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Thread: Woofer Clamps

  1. #16
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    I always insert T nuts using screws and a cordless driver.

    Best regards!

  2. #17
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Those nut inserts do work well. Most likely invented by Ikea, they are readily available in the USA at Lowe's and similar stores. Just be careful using them in hardwood and test a proper size pilot hole if you can. The metal they're made of is not the strongest and if forced the tabs that make the slot for the screwdriver can break. I used them in fabricating a worktable/desk for my daughter out of raw maple butcher-block material when attaching some metal supports (from Ikea). Plenty of room for error when using them in MDF or particle board, not so much in hardwood.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  3. #18
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    Yes, but sometimes it's a tough job getting them exactly perpendicular to the surface.

    Best regards!

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kay Pirinha View Post
    Yes, but sometimes it's a tough job getting them exactly perpendicular to the surface.

    Best regards!
    You got a few tricks... Depends on your insert. One is for hardwood and another is for softer woods like MDF.

    The soft ones use Allen keys, the hardwood uses slots usually. Different metals. The latter can be had in brass.

    One is to use a cut off Allen key or flathead bit in the drill press... The size of most baffles will make the task a tough one unless you have a crazy huge press.

    The second option is to find a manageable piece of aluminum or steel block about 2x2" or bigger and drill a hole big enough to clear the outermost thread on the insert (some have a flange) and be deep enough that it holds the insert vertical and perpendicular to the baffle. Kind of like one of them drill blocks or a kreg block.

    I have found numerous sources for clamps. Just need to determine the best source... 16 get expensive with shipping and I may be better off getting the screws and inserts locally to save on shipping.

  5. #20
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    Inserts should be secured

    There are few things more frustrating than when a spiked insert backs out of the wood when unscrewing the driver fastener. They can be secured a few ways- a block of wood behind them, staples on the flange can work well if they're sturdy and deep, or screws if you are okay with "wasted" hardware. Epoxy on the nut is also effective, but care must be taken not to occlude the threads.

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