Anyone have any experience reconing the LE20 tweeter in the LE14C coaxial speaker? I can't figure out how to do it.
Thanks,
Eric M.
Anyone have any experience reconing the LE20 tweeter in the LE14C coaxial speaker? I can't figure out how to do it.
Thanks,
Eric M.
Here's a new one .
OK , If your driver looks like this the wax seals conceal the heads of screws , since there is no other obvious fixture I would set about removing the screen mesh and then see what you have. I suspect that the pleated suspension spider will need removed.
Lets see a pic of what you have once the mesh is off.
Here's LE20's bare. The inner 3 screws look like they coincide with the wax seals and the mesh trim ring. I suspect that the outer flange may have been reduced for the LE14c. Or not ??
It may be that it sits under the pleated spider allowing jointing on to the magnet assembly.
If this is the case the spider will need to be removed.
MEK will dissolve the adhesive but you need to be sparing as it will dissolve other adhesive joints as well.
This is how far I got before realizing I need help. I removed the screen and cut out the cone. I have not removed the inner black spider on the exterior of the cone, but can pull it back a bit to see what's going on under it. Not much, I see the wires that connect to the outside of the LE20 housing and that's about it. It looks like there is a space between the LE20 housing and the magnet of the LE14 but I can't find any screws holding it in nor can I put it out. I'm not even sure if the LE20 is suppose to come out as a unit, but if it's to be reconed, it has to. I was really hoping for a You Tube video showing it being removed! No such luck. If I figure this out, I'm going to post one up for the next guy trying to figure this out.
Thanks,
Eric M.
How are the tweeter leads brought out to the terminals on the frame? That has to be a key factor when you re-cone. How do the tinsel leads attach to the tweeter VC??
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
As a general rule anything that has been assembled can be dismantled , all you need to know is the sequence and the materials involved.
I think you need to dissolve the black spider off at the outer edge.
Q tips & MEK bit by bit work your way around. Might take a while but it won't mess up the white cone coating.
Once off you should have a better view of whats goin on.
Just go round the edge of the spider dabbing MEK on to the outer edge of the spider. The MEK will wick through and dissolve the adhesive.
As it comes loose i would use toothpicks to hold the edge oway from the adhesive line to stop it sticking back down .
You might be right. But I can't see what I'd do after that move. There isn't any sort of screws under that black spider, I'd hate to risk damaging it if It doesn't need to be removed. I'm pretty sure that one can't be replaced.
I'm really hoping someone will see this who has done it before and will give directions. Like you said, if it went together, it should come apart .... just need t figure out how!
This process desperately needs a video. I bet it's simple ... just can't figure it out
Well the installation of the LE20 may well take place before the installation of the bass cone. The final piece to be installed would then be the outer spider.
Having said that in general ( again ) JBL were pretty good at facilitating servicability.
Maybe not in this case.
Still think you gotta get that spider off.
Q Tips , MEK , dab it on to the outer rim of the spider , it will wick through to the adhesive. Once you have a bit released use tooth picks to keep it apart and move on round. Have a little fan running to blow the fumes away from you.
Yes, good point. The leads go from their terminals, through the woofer (just like the low frequency leads do) but pass over the voice coil and attach to 2 terminals on the tweeter housing. On the inside of the housing there are 2 solder pads (opposite side of the terminals) that the leads from the voice coil solder to. I can't figure out how you would connect the leads with out removing the tweeter. The other thing I didn't see when removing the cone, was the spider. There was some sort of foam on the underside of the cone that may have acted like a spider. Hard to tell since I could not see before removing the cone.
I may call Simply Speakers on Monday and ask to talk to the guy who does all their reconing videos.
Anyone else have any experience with these?
Thanks,
Here this might help. Do a Google image search
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_LE20-25.htm
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
Thanks,
Both the link and your pictures help. Did your JBL cone kit shown in the pictures come attached to the metal plate making this sort of like a diaphragm which you just drop in and screw in place?
Macaroonie may be right, I need to remove the outer spider to access all this. I just can't see the screws under the spider.
Hello
Unfortunately that's not my kit. I am also wondering how the tweeter is attached the the Le-14. Normally the LE-14A has a vented pole piece. This appears to be blocked by a solid label. I wonder if there is/are a single/multiple screw to anchor the tweeter in place. All the older 075/076/077 had the retaining screw for the phase plugs under the label. To change the diaphragm you had to remove the label get access to the screw. Food for thought!
Good luck glad they helped.
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
I haven't done one in the last 20 years. The replacement part from the factory was the a preassembled cone/voice coil/felt suspension on the cast aluminum mounting frame. Remove/replace was considerably simpler than rebuilding with new soft parts.
My aftermarket supplier has the parts listed, but I have not needed to rebuild one. It would require an LE20 complete core to use as an assembly jig. I have done a few LE25 tweeters with the loose, and I can tell you, it's a challenge due to the diminutive size of the parts.
In the case of the LE14C, I'd need the original assembly in total to attempt a rebuild.
Edgewound...JBL Pro Authorized...since 1988
Upland Loudspeaker Service, Upland, CA
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