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Thread: Yet anther DIY 4344 project

  1. #1
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    Yet anther DIY 4344 project

    hello, the plan is to build a 4344 the DIY way, the component list is 2405, 375 + wood horn, 2123 mid and 2235H with two passives.

    The problem is I'm not a wood worker period, therefore I prefer have the sawing performed at nears home depot. To get started, does a forum member have the enclosure layout which to parse the 4*8 participle board.

    How many sheets are required and what is the thickness?
    Does someone have source for the foilcal.



    thanks

  2. #2
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum!

    Sounds like a great project, but not a simple project to tackle if you are a newbie and especially if you are not an accomplished woodworker.

    When you say, two passives, are you referring to the networks, or passive radiators?


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    Thanks for the welcome, I been a long time lurker.

    I don't have the patience to cut wood, but marvel at what others on the forum have created. Will see how this plays out.
    In the meantime, each speaker will utilize two passive radiators in a seal enclosure driven by a plate amp.

    I thought about creating a 4345 monster, but the size of a 10cft enclosure is a show stopper.

    Btw , are the 4344 CAD file available

  4. #4
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    I can't help but I am a bit confused:

    How is a 4344 with TWO passive radiators in each box smaller than a 4345? And how can even one passive radiator work in a sealed compartment, much less two?? It's a push-me-pull-you proposition. Sealed compartment with a woofer, maybe, but why two PRs and what size would they be? Better question might be why any PRs at all. I would think stand-alone subs might be a better solution . . . if you think the 2235s won't cut it.

    I think we may have a semantic issue: How do you define a passive radiator and why would they need a plate amp? Do you mean subs in a separate enclosure driven by a plate amp? That's what I'm guessing.

    All the best with your project.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  5. #5
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    Smile

    When using a 2235H, I prefer the sound quality of passive radiator over a ported box.

    The plate amp will drive the 2235h and actively crossed over to the 2123H (slope and crossover pt to be determined)

    The information stated below is what I remember (Dickerson loud speaker design or internet lore) For sub-woofer application, the passive needs to displace twice the volume of air as the main driver (Assume identical suspension) . The Box volume calculation for the port and passive radiator are identical, for a 2235H aprox 5 cubic feet. The passives are JBL PR15 (foam surrounds).

    The end results will be a DIY design similar to the classic 43XX, but with the tonal qualities which I deam important.

    I considered a single sub1500 or two 2235H or a single 2245 per box, but decided against all three. Any advice in locating a CAD file, I have access to AutoCad and Sketchup.

    thanks

  6. #6
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    I am not sure if 4343 or 4344 CAD files of the cabinet designs have ever been posted here. These are not designs that I have studied of closely followed, but even if they have been, it seems you are drifting far enough into custom DIY territory that I’m not sure how useful they would be to you.

    I understand that a properly set up passive radiator design will use the same box volume for a given tuning, however since you need to locate the extra 15” radiator, the cabinet and it’s bracing will need to be altered, possibly significantly.

    On a separate topic, you mentioned getting the panels cut near Home Depot. I guess you are planning on purchasing your raw material there. In general they do not offer cabinet grade material like Baltic birch plywood and 1” MDF. Even the 3/4” MDF that I have seen at HD isn’t particularly of high quality, but this may vary from store to store.


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  7. #7
    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    It's not clear from your post that you mean to have the wood cut at Home Depot or not. Just in case that is what you meant, I'll share that I once had that as the starting point of a plan. It seemed like a good plan at first. Sorry to step on your dream. It didn't work. Those large panel saws at Home Depot will not give you panels that are square. Not even close. The parts won't fit together. You can have the wood cut into rough sections there and then start trimming until you can make some that are square, but much patience is needed. Also, they don't have any nice wood there, as Widget mentioned.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Don C View Post
    It's not clear from your post that you mean to have the wood cut at Home Depot or not. Just in case that is what you meant, I'll share that I once had that as the starting point of a plan. It seemed like a good plan at first. Sorry to step on your dream. It didn't work. Those large panel saws at Home Depot will not give you panels that are square. Not even close. The parts won't fit together. You can have the wood cut into rough sections there and then start trimming until you can make some that are square, but much patience is needed. Also, they don't have any nice wood there, as Widget mentioned.
    Hello Don, some that are square, means a mess up. In that case is it possible that the Sheet be ripped into long sections accurately at home depot then squared up at home using a circular saw?

    I have access to a table saw but the table is to small to handle a 4*8 sheet.

    thanks for sharing your insights

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    Senior Member Don C's Avatar
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    I'm in the same situation, small table saw, no use for large sheets. You can have the sheets cut into 4x4 sheets, and then have those cut again to 2x4 sheets. Then when the wood is at home start checking for square corners with a framing square, if they are good, mark them with a pencil to save that corner. If it turns out like my project, the only square corners you'll have will be the factory cut corners, and those were a problem due to shelf wear. It turns into a lot of work.

  10. #10
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    With a large carpenter’s square and a quality straightedge, you can make this work. 30-40 years ago before I was able to buy a proper table saw, I bought an 8’ extruded aluminum straightedge with integral clamps and used it to build dozens of speakers. As Don mentioned, it is tedious and slow going, but it can be done.

    The one I bought is long out of production, but is similar to this one from Rockler.

    https://www.rockler.com/52-to-104-lo...SABEgKC5PD_BwE


    You've got a lot of work in front of you, but the journey is half the fun!


    Widget

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    With a large carpenter’s square and a quality straightedge, you can make this work. 30-40 years ago before I was able to buy a proper table saw, I bought an 8’ extruded aluminum straightedge with integral clamps and used it to build dozens of speakers. As Don mentioned, it is tedious and slow going, but it can be done.

    The one I bought is long out of production, but is similar to this one from Rockler.

    https://www.rockler.com/52-to-104-lo...SABEgKC5PD_BwE


    You've got a lot of work in front of you, but the journey is half the fun!


    Widget
    The saw dust will be delayed until I look into this matter,
    thanks for the input

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jblgo View Post
    The saw dust will be delayed until I look into this matter,
    thanks for the input
    I sold my table saw but found that Home Depot cut the MDF exactly.. you have to lay out the cuts so all panels with the same dimensions are cut once. I did this with my JBL 4346's this summer with great success...
    Also made the crossovers from Shadow boxes from Micheals Craft Store....

    A little patience and alot of planning and you will be listening in no time.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    JBL 4355 | JBL 4351 | JBL 4425 x 2 | JBL XPL 200 | JBL XPL 160 | JBL 4345

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    Quote Originally Posted by focalguy View Post
    I sold my table saw but found that Home Depot cut the MDF exactly.. you have to lay out the cuts so all panels with the same dimensions are cut once. I did this with my JBL 4346's this summer with great success...
    Also made the crossovers from Shadow boxes from Micheals Craft Store....

    A little patience and alot of planning and you will be listening in no time.
    Hello, precision is the requirement. The plan is to rip the 4*8 in reference to the enclosure depth dimension at home depot. With the final cut defining the panel length possibly with a tool I have.

    The speakers look great! what type of finish is used on the exterior, were they made out of particle board and what was the thickness. Where did you source your emblems

    thanks

  14. #14
    Member focalguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jblgo View Post
    Hello, precision is the requirement. The plan is to rip the 4*8 in reference to the enclosure depth dimension at home depot. With the final cut defining the panel length possibly with a tool I have.

    The speakers look great! what type of finish is used on the exterior, were they made out of particle board and what was the thickness. Where did you source your emblems

    thanks
    the material was 3/4 inch MDF. All sides are locked together via dado's 1/4 inch. the finish was Acrylic white lacquer done for me by a local kitchen refinisher. The emblems were made by me and printed at a local sign shop in vinyl.
    Every city has these shops and can help you.
    JBL 4355 | JBL 4351 | JBL 4425 x 2 | JBL XPL 200 | JBL XPL 160 | JBL 4345

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