Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Choosing the right walnut veneer and finish method.

  1. #1
    Senior Member Goldjazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    366

    Choosing the right walnut veneer and finish method.

    So I need to re-veneer a pair of 4350's. I've sourced some American Walnut. Luckily I have a pair of 4343's in factory walnut to compare with to get the finish right.

    However the veneer I've sourced when compared to my original 4343 veneer is more grey/brown while the 4343's are redder, see attached pic.

    I've read that walnut used in the 70's may have been more red because it was air dried instead of kiln dried (as it tends to be today). I've also read that Walnut will get lighter and redder with age. I've also read that you can add a bit of dye or stain to make the walnut more red. I asked this question on a woodworking forum and they warned me off the dye/stain idea and they think it'll just lighten up take on a more honey colour as per the 4343s.

    So at this stage I'm inclined to not stain and just finish as per the JBL spec i.e. 3 parts boiled linseed oil, 1 part pure gum turpentine.

    http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...ish/page02.jpg

    Just checking if anyone has crossed this bridge before and has had success.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    nowhere
    Posts
    132
    This thread may help: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...tco+Danish+Oil

    My cabinet guy used the Watco natural and the results are what I was after: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ild&highlight=

  3. #3
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sheltering in place
    Posts
    9,342
    when I've had this problem, just turn the cabs upside down so to experiment on the unseen bottoms and try different stains.

    Be sure to label the samples.

    (I always seemed to end up using "Mandarin Teak" tung seal on walnut , kind of a slightly reddish overcast)

    except on my teak 250Ti's. Used an Aussie product "Organ Oil" ...beeswax with a citrus cleaner, lay it on, buff in with 000 steel wool, buff out with rag. Removed years of dirt, brightened them up and now they kinda glow.
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

  4. #4
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,044
    Quote Originally Posted by DES-1 View Post
    This thread may help: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...tco+Danish+Oil

    My cabinet guy used the Watco natural and the results are what I was after: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ild&highlight=
    Just be aware that Watco has polymer resins in it that harden in the wood fibers.

    I've used it to refinish rough cabs after a light sanding, not sure I would use it on virgin wood. Definitely keep it away from any 250Ti's!


  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    nowhere
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by brutal View Post
    Just be aware that Watco has polymer resins in it that harden in the wood fibers.

    I've used it to refinish rough cabs after a light sanding, not sure I would use it on virgin wood. Definitely keep it away from any 250Ti's!
    That's hardly a bad thing. To the contrary, it might extend the life of the veneer on some of the ancient JBL's that had marginal quality to begin with.

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Posts
    12

    The right walnut?

    Goldjazz - is the walnut you've purchased American Walnut or American Black Walnut? I had the same experience when I bought some walnut veneered plywood which turned out to be European. More grey and plain in appearance than the American Black veneer.
    There are some oil based stains available but its difficult to make a dark wood lighter if at all possible. A year ago I planned to do some re-veneering on my Olympuses and was advised by an American woodworking expert to purchase American Black walnut veneer from a company in the US. Take a look at their homepage on the below address to see if the veneer they sell resembles your 4343 boxes.

    http://www.veneer-factory-outlet.com

    Best regards/Pellets

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    96
    With something this valuable and if going to the trouble of re-veneering I personally would stain and lacquer them.
    You can do some sample stain applications on your leftover veneer pieces. Find a better than average paint and finish store in you area and they will help with that.
    As far as lacquer, I'm not talking rattle can applications but a legit booth spray finish. you may have a local furniture refinish shop nearby that if all the prep is done etc, they may not charge much to apply the lacquer, and you can choose the tint. If after you do the veneering you are struggling getting them the more red color, dyes are probably your best bet and those shops can dial in that very well.

    And most of the issue these days with trying to find veneer that matches our old speakers is the wood is coming from completely different forests that are different in age etc. Plus the variety differences on top of it all. Almost gotta ignore what was and just pick something anew based on it's own merits.

  8. #8
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sheltering in place
    Posts
    9,342
    Quote Originally Posted by DES-1 View Post
    That's hardly a bad thing. To the contrary, it might extend the life of the veneer on some of the ancient JBL's that had marginal quality to begin with.



    Have to question that statement.

    owned ancient JBL's from the 60's, 70's, 80''s , 90's and have NEVER seen a single one* "that had marginal quality to begin with" . The entire L series and Ti series had VERY nice veneer "to begin with" . In the seventies, almost all manufactures used veneer that I wish was still in use now

    *exceptions : 4410, L80T - spaghetti wood, L7 ugly black (but good veneer under the bad color choice)
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    nowhere
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    [/B]

    Have to question that statement.

    owned ancient JBL's from the 60's, 70's, 80''s , 90's and have NEVER seen a single one* "that had marginal quality to begin with" . The entire L series and Ti series had VERY nice veneer "to begin with" . In the seventies, almost all manufactures used veneer that I wish was still in use now

    *exceptions : 4410, L80T - spaghetti wood, L7 ugly black (but good veneer under the bad color choice)
    Well, you've seen tons more of them than me so I'll retract "marginal". Speakers do live a harder life than decent furniture so maybe that solely accounts for present day condition/deterioration. Was trying to make the point that any way you can keep these old beasts looking good and functional isn't bad. Obviously if you worship your JBL's you might disagree on methods and finishes.

  10. #10
    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    sheltering in place
    Posts
    9,342
    Quote Originally Posted by DES-1 View Post
    Well, you've seen tons more of them than me so I'll retract "marginal". Speakers do live a harder life than decent furniture so maybe that solely accounts for present day condition/deterioration.
    In my case: Our furniture gets used, bumped into by the vacuum (luckily it's solid teak and pretty hard) , but SHE knows enough to respect MY speakers. They don't ever move and are in the same condition as when they were installed.

    I've also included her when going to purchase furniture or speakers and she's well aware that the speakers were more expensive (by a little) than the handmade Asian teak/marble/mother of pearl set. Having her there on the buying experience makes her an accomplice and now has emotionally invested in the purchases too.
    So we cheated and we lied and we tested,
    and we never failed to fail, it was the easiest thing to do

  11. #11
    Senior Member brutal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    1,044
    Quote Originally Posted by SEAWOLF97 View Post
    In my case: Our furniture gets used, bumped into by the vacuum (luckily it's solid teak and pretty hard) , but SHE knows enough to respect MY speakers. They don't ever move and are in the same condition as when they were installed.

    I've also included her when going to purchase furniture or speakers and she's well aware that the speakers were more expensive (by a little) than the handmade Asian teak/marble/mother of pearl set. Having her there on the buying experience makes her an accomplice and now has emotionally invested in the purchases too.
    You brought a Roomba furniture shopping?






Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Refinishing JBL Walnut Veneer
    By markd51 in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-08-2012, 09:52 AM
  2. walnut veneer for jbls
    By brad6285 in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-05-2009, 01:38 PM
  3. Candle wax and walnut veneer
    By rdgrimes in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 10-15-2008, 07:56 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •