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Thread: Replacement diaphragm options for 2425J

  1. #1
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Replacement diaphragm options for 2425J

    To preface my question, after ten-years I was finally able to move my 4345s to my new home. Thankfully they are now in a climate-controlled environment but I fear their former high-humidity old (non-air-conditioned) house may have deteriorated one of the 2425s. I began to have a problem getting the HF of one channel to join the party without isolating it as much as possible and jacking up the volume until it would cut in. It did not seem to be related to the L-pad. Now I'm hearing a decided lack of volume and some distortion, compared to the other side. I intend to do a driver swap from left-to-right cabinet just to make sure it isn't the crossover or L-pad, but I'm fairly confident it's the driver.

    If so, what is the best choice for replacement diaphragms for the 2425J? I hear frequent praise for Radians but would value more knowledgeable opinions and experience. For years I've heard that original JBL was the best choice, other then the price. I currently see what look like OE JBL replacements here. Are they authentic? Is the often-heard issue with Mexican-made JBL parts an issue about which I should be concerned? The price seems to be in line with Radians.

    Anyone here in the business that can offer replacements directly to me? I understand there's nothing keeping authorized JBL dealers and repair facilities from selling diaphragms directly to consumers. Is that correct?

    I'm 66 now and still working—six-days this week—so I'll get around to more diagnosis as time and the ability to disrupt the family living space allow. Getting the house-of-our-dreams built after 30-years of planning took close to two-years of my free and hobby time. Now I'm only working on a to-do list.

    Thanks in advance for any advice or experiences.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    I you got sound, the problem is most certainly mechanical. Dust, mould, spider web, etc. Carfully disassemble it and clean it, especially the magentic gap. There are probably youtube videos for how to do it.

    Mårten

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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by more10 View Post
    I you got sound, the problem is most certainly mechanical. Dust, mould, spider web, etc. Carfully disassemble it and clean it, especially the magentic gap. There are probably youtube videos for how to do it.

    Mårten
    Thanks. That was to be my first line of investigation after doing the left-right driver swap to isolate all else. Off to work today, though.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Congratulations on completing and getting into your new house. That's gotta be a great feeling.

    I did try a pair of Radian aluminum diaphragms in my 2425h but ultimately preferred the titanium JBL diaphragms. I felt the upper midrange was better with the aluminum, but the titanium had better top end. My speakers don't have anything above the 2425, so I wanted the top end. With your speakers, the Radian might be a good choice. I'd send you mine to try but they're 8ohm.

  5. #5
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Thanks for the offer!
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    Hi Phil,

    RE: "... I fear their former high-humidity old (non-air-conditioned) house may have deteriorated one of the 2425s.

    I intend to do a driver swap from left-to-right cabinet just to make sure it isn't the crossover or L-pad, but I'm fairly confident it's the driver."


    I'd tend to keep the other failure modes under investigation until the exact cause(s) is/are found.

    It looks to me that two drivers from a pair of speakers being in the same high-humidity environment are likely to develop the same issue with time, though it could be at a different stage on each one for now. Meaning if one has this failure for that reason, the other driver may also have the disease to some extent.

    Used in the same conditions, why would one unit fail and not the other? Any differences that might explain this logically? (e.g. bad solder or wire, in addition to XO or L-Pad parts)

    It seems like a good idea to open the other compression driver as well to assess the situation. After checking the other unit you might decide you need to purchase two diaphragms "while they last", in order to insure long-term peace of mind with the 2425s.

    RE: Amazon/Simply Speakers link

    I dealt with Simply Speakers twice, the last time about 10 days ago, they sent the right things in nice condition and service was fast with no hassles both times.

    Richard

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    I have used the Radian diaphragm in both the 4425s and 4333s. It is a drop in replacement with no issues. The replacement JBL diaphragms that I have used are not exactly a drop in. They will require reaming of the locater hole. Also, the quality of the JBL diaphragms is questionable. I personally think the Radians are excellent sound wise. Per my ears anyway. I did ream a pair of JBL diaphragms for the 2405s in the 4333s. Tested with a frequency generator for rubbing of the V.C. They have been good for a couple of years now, but were a pain in the ass to install. One was bad, however the supplier that I got them from made good and sent a replacement.

  8. #8
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    I'd tend to keep the other failure modes under investigation until the exact cause(s) is/are found.

    It looks to me that two drivers from a pair of speakers being in the same high-humidity environment are likely to develop the same issue with time, though it could be at a different stage on each one for now. Meaning if one has this failure for that reason, the other driver may also have the disease to some extent.

    Used in the same conditions, why would one unit fail and not the other? Any differences that might explain this logically? (e.g. bad solder or wire, in addition to XO or L-Pad parts)

    It seems like a good idea to open the other compression driver as well to assess the situation. After checking the other unit you might decide you need to purchase two diaphragms "while they last", in order to insure long-term peace of mind with the 2425s.

    I dealt with Simply Speakers twice, the last time about 10 days ago, they sent the right things in nice condition and service was fast with no hassles both times.
    Thanks for the info on Simply Speakers. I still worry about the quality of the Mexican JBL replacements.

    Of course I would replace both if I had to replace one. As for humidity, the one in the outside corner of the living room (closest to outside wall, etc.) was in a far more hostile environment. Hard to believe but easily recognized by the walls, floors, and other stuff in proximity.

    Nice to hear the Radians could be a reasonable alternative.

    Thanks
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    Phil,

    RE: "I still worry about the quality of the Mexican JBL replacements."

    JBL original part D16R2425 is $90. at Simply Speakers and made in low-cost Mexico...

    Radian # 1225 diaphragm is $78. on their web site, 8 or 16 ohms, and made in the USA!

    US made cheaper than Mexico manufacturing... Must be pretty fat margin on that Mexico stuff. Have I missed something here?

    Richard

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    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    JBL original part D16R2425 is $90. at Simply Speakers and made in low-cost Mexico...

    Radian # 1225 diaphragm is $78. on their web site, 8 or 16 ohms, and made in the USA!
    Yeah, I'm aware of all that—which is why I'm asking the question about manufacturing quality of the Mexican parts and comparative sound quality of the Radians! The decision is no longer to select Radian as a cheaper replacement, it now comes down to which is "better" in terms of quality of manufacture and characteristics of performance.

    I'd probably be inclined to replace with the original but it's questionable whether or not the current replacement is equivalent to the original, anymore.

    Thanks, all.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

  11. #11
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    I have the Radians in Le85 drivers. I like them. Compared to titanium these should start breaking up att a higher frequency.

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    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    Hi Phil,

    Its possible there is corrosion around the diaphragm screw down contacts in the faulty driver and or debris in the gap. When you get time have a look. The diaphragm may also require centring.

    You might try Edgewood for the diaphragms.

    If on inspection you find the driver needs TLC and were considering another pair of drivers l would talk to Jamin Jersey in CA. Their inventory has always been AAA in my experience.

    http://jamminjersey.com/speakers/jbl/component

    I have not personally used Radian diaphragms yet. On paper they are a drop in replacement. Being Aluminum alloy they will sound a bit different. Less shine or glow in the highs. But you might actually prefer them after a time.

  13. #13
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    Again, thanks for the advice and shared experiences. I plan on swapping left/right and, if it confirms my theory, take the faulty driver apart and document it here with pictures.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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