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Thread: D130F sn-5843 8-16ohm

  1. #1
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    D130F sn-5843 8-16ohm

    D130F sn-5843 8-16ohm

    Just picked up this project off Ebay $82.21 total. D130F Serial 5843. Does that tell us anything? The aluminum brand tag say 8-16ohm. I guess winding was'nt all that accurate and they gave a range? I'm going to buy a paper cone, 4ohm VC, aluminum dust cap, spider, and tinsel leads off TedWeber.com I bought a glue kit off Simply Speakers Ebay store already. Cost $27 shipped but I want to do this right. Believe me I debated just using glues I already have but weighed out the price of one of these in working shape vs this beat beauty, I decided to spend. The cork gasket came off nicely, I'll reuse it. I already took the screws out and separated the magnet bell from the basket. It came to me with tape over the VC gap. When I pulled the tape off I noticed someone put epoxy in about two inches of the gap length. I got mad and thought I got beat on Ebay again but after and hour of digging in there with various blades I got it cleaned out, like superbly cleaned out that I said I need to post and tell some other speaker heads the good news. This D130F will play again. I plan to clean the basket tomorrow and then Ill post some picks.

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  2. #2
    Senior Member edgewound's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roastalot View Post
    D130F sn-5843 8-16ohm

    Just picked up this project off Ebay $82.21 total. D130F Serial 5843. Does that tell us anything? The aluminum brand tag say 8-16ohm. I guess winding was'nt all that accurate and they gave a range? I'm going to buy a paper cone, 4ohm VC, aluminum dust cap, spider, and tinsel leads off TedWeber.com I bought a glue kit off Simply Speakers Ebay store already. Cost $27 shipped but I want to do this right. Believe me I debated just using glues I already have but weighed out the price of one of these in working shape vs this beat beauty, I decided to spend. The cork gasket came off nicely, I'll reuse it. I already took the screws out and separated the magnet bell from the basket. It came to me with tape over the VC gap. When I pulled the tape off I noticed someone put epoxy in about two inches of the gap length. I got mad and thought I got beat on Ebay again but after and hour of digging in there with various blades I got it cleaned out, like superbly cleaned out that I said I need to post and tell some other speaker heads the good news. This D130F will play again. I plan to clean the basket tomorrow and then Ill post some picks.

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    Best of luck with your rebuild.

    The only way to make sure a speaker in that condition is going to last after a recone is to remove the top plate from motor...which will discharge the magnet by at least 50% from it's already somewhat discharged state...and thoroughly clean all debris, metal chips, and corrosion out, replace the top plate and have the magnet recharged.

    Reconing these is not as easy as it looks, and getting the details right takes some experience. I've had many customers send me the speaker after one or two unsuccessful attempts and 3 times the cost of having it done right once. Getting the dome installed on an aftermarket kit of loose parts is critical to get it to sound right.

    That all said...have fun with your project! Hope it works out!
    Edgewound...JBL Pro Authorized...since 1988
    Upland Loudspeaker Service, Upland, CA

  3. #3
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    How would I get the top plate off, heat and prying? Is it an absolute must to get the spider ledge and surround ledge clean? They used some serious adhesive on there. Cant do much with a razor blade. Tried 60 grit sand paper, it just seemed to smooth it. That's when I thought, why not just sand it smooth then adhere the new spider and paper surround right over it?

    Here's how my VC gap is looking, pretty clean but it does need a little more work. I blew 100psi air in there and keep getting more dust and metallic particles showing up. Then I use some back rolled tape to fish the debris out.

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