Does it matter that the wedge lens in this 2405 is misaligned, I mean, can it be properly oriented during diaphragm installation, or is indicative of some larger problem? I've never had one apart....
Item is here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...773215375&rd=1
Those can be taken apart, and you can realign the phase plug properly! I would think that the angle of the phase plug would affect the tweeters coverage pattern and so yes it would affect the sound!
It can be fixed.
scottyj
If your 2405s are the type that have a small, angled screw holding the pieces that form the slot opening, then you can remove these pieces and get better access to the "wedge". It may rotate from the front. Otherwise, you'll have to loosen the screw in the center of the rear section (which may require either removing te label or cutting a hole in it). Once you get at the screw, it can be loosened and the "wedge" rotated, and then the screw re-tightened.
Some people have succeeded in heating the aluminum foilcal label and removing it without too much damage, while others simply cut out a 1/4" hole in the middle to get to the screw.
Tom
Heck, that's just for crooked rooms...Originally Posted by Zilch
John
Here is an 077 with the outer horn removed. That is the section Tom is speaking of. If you do go to rotate the wedge make sure it is loose enough so you don't twist the diaphram. If you do it is toast.
Itza friggin' work of ART in there!
077 is 3-hole mounting, whereas 2405 is 4-hole, no?
Factory baffle is pre-drilled 3-hole, I think. Lemme look....
A 4325 equivalent pair I'm upgrading. 3-1/8" diameter with 3 holes, but they're not equidistant, DUH!
Looks like grille frame gonna block it on the left, and MF diffusion lens block it on the right. 075 conical a better choice? Maybe I just shouldn't mess with this "vintage" crap at all....
It's 4325 equivalent I'm "fixing," actually, not 4320 upgrade.
Last edited by Zilch; 01-02-2005 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Not 4320, rather 4325....
"077 is 3-hole mounting, whereas 2405 is 4-hole, no?"
No they are both 4 hole but what about the old external clamps?? Were those 3???
Are those ferrite 2405's you are putting in there??? They are bigger over all because of the ferrite magnet. The magnets is larger than the square mounting flange. If it get's tight you can pull the tire off the magnet. You have enough room with the port??
Rob
Not to complicate it further, but what I HAVE is a pair of ferrite 2402's I was gonna put in there, and 3106 crossovers (rear also has cutouts for them). Then I figured 2405's would be more "correct." NOW it looks like I need original 077's with external clamps, maybe, unless I'm willing to do 4-hole mounting.
You're right, now that I see how tight stuff is there, I'd better do some dry fitting to see if 24XX is gonna fit at all.
This thread is because I was shopping for cheap 2405's to upgrade these like majick47 did his L200's and saw those with messed-up wedgies. The original thread is here:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=3441
Zilch,
on the left side of the 2405 cutout app. in the height of the right top screw I see something that looks like a closed hole. I'd bet your cabinet have the 4 hole drilling. Check from the inside.
My monitor has 3 holes as wellItza friggin' work of ART in there!
077 is 3-hole mounting, whereas 2405 is 4-hole, no?
Factory baffle is pre-drilled 3-hole, I think. Lemme look....
A 4320 I'm upgrading to 4325. 3-1/8" diameter with 3 holes, but they're not equidistant, DUH!
Looks like grille frame gonna block it on the left, and MF diffusion lens block it on the right. 075 conical a better choice? Maybe I just shouldn't mess with this "vintage" crap at all........see pic....075's or 2402's might be more original
Specs are as follows:
2215, 2420, 2402, LX5, N7000
The sound is as good as my 4333's, in fact I think the 2215 is better than the 2231
If you can find a pair of front mounting clamps, you can use these to hold your 2405s. If I had these cabinets, I would mount the 2405s by drilling new holes (with T nuts) to securely mount the slot tweeters.
This is what i did on my 4320 upgrades (see photo at left). However, I actually cut new holes for the 2405s centered above the compression drivers, and then, of course, drilled the correct mounting screw hoiles.
Tom.
I'm thinking that's the best approach to these. The factory location is just too nasty tight against the port and grille frame. To make them mirror imaged, I'd have to drill an entirely new hole in one of them anyway.
There's likely reflections off the overhanging top up there, but the 2405 vertical dispersion is only 40 degrees, so maybe it's inconsequential.
I see from the brochure the 4320 crossover frequency is 800 Hz. What crossover is that? What woofer?
Were you pleased with the outcome, or should I just forget this little endeavor?
The 4320 came with the LE15A/2215. The crossover was the LX13/3110.
As far as your earlier question about the twisted wedge. Do not attempt to turn it without first loosening the screw as you will wrinkle the diaphragm.
Widget
Bingo.
Zilch - you must remove the foilcal on the rear of the 2405. Period. Losen the screw behind it - it holds the "lens" in position. If you're not replacing the ring diaphragm, you don't need to mess with the front bracket, at all. Merely align the lens and retighten.
bo
"Indeed, not!!"
Zilch re my L200b conversion to quasi L300 I took a lot of time looking/measuring/thinking before I cut the 2405 tweeter holes in the baffleboard. In the end the only "practical" spot was on the top over the LE85 and there was little room to play with at that. So far I have not noticed any diffraction problems with this location. Comparing my L200b with pictures of the L300 the 2405 tweeter is in the same exact location. Additionally I have installed 3" casters to the bases of both speakers and with the slanted baffleboard the 2405 tweeters are at ear level in my estimation. I can give you measurements re the distance between the 2405 and LE85 if needed. Also examined th photo of cutout for "tweeter" and it appears to me that two (2) sets of 3 holes were drilled for the retaining clamps. I considered useing the clamps to cover up the mess if I screwed up the tweeter holes. Luckily the holes came out perfect.
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