It's been 30 years...Any suggestions? looking at WBT and Cardas for the transplant...Do I need short or longs posts I guess is the 1st question..Any insights/suggestions/comments? All and any gladly welcomed...Thanks!
It's been 30 years...Any suggestions? looking at WBT and Cardas for the transplant...Do I need short or longs posts I guess is the 1st question..Any insights/suggestions/comments? All and any gladly welcomed...Thanks!
Originally Posted by bradster56
Nobody?
Have you peeked behind the curtain? The binding posts -appear- to be soldered directly to the crossover circuit board.
You'll need some info to decide 1) if it's worth it to you (unless they are broken, changes will likely be cosmetic or placebo and could reduce the system value if not executed well/properly), 2) your electronic and mechanical skills are up to it, 3) how to obtain dimensions for potential replacements.
Have you peeked behind the curtain? The binding posts -appear- to be soldered directly to the crossover circuit board.
You'll need some info to decide 1) if it's worth it to you (unless they are broken, changes will likely be cosmetic or placebo and could reduce the system value if not executed well/properly), 2) your electronic and mechanical skills are up to it, 3) how to obtain dimensions for potential replacements.
My rear panel looks nothing like that....I have one of the earliest L-250's sold and a few years after my purchase JBL made available a kit that I purchased to upgrade them up to the Ti series...
Well then . . . I mean well, then:
". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers
Likely then you have pretty much the same Masonite boards that the L250 has, with all the shorting bars on the back? And you already have experience with removing and replacing them. Personally I wouldn't bother unless the current posts are not functioning as they should. (or if I needed to take them out for some other reason) If you still have the original L250 boards, I bet they have the same setup and you can experiment on them.
Yes it has the shorting bars...Original board is long gone...I'm certainly not comfortable or qualified to undertake this mission...The original posts are cheaply made and these classics deserve better
I've used these Dayton posts on a few models, but not on a 250. My only requirement is that they not stick out past the MDF back plate where they can get bumped. These meet that requirement.
I have 250Ti's and considered replacing the posts as they would NOT take
12 ga. speaker wire.
Thought abt enlarging the hole that runs thru the posts, but that seemed risky.
then looked at access and whether they were soldered to the crossover and decided
just to use bananas and go on to other projects.
"If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is"
Some kind of happiness is measured out in miles
Looks like they're perfectly set-up for these Neutrik dual bananas:
". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers
Unless you were planning on building new charge coupled networks (has been done before) leave them well alone.
Phil’s suggestion looks like a great solution.
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