[QUOTE=Challenger604;432466]Hi there,
I just finished my 4333’s and did the Nelson Pass crossover.
I still have my 55’s but the 33’s are for my living room.
you will like it. Still very impressive speakers.
I hope you’re well!
Still good and looking thru some of my stuff the other day I still have those connectors I was going to send to you, send me your address again.
Anybody know where I can get the L pads for the 4333's?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153892665941Originally Posted by quindecima
O.K. I am going to take my DIY 4355's apart for the 4333 build. I will have a pair of 2235's, & 2202's and a very nice cross made by a well-known member here who I am certain does not want me to mention his name. If you wish to see pics email me.
The 4333 is what it is.
Compared to the 4355 it’s not as accurate or as sensitive.
If you only play pop or rock it’s fine.
The main problem is the mis match of the woofer and the horn dispersion at the crossover point. Jbl point this out in the 4430/4435 white paper.
If you want a superior loudspeaker buy the 2344/A bum horn (from Jamin Jersey) and re-do the front panel. If your keen remove the mass ring in the 2235H to convert it to a 2234H. This is a game changer in terms of mid range definition and a few dB more sensitivity.
Add a few dB of boost at 30 hertz and you have a very nice monitor that has served the recording industry for decades. This design is arguably better than the 4355 where very high output levels are not required. The networks are available on the www.
Might want to hang on to those 2202s if youre thinking of getting some 2344 horns. The 2202 crossed in to a 2344 with the one inch driver of your choice ( I’ve use 2426s for years ) is imho a much better mid band combination than the transition from a 15 to a one inch driver. Crossing out of your bass driver below 400 hz also means not modulating your mid frequencies on a cone that might be trying to produce 30 hz at the same time.
It escapes me why you would go to a three-way 4333 when you could fit a near-clone four-way 4344mk II into the same floor space using only components from your 4355 build, though I would get some 2123 cores and have them rebuilt to use in place of the 2202. Nelson Pass, the designer of the oft-mentioned crossover for the 4333 has himself gone to a four-way--a pair of 4343's.
Or you could sell all of your 2235's and use LE14-3's and go smaller.
I'm just suggesting the midrange accuracy of a four-way may be missed.
"Audio is filled with dangerous amateurs." --- Tim de Paravicini
O.K. I guess I wasn't thinking ahead enough, I can do that. Lead me to the NP cross please or since I am using the same components (almost) can I use the one I have?
I totally respect your opinion Ian but removing the mass ring means a re-cone, I would have to give that a lot of thought.
Actually only removal of the dust cap and replace.
All the options are entirely up to you and what you feel comfortable with.
My suggestion was to keep it was simple as possible. The idea of something like a 4 way is a lot of work and it’s complicated.
I heard a pair of bi amped 4331 monitors at Greg Timber’s Biamped with stock drivers using one of my analogue active crossovers. We were quite impressed after some tweaks to the in room response.
They were up on drink crates which really lifted the performance.
If your the thinking type of audio buff your diy efforts can be well rewarded.
Some of Greg Timber’s most revered systems started out in his garage. Greg’s garage is one of the most well equipped l have seen.
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In the diy space there is scope of all manner of variations and quality horns available by people such as Joseph Crowe Audio.
It comes back to what you want and the effort your preparing put into such a project.
If you are using the redrawn GT/Giskard/widget 3155 crossover, that is the crossover Giskard/4313b used in his 4345 build with 2123, large format treble on 2311 and 2405 uhf. If you use a 2235 and 2123, you would use the 4344 box. If you keep the 2202, you'd need to expand the cabinet to account for the larger dog box.
"Audio is filled with dangerous amateurs." --- Tim de Paravicini
The thing is will that size enclosure fit in with the down sized situation and WAF?
This is where l admire JBLs marketing department.
Big enclosure and lots of cables is not going to impress everyone.
Perhaps a small mid bass enclosure and a sub would make more sense.
No need for a recone. The mass ring lives at the the top of the voice coil former just under the dust cap.
To remove the dust cap using an xacto knife with a fresh blade cut round the glue line just below the top edge of the glue line. Continue all the way around but leave about 1/4" as a hinge.
You will see the mass ring right there. A little MEK applied with a small artists paint brush ( sparingly ) will soften the glue holding the MR in place. Its a good idea to apply some painters blue tape around the inside of the coil former where it meets the pole piece. Once you get that released blow out any debris , you shouldnt really have any and sit the dust cap back down where it used to be. A couple of little dabs of CA to hold it in place and then you can repair the glue line with Black Moyen glue.
Job done , if you are careful you will see no evidence of your theft.
When you get that bad boy out and have it in your hand ask yourself the question , how on earth can that dead weight play at the handover frequency to the 800Hz horn.. It can't.
Don't be afraid of the cone BTW they are much sturdier than you imagine. They have to be pumping back and forth as they do.
Thanks for the detailed post! That should be a no-brainer.
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