system, the 044Ti arrived today, and I just couldn't wait :

    It got a sqeeze during shipping, poor packaging

    But I managed, it came out looking nice . Next is cleaning up, and then finding replacement pad. The old material is gong to dust when touched, so really good to get rid of.
    Thanks to grumpy and seawolf for this http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...t=044Ti+repair
    looks nice ...
    for foam, I just went through old packing boxes and found some pliable, but firm open cell foam that was older, but didn't seem to deteriorate at all.

    the hardest part (for me) was getting all those blades inserted and hoping "the plinth" would not break or crack ... seems like you did fine. .... I like to mark 'the plinth" and the mag with a marker in the same spot when separating so to get correct (original) orientation when reassembling.

    OH, and don't forget to blow out (with compressed air) the gap , sure some foam dust got in there ... can see in your pic.
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  15. #60
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
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    Good catch Dagfinn

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