Building a 4343 Clone

[santashooter]

Okay so wattage is not important, but the impedance is right?
8 ohms for the UHF and 16 Ohms for horn and 10”?

[Ian Mackenzie]

The way the network operates you need 3 x 8 ohm Lpads per box

If you look at the distance between the Lpad on the foilcal the 100 way would not fit

[santashooter]

Hi there
the project is going along slowly, still need to buy plywood, and i am looking for a local supplier for the walnut trim.
while waiting; does anyone know where I can source new labels for drivers? My 2405, came without the label on the back, so I would like reproductions from somewhere.

[Odd]

Try and contact Paolo Gibertoni
He has previously made fine copies.

Paolo Gibertoni <[email protected]>

[Ian Mackenzie]

Just google Jbl foilcal

I got these but there are others

http://italianxshop.blogspot.com.au/...ilcal.html?m=0

https://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?isRefi...=1&_mwBanner=1

[richluvsound]

This guy does beautiful work . I’ve used Paolo also . Great to work with ? But Edly’s work is outsatanding .

[DES-1]

For those building clone or 'tribute' speakers... do you place any form of identification on them to distinguish from factory? My project speakers deviate enough from the original design so unlikely they'll be confused even if I choose to label them 4345 with repro badges. I might look into a custom set of badges (or make myself in Photoshop) to complete the factory look but add something so as not to upset the JBL gods

[Ian Mackenzie]

Good point

I don’t think so but the are some things that make it obvious if you know what to look for.

Such as the authentic ma- 15 clamps, the original grill fabric and the way the emblem plate is attached is not common among clones
The real giveaway is the authentic 3145 stock crossover assembly. That can be seen from the rear as well as inside
I recall the authentic factory 4345 has stamped serial numbers in the foil cal but that could be done on a reproduction

[santashooter]

Thanks for the links - I have found the foilcals in some beautiful reproductions, it was more driver labels for the backside of the drivers.

It is a conundrum - I am are building a clone of the enclosure - the drivers are all JBL and the crossover the same.
My enclosure is as close to original spec as I can possibly get. I will be putting an aftermarket foilcal on them, but they will not have a serial number, and that is where the deviation comes in - It will therefore never claim to be a production 4343, but still a JBL 4343.

[DES-1]

You've been incredibly fortunate to gather those components in such condition. Looking forward to seeing the cabinets and completion. These will likely be very valuable and true clones!

[santashooter]

Thank you DES-1 - I hope to get building later this month, and I'll post images here when construction starts.
I am moving slow and steady, doing things right

Again, in my mind JBL has been known for providing cabinet plans, selling drivers and crossovers as parts with their own production number, and therefore what constitutes a "real" 4343 and what is a clone is somewhat a sliding scale. (Danish Lancer models had enclosures all built locally in Denmark, not by JBL)

If I build a true clone, where there is no difference in construction, materials or parts (that is not entirely the case with my build, but for the arguments sake, let's play with that hypothetical standpoint)
It WILL be a JBL 4343 - it is exactly the same thing - the difference is only contingent on who built the enclosure, JBL factory or me - in my mind the difference therefore would be not in the model name, but in the serial stamp - JBL factory would print serial tags on their units (IE a documentation of a serial production)- My speakers would be a JBL 4343 but not be a part of JBL factory production and I would either have to stamp them with my own number system, or simply leave them blank.

If I went down the modding or "home-brew" route - I would like a custom foilcal more than a reproductionopy, since the speaker would otherwise not be what it says on the foilcal.

When I am done with the enclosures and assembling my speakers, there will be a difference between a true JBL 4343 and my speakers: the 10" and in the crossover - I use the 3145 and a 2122H instead of 3143 and 2121A - But the enclosures will wait for me to get a hold on the 3143 and the 2121A for me to put in - therefore the "reproduction" foilcal that says JBL 4343 - some day, that will be true.

[Ian Mackenzie]

I have not forgotten about the 3143.

It’s in the works

[santashooter]

No worries Ian - it is not a first priority right now, so take all the time you need!
Finding 2121As is not an easy task, and i have a substantiam build Job ahead of me before that

[santashooter]

So, I've built myself a new workshop at my parents house - it is a great little place, with all the necessary tools and the space for leaving the project, when I do something else. It is in Jutland or the big main part of Denmark - I however, live in copenhagen. So it is a bit of a drive, and I usually Get a bit tired of the country-life after a small week, so the project is going to come along slowly.'
This however is probably a good idea, considering my usual "get things done now" attitude, that could tend to do things quickly rather than correctly.

But a little set pictures of the drivers, workshop, veneer and start of gluing things together.

The components (with both my 2231 with 2235H kits and K130 with 2231 recone-kits.)
2123H with new 2122H recone kits
LE85
2405 with new diaphragms.

Walnut pieces for the wood-trim
The 3145 filters

28 pieces of wood altogether



Testing colours: the first tests are way to bright for a 4343 - might be okay for a 4313B or similar later speaker, but I found the correct color to be a combination of 80% NCS S6020 and 20% RAL 5014




The new workshop: Two tables are a good thing to have

Lower baffle-board measurements for the woofer and ports.

All panels are made of 24mm plywood, made up of 2 12mm pieces glued together to make a very rigid 24mm panel - the boards have been cut up, so I have a 12mm overhang places where I either countersink the edges for locking panel (used on the backpanel and lower baffle) and also for giving me more glue-surface for the top and bottom panel.


Here I am testing the method for counter-sinking the baffle and backpanel - a 12mm wide, 12mm deep slot routered into the joined panels.

[Ian Mackenzie]

Wow, your very organised.

My one tip is take your time.