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Thread: Replacing Binding Posts on 250Ti

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    Replacing Binding Posts on 250Ti

    It's been 30 years...Any suggestions? looking at WBT and Cardas for the transplant...Do I need short or longs posts I guess is the 1st question..Any insights/suggestions/comments? All and any gladly welcomed...Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradster56 View Post
    It's been 30 years...Any suggestions? looking at WBT and Cardas for the transplant...Do I need short or longs posts I guess is the 1st question..Any insights/suggestions/comments? All and any gladly welcomed...Thanks!


    Nobody?

  3. #3
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    Have you peeked behind the curtain? The binding posts -appear- to be soldered directly to the crossover circuit board.

    You'll need some info to decide 1) if it's worth it to you (unless they are broken, changes will likely be cosmetic or placebo and could reduce the system value if not executed well/properly), 2) your electronic and mechanical skills are up to it, 3) how to obtain dimensions for potential replacements.

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    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
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    I've used these Dayton posts on a few models, but not on a 250. My only requirement is that they not stick out past the MDF back plate where they can get bumped. These meet that requirement.

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    Senior Member SEAWOLF97's Avatar
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    I have 250Ti's and considered replacing the posts as they would NOT take
    12 ga. speaker wire.

    Thought abt enlarging the hole that runs thru the posts, but that seemed risky.
    then looked at access and whether they were soldered to the crossover and decided

    just to use bananas and go on to other projects.

    "If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is"
    It's the new Mother Nature taking over
    She's gettin' us all

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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Looks like they're perfectly set-up for these Neutrik dual bananas:

    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."óGreg Timbers

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    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    Unless you were planning on building new charge coupled networks (has been done before) leave them well alone.

    Philís suggestion looks like a great solution.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    Have you peeked behind the curtain? The binding posts -appear- to be soldered directly to the crossover circuit board.

    You'll need some info to decide 1) if it's worth it to you (unless they are broken, changes will likely be cosmetic or placebo and could reduce the system value if not executed well/properly), 2) your electronic and mechanical skills are up to it, 3) how to obtain dimensions for potential replacements.

    Name:  250Ti xover rear.jpg
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    Name:  250Ti crossover front.jpg
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    My rear panel looks nothing like that....I have one of the earliest L-250's sold and a few years after my purchase JBL made available a kit that I purchased to upgrade them up to the Ti series...

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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradster56 View Post

    My rear panel looks nothing like that....I have one of the earliest L-250's sold and a few years after my purchase JBL made available an kit that I purchased to upgrade them up to the Ti series...

    Well then . . . I mean well, then:
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."óGreg Timbers

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    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradster56 View Post

    My rear panel looks nothing like that....I have one of the earliest L-250's sold and a few years after my purchase JBL made available an kit that I purchased to upgrade them up to the Ti series...
    Likely then you have pretty much the same Masonite boards that the L250 has, with all the shorting bars on the back? And you already have experience with removing and replacing them. Personally I wouldn't bother unless the current posts are not functioning as they should. (or if I needed to take them out for some other reason) If you still have the original L250 boards, I bet they have the same setup and you can experiment on them.

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    Yes it has the shorting bars...Original board is long gone...I'm certainly not comfortable or qualified to undertake this mission...The original posts are cheaply made and these classics deserve better
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradster56 View Post
    Yes it has the shorting bars...Original board is long gone...I'm certainly not comfortable or qualified to undertake this mission...The original posts are cheaply made and these classics deserve better
    I'm not sure I agree with the "cheaply" part, especially if they are still working after all the years.
    The shorting bars are more likely to cause issues and need to be removed and cleaned periodically.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    I would just clean them appropriately.

    If you were going to spend money on better posts then itís a logical step to build a new network and use charge coupled crossover to improve the overall resolution. That had been done before to great effect.

    Itís not that difficult to build a new network. It just takes time and money 💰.

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    Yes they still function as designed but when compared to offerings by WBT or Cardas they fall way short in my opinion...I certainly cannot do any upgrades with my skill level and it's not as though I can box them up and ship them to somebody qualified...Now if I could find somebody local...

  15. #15
    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    I get it.

    If you search l think a new charge coupled 250 Ti network was built by forum members before.

    My point was unless you increase the resolving power of the network the audible value of the WBT connectors is academic.

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