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Thread: Please help with 128H's in L150A's. :)

  1. #106
    Member DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Back in action!

    Ken (edgewound) contacted me a few weeks later to let me know the speakers were done and so I paid my invoice and waited for some woofs to show up... This past Sunday, they did...

    To recap, I purchased my L150A's without listening to them and found out shortly after hooking them up to my Marantz 4300 that the 128H's had voice coil rub. I ran the gamut with a local reconer, refoamed both woofers which didn't work out (she credited the money spent towards a recone) and then she eventually reconed them with C8R129H recone kits (as reported by edgewound later) which still had the issue and the one woofer failed yet again. At this point I was ready to throw in the towel but a few members on here were kind enough to offer me their services but edgewound was the only one who replied and I sent the woofers to his business, Upland Loudspeaker Service. Originally, we discussed having the woofers custom done with the correct formulation of Aquaplas hand applied by him to factory specs as the recone kit for 128H's wasn't currently available, C8R128H. In the end, life got in the way and JBL released a batch of C8R128H's and that's what edgewound installed and shipped back to me...

    I took the sheets off my L150A's and installed the woofers, unhooked the scab Klipsch Cornwalls and let them play for a minute. Bass response isn't what I remember it being down low but I've heard and even read on here that new surrounds need to break in for awhile and I want to let them do just that before I really push them. But with what I did test out, I think it's safe to say they're fixed! No "Brap!" noise when the woofers come out into the room and no noise whatsoever from them for that matter. Ken did a fantastic job with them and it was well worth the wait. He even dates his stuff! I'm very satisfied with the way they were shipped back to me and the job over all, I didn't have much hope after what I had experienced previously. Needless to say, as long as Ken doesn't mind, I'll happily ship my stuff to him moving forward and he's the first person I will call. On that note, I have noticed that my PR300's look to have been reconed with the improper cone as well. Shouldn't they be black? Aye carumba. Maybe one day those will be the next to be fixed but for now, I want to enjoy these things. Thinking of buying crossovers specific to a L150A and modifying them for biamp use as that's the next route I want to go. I'll make a separate thread for that. Going to try and attach pics!


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  2. #107
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
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    Glad to see you got things sorted out.

    If they've been exposed to sun, the black will fade.


    I recently refoamed a pair of 127H-1 in a set of L80T I gave to a friend a few years ago for some "shop" speakers. I should have inspected them better and run them harder before giving them back. Turns out the spiders were toast as he said one was "popping" and he thought it was the crossover. I believe he was previously running them hard with roasted surrounds. :-(

    I pulled them back out and saw one of the spiders had a small tear/separation from the VC. Had I not been able to find a pair of local C8R127H recone kits, I was going to contact Ken about possibly getting them done. The alternative was to part out the L80T's and help with with a replacement pair of speakers. Unfortunately, the only thing I have left that I might consider letting go would be the pair of L100T's in spaghetti wood veneer I still have. That or a more modern pair of S38II. It just wouldn't be right to use anything else I have left here in his shop (and I'd rather not give him more valuable speakers).

    After cutting out the cones, I could see that there were more cracks in both spiders on both drivers. They were pretty dried out, too weak, and fragile.

    Oddly, while the serial numbers were very close on the recone kits I picked up, the glue in the kits didn't anywhere near match. One (factory sealed) had the old Bostic - expiration 2004, the other (opened) a Moyen 3087 tube - expiration 2019. Makes me think maybe someone replaced the glue in the opened one. Good for me, but I didn't realize the difference until I ran out before getting the dust caps installed so they'll get (dries clear) CPVA that a supplier sends with his surrounds. I've used it before and you can hardly tell it's not black against the black cone and black dustcap. Certainly not something that will get noticed under the grilles sitting 10' up in his shop on top of a mezzanine.

    This adventure is making me rethink replacing the surrounds on my LE14-1's in my 250Ti's instead of having them reconed and to that point, I wouldn't hesitate to use Ken @Upland for that. I've also been watching some of his great videos.


  3. #108
    Member DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Thanks brutal!

    I really can't express how happy I am now that these are back in action flawlessly. Sorry about the L80T's, did you get them back in shape or hand over the L100T's? L100T3's and 240Ti's are on my list of speakers I'd like to demo, as well as XPL-200A's, L220's and ultimately some 4345's. Dreams haha. I envy those 250Ti's of yours as well.

  4. #109
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Thanks brutal!

    I really can't express how happy I am now that these are back in action flawlessly. Sorry about the L80T's, did you get them back in shape or hand over the L100T's? L100T3's and 240Ti's are on my list of speakers I'd like to demo, as well as XPL-200A's, L220's and ultimately some 4345's. Dreams haha. I envy those 250Ti's of yours as well.
    The L80T's are back in action in my friend's shop and he's loving them again. I told him to give them a little time to break in before he puts the coals to them.

    The recone went great and they're back to as factory fresh as I can make them.

    My 250Ti's need a refoam and probably the 044Ti innards have turned to mush by now. They've been sitting idle for a year now since we remodeled and I had to move them.


  5. #110
    Member DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Nice. I'd like to try my hands at a refoam/recone and potentially a tweeter plug refurb.

  6. #111
    Member kmanusa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutal View Post
    Glad to see you got things sorted out.

    ....This adventure is making me rethink replacing the surrounds on my LE14-1's in my 250Ti's instead of having them reconed and to that point, I wouldn't hesitate to use Ken @Upland for that. I've also been watching some of his great videos.
    I sent Ken the LE-14Hs from my 250Tis and he did an outstanding job— replacing surrounds and spiders, gap cleaning, and filter replacement. They should last the rest of my lifetime. I wouldn’t think of going anywhere else.
    Speakers: JBL 250Ti, Martin Logan CLS 1, Kinergetics SW-800; Amps: McIntosh MC-275IV (2), Sunfire 600, Parasound HCA-3500

  7. #112
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutal View Post
    My 250Ti's need a refoam and probably the 044Ti innards have turned to mush by now. They've been sitting idle for a year now since we remodeled and I had to move them.
    It all depends on your DIY capabilities, of course .... but of all the refoams that I've done ... the LE-14-H1's were the absolute easiest (they self center on the outer edge), $30 for foams from R.Cobb, tho I would not recommend learning on expensive drivers. YMMV.

    There is also a thread around here about refoaming the internal plugs in the 044Ti.

    Nothing is difficult for the person who can afford to pay someone else to do it.
    Yes, I've got my reasons and to me they're all true,
    And I wouldn't change them, not even for you.

  8. #113
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    It all depends on your DIY capabilities, of course .... but of all the refoams that I've done ... the LE-14-H1's were the absolute easiest (they self center on the outer edge), $30 for foams from R.Cobb, tho I would not recommend learning on expensive drivers. YMMV.

    There is also a thread around here about refoaming the internal plugs in the 044Ti.

    Nothing is difficult for the person who can afford to pay someone else to do it.
    I've done plenty of surrounds and not failed one yet, all from Rick. I already have the foams for the LE14H-1's. If the spiders seem solid, I'll probably just refoam them. I can always send them out to Ken for a re-suspend. If I could get the recone kits, I'd do those myself as I have done several recones as well using NOS parts. I can run a variable frequency and power level sweep through them with my bench equipment during repairs so I got that covered.

    However, I'm not sure I'm up for tearing into the 044Ti's... yet. I do have spares - mostly in other pairs of Ti's with IIRC, one spare sitting on a shelf. I actually might have a damaged one from the original purchase move that insurance paid for that I can experiment on. I'll have to go look again. Otherwise, I'm going to have to noodle on that one.

    I also recently found a 104H (not in my 250Ti's) that has a dented dome so I'm working on getting a replacement for those "rare as hen's teeth" parts. There are repops available if needed.

    I should have ordered them from Harmon when they were still available...

    Now, the 108H with a perfectly round peg sized hole in the surround is a different story and altogether a challenge.


  9. #114
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutal View Post
    I've done plenty of surrounds and not failed one yet, all from Rick. I already have the foams for the LE14H-1's. ...........

    However, I'm not sure I'm up for tearing into the 044Ti's...
    On the LE14-H1 , normally I glue the inner edge of the foam to the cone first, let it dry and then do the outer edge to the basket and do my centering with that one.

    BUT that driver has a track for the surround to set in, so I glued that outer into the track and let dry. then tucked under and did the inner, thot I'd need to use that inner to center it, but it all "self-centered" just beautifully.

    the 044Ti scared me too. I started this thread ===>>> http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ighlight=044ti

    044Ti questions/Help needed

    Grumpy and others talked me thru it, not as hard as imagined. BUT I got the 120Ti's up again and it was sure worth the effort, and now I'm ready for when I decide to do the 250ti's.
    Yes, I've got my reasons and to me they're all true,
    And I wouldn't change them, not even for you.

  10. #115
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    On the LE14-H1 , normally I glue the inner edge of the foam to the cone first, let it dry and then do the outer edge to the basket and do my centering with that one.

    BUT that driver has a track for the surround to set in, so I glued that outer into the track and let dry. then tucked under and did the inner, thot I'd need to use that inner to center it, but it all "self-centered" just beautifully.

    the 044Ti scared me too. I started this thread ===>>> http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ighlight=044ti

    044Ti questions/Help needed

    Grumpy and others talked me thru it, not as hard as imagined. BUT I got the 120Ti's up again and it was sure worth the effort, and now I'm ready for when I decide to do the 250ti's.
    Thanks for that tip!

    I have a tendency to dry fit everything first as much as possible and look long and hard at the steps I intend to take. Maybe I would have figured that out, maybe not. The disadvantage of doing all the others in a different manner is making assumptions that may be invalid. That said, I'll have to go back and look at my LE14A refoam thread because I think that's how that one laid in as well.


  11. #116
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brutal View Post
    Thanks for that tip!

    I have a tendency to dry fit everything first as much as possible and look long and hard at the steps I intend to take. Maybe I would have figured that out, maybe not. The disadvantage of doing all the others in a different manner is making assumptions that may be invalid. That said, I'll have to go back and look at my LE14A refoam thread because I think that's how that one laid in as well.
    you have the perfect correct procedure, dry fitting first.

    IF you used the normal steps of gluing foam to cone first, and it was not perfectly centered, then it would not fit into the basket track w/o screwing up the cone alignment.

    It's the only one I've ever encountered that is that way.
    Yes, I've got my reasons and to me they're all true,
    And I wouldn't change them, not even for you.

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