Hello Lansing Heritage folks, and happy thanksgiving. This is my first post.
I've been reading many posts on this forum for the past week researching some speakers I've recently acquired and am going to bring back to life.
TWO pairs.
They were originally Gauss studio monitors.
So clearly they were modified with JBL drivers at some point, and turned upside down and hung from the ceiling in a old disco club. (Pogo's in Shawnee, KS)
In their most recent phase of life, they were stripped of their crossovers and only partially used. (tweeters disconnected)
We've got the original Gauss 5831 woofers (same as 3851), 2440 mid with titanium 2441 diaphragms, and 2405 tweeters.
They have patched holes in the back that look to have previously been home to crossovers - the hole shape and size match something like a JBL N7000 or N8000. (bottom right of cab in next pic) The patch panels (thin wood) have notes/labels for the in/outputs that match these crossovers as well.
All there is inside the cabs is what I believe to be the original crossover section for the original Gauss mid driver - a 52uf cap and a 25ohm resistor.
Long story short, skipping all the extraneous details of how these got to where they are (unless someone is interested - let me know!), I need crossovers.
I've been getting help from mainly one person on AK, and I want to get additional opinions before I order parts. It's not that I don't trust this person - they clearly have valuable experience in this area. I just want them to be the best they can, so I'm double checking. He recommends the N8000 network.
I have a Crown VFX2A that I can use to cross the woofers to the mids and tweeters. I'm only going to use one pair at a time.
My understanding is that the 2440/2441 + 2390 (2309 horn/2310 lens) combo is good down to 500hz in home applications mounted to a baffle. That's fine, I'll use the VFX2A for that unless there is a better way.
But what about the mid/tweeter crossover? Is the N8000 my best bet, or is there something better I can do? I have no clue about crossover design, but I can solder from a schematic.
The 2441's look to start dropping steadily after 6khz, but have output up to 15khz. I've read the 2405's should come in at least 8khz and no lower.
What's the best way to handle this? I could go with an active crossover, but with my limited knowledge on crossovers I'm not sure I'd know what to do there......but I'm open to that possibility.
Very excited to see what you all have to say.....grateful for this place and all the information you've all collected for people like me to fish from. I've learned a lot from this forum in the past week.
Sean
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