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Thread: DIY C36 Baffle Assembly Suggestions

  1. #1
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    DIY C36 Baffle Assembly Suggestions

    Hello,

    I've been building a pair of C36s and am getting ready to drop in the baffle and glue the bracing. From what I have researched, it looks like the baffle is held (unglued) in the box, by the bracing, which is glued. That seems weird to me. I was wondering if someone could help me understand how the baffle board is actually fixed in the box? Totally open to suggestions... Glue, Screws or anything else!

    Thank you in advance for any advice. I really look forward to hearing what everyone has to say : )

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  2. #2
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    Hi monoscott,

    Welcome aboard the Lansing Heritage.

    RE "... the baffle is held (unglued) in the box, by the bracing, which is glued. That seems weird to me."

    Sounds weird to me also. I'm not familiar with C36 plan details, but in my speaker building religion all panels and bracing are glued AND screwed, no less than this for maximum rigidity and to avoid any panel vibration or rattle from a brace.

    For the unglued baffle to be held by the bracing then i assume the baffle is screwed to "bracing" from either the outside (wouldn't look good) or better from the inside (baffle would look much better since no screws seen).

    Another baffle installation possibility i can imagine from your reading might mean to "sandwhich" or squeeze the baffle perimeter between cleats on each side of it? This would imply cleats somewhat inside around front box perimeter, then put the baffle in place, followed by cleats again around box perimeter. Not sure that makes sense in view of all the thickness these will add, plus probably a speaker grille hiding all this...

    Might have an idea to "salvage" the box but don't know some dimensions to see if it would fly.

    Do you make a distinction between cleats and bracing? I do. In my book cleats are used either to reinforce cab joints or to attach (screw) something to it like a baffle. Bracing for me is for panel reinforcement only, i.e. to prevent their vibration from bass sounds. So when you talk about bracing which are you talking about?

    The minimum bracing would be a front to back and a left to right brace midway or so between the largest panels using 2X2" or 2X3" lumber (similar to a cross).

    Nice cabinet outside finish by the way. Regards,

    Richard

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    Hi Richard,

    I cant thank you enough for the wonderful reply to my question. I'm with your opinion that "all panels and bracing are glued AND screwed". So after reading your reply, that is the road I took. I used the information you shared in combination with some C36 (with the back off) google images, and my C36 (almost) finished assembly is pictured below. Note: the dampening material is not permanently glued in yet.

    Also, In my original question, I did not distinguish between cleats and bracing but I feel like that is a great practice to follow moving forward. I am also going to take your advise and add the minimum bracing from front to back and left to right.

    Thanks again for the great information, Richard.

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  4. #4
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    Hi Scott,

    Nice work on the cleats. Now that i see how it looks inside the cab with woofer installed a full-length front to back brace is less desireable here since it won't be midway or so (proper bracing usually divides a panel in two equal size sections). Here's what i suggest instead.

    Put a vertical brace (e.g. 2X2") length wise on the back panel from top to bottom or so (glued and screwed). Put the left to right brace in place midway, make sure this one is stronger like 2X3" lumber because it will be the key one with what follows.

    Now with a piece of 2X2" midway join the back panel brace to the left to right brace (tight fit between the two and glued). So it will look like T shape bracing at that end. But they will all be linked together with the larger 2X3" one giving most of the strength which is good.

    This means the L/R brace is basically providing hold and preventing panel vibration for three large panels. This is a nice compromise when baffle space doesn't really allow having an effective full-length front to back brace.

    Simple to do and works well in the present circumstances. Regards,

    Richard

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    monoscott,

    I have a pair of C38 cabinets which essentially are C36 while lying on a Mies daybed......the baffles are glued, but the grilles slide in from the bottom and are wedged in place.

    Nice work on the cabinets. What do you use to sharpen the Stanley low angle block plane?

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    Hey bedrock602,

    Thanks for for reply and mentioning the grilles! Its funny, I didn't plan on making grilles for the boxes but literally the same day I finished the project, I treated my wife and I to an apartment cleaning service (because I was making such a mess). Well I bet you can guess what the cleaning crew did to the dust caps on the d130s... I was able to undo most of the damage but still have a visual reminder that my next step is to make grilles! When I started the project, I was unaware that the grilles slide up from the bottom so I never cut a slot for them to do so. I will probably just make some simple wood frames and wrap them in the proper material. When all said and done they just be pushed over the front of the baffle and attached with velcro.

    The speakers are pictured below in my small apartment...

    Also a side note... My wife commented to me " When you play music through the JBLs, I love the songs so much; but when I play the same songs in my car, I don't get the same feeling from the music "

    As far as the Stanley 60 1/2. I don't have any really nice water stones or anything like that. I use a Rockler Honing Guide and different grits of sandpaper on a thick plate of glass. Id love some nice water stones but until I get a house with a garage, I've gotta keep the tool count low : ) Do you collect hand tools yourself?

    Scott

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  7. #7
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    Hi Scott,

    Very nice set-up you have! Sorry to hear about those dustcaps.

    Here is a link to some grill cloths samples that are similar to what JBL used in the 50's and 60's for the "C" enclosures...

    https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...r-grill-cloths


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    btw, collecting old Stanley tools has been a passion since I found my first Bedrock 602 plane in a yard sale. I used it regularly and took it from job to job banging around in my toolbox until I discovered ebay and found out how much it was worth. Now it sits proudly on a shelf next to countless others

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    Thanks for the link Bedrock602!

    I ordered the sample pack and am having a really hard time deciding. I'm leaning more towards the fender style.. Maybe gold?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bedrock602 View Post
    Hi Scott,

    Very nice set-up you have! Sorry to hear about those dustcaps.

    Here is a link to some grill cloths samples that are similar to what JBL used in the 50's and 60's for the "C" enclosures...

    https://www.tubesandmore.com/product...r-grill-cloths


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by monoscott View Post
    Thanks for the link Bedrock602!

    I ordered the sample pack and am having a really hard time deciding. I'm leaning more towards the fender style.. Maybe gold?
    Gold looks good or the one on the far left.

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