Here's a few pics of the horn and dual-throat adaptor. One question I have is, since the horn has already been painted (when it went into the theater in Seattle where it lived all these years until recently), and since it is showing some surface rust - should I mist it with some really good Krylon flat black to keep the rust from spreading? Or leave it for some unknown future collector to deal with? I know the preferred answer, but I'm also a decent painter and can do this with no runs - unlike the theater tech's pain job
You might have noticed the caster plate we built and put under the 30W5 horn. It doesn't actually attach to the original horn, but the 2x2s keep it from sliding off as we move it around the shop. I've since painted the caster plate black, and put together a top plate for the H1505 that sits in the bottom (now the top) of the horn. We had to put it upside down on the caster plate, because the original "bottom" was cut up (butchered, really) by some Navy contractor in 1942 to attach the loft's safety rail assembly to the horn. The top horn plate drops down into that hole and makes it level again with inner boards to keep it from sliding off. Those pictures and the 415 pics have to wait until tomorrow!
I think I'd just leave the horn as is. While it'd look better painted, it wouldn't match the bass bin - it might look like somebody tried to just slap some components together, worn patina on the bass bins and spiffy new horn. Let the collector decide how he wants them to present. Unless you intend to keep it, then just do whatever looks best to you.
Hi JeffW - After looking at the practicalities of even a simple anti-rust job on the H1505, I have to agree with you that it would look too "new", especially on that beat up 30W5. No part job on it for now, and I'll just keep an eye on the rust.
The 30W5 as mentioned was cut up by the Navy contractor tasked with building a safety rail for the loft where the speaker resided. Not quite enough room, so what's the answer? Cut out a notch in that big ugly box messing up my rail project. I may go back to the gym and take that railing off to include with the horn!
This was not a problem for decades, and no one fell out of the loft. The 30W5 sat horizontally on a little raised platform, so there wasn't really a top or bottom. The side cut into is actually the "open" bottom of the cabinet, whereas the top is solid plywood, so whatever horn assembly chosen had a good place to sit.
Fast forward to now, and space requirements in my shop mean I have to do the vertical orientation, and the top became the bottom sitting on the caster plate. I've had a piece of plywood veneer sitting in the shop for literally decades, inherited from my dad. It's a nice piece, but it was 1/2" thick on one end, 5/8" thick on the other. A manufactured oddball that got set aside.
It found its home on this project. Because of the cuts in the 30W5 cabinet, it's about 5/8"lower than it's supposed to be on the face, but the back edge of the framing 2"x4" is only 1/2" above the edge of the side plywood. Voila! I now have a nice level flat top to mount the H1505 on. Sure the veneer with a fresh coat of Danish oil is overkill, but at least it's protected, and well, classy in a weird way.
Note: First couple of pictures were before cleaning the 80 years of dust off - just water and rag, over and over again.
Only five pictures per post, so here we go.
script56 now owns these. I hope he can post a thread with his project and plans for these.
I thought it was pretty strange to see such low DCR on the voice coils, and was worried at first. But wen you look at the schematic, you see the 415s are wired as a 3 ohm load...wow. The VCs still floated very nicely on their phenolic spiders, with no rubbing...
I've never packed artifacts before, so we mounted the drivers on plywood, bagged the serial number tags in little parchment "teabags", and double-boxed them.
I couldn't figure out what if any serial numbers were on the two 515B drivers I picked up. It sure looks like a S/N on the one basket, but there is no such number on the other driver. What do the little marks in the square mean?
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