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Thread: Best JBL for hometheather?

  1. #1
    Senior Member baldrick's Avatar
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    Best JBL for hometheather?

    I’m going to build new large subwoofers for My hometheather, but not sure What drivers to use yet. If JBL, here are some of the canidates:

    4x2269h
    8x2216nd
    8x1501fe
    8xW1500H

    what would you prefer of these or other canidates??

    (PS: please do not Disqus If it’s neceacry with that much woofers...)

  2. #2
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Definitely go with the 2269H woofers. Tight, articulate, powerful, and able to dig down into the depths of infrasonic sound that many modern movies offer up. For tuning I’d copy the JBL Pro Sub18.


    Widget

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    I am agree with Mr. Widget, 2269H have everything, powerful with high X-max
    W1500H, 2256G and 2267H are the options for 15" woofers

    I would not waste 1500Fe or 2216Nd for subwoofer and both of them does not have the extreme X-max that the other woofers have



    Ari

  4. #4
    Senior Member baldrick's Avatar
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    I had previous 2269 in 8^ft box and was in fact a litle dissapointed, so If I buy again I will use larger box to Get some extra below 25hz.

    I’m quite satisified with 1501fe and 2216 when used in My speakers so thats why I’n a litle curious how they would work AS subs AS well.

    2267 would also be intersting to try

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    yes, 2267H similar power like 2269H and are close in X-max also but the biggest problem with 2267H is the price, they cost close to double more than 2269H

    1501Fe and 2216Nd are great woofers in two way or three way system, come close to the 1500Al/1501Al woofers



    Ari

  6. #6
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    I wouldn’t go larger. If you copy the Sub18 with DSP, you’ll have the best results.


    Widget

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    Hey Mr. Widget, Do you have the dimensions/tuning on the SUB18?

  8. #8
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sguttag View Post
    Hey Mr. Widget, Do you have the dimensions/tuning on the SUB18?
    No, I don’t. I could guess, but it’d only be a guess. If I were going to do it I would just buy the factory built boxes and be done with it.


    Widget

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    If I remember correctly you´ve owned the very capable Aurasound NS18 in the past. May I ask what you didn´t like with these and what you are looking to improve now?

    I have used the 2256g in a sealed enclosure and liked it for movies. It is mechanically very durable, but you will need a lot of eq and power. Not really musically but I believe you are strictly using these for HT anyway...
    As you are located in europe, you may consider the massive BMS 18" woofer as well. It should be very similar to the 2269H, but a little less expensive...

    I haven´t seen your HT-room yet, but I assume you have sitting accommodations for several people. Therefor you need a linear bass response over a widely spread space and not just one sweetspot. 8 subs do offer more flexibility than 4 subs to reduce your room-modes in your location.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    No, I don’t. I could guess, but it’d only be a guess. If I were going to do it I would just buy the factory built boxes and be done with it.


    Widget
    Would you still do it if it cost 4x as much to buy factory built boxes? I've estimated the internal volume reasonably well. It is the tuning that I'd be guessing mostly. I've heard 24Hz and 25Hz tuning kicked about. For a cinema speaker, it would be an 8ft^3 tuned to 25Hz (e.g. the 4645C box) or as a dual driver, it would be a 18ft^3 box still tuned to 25Hz (5628, which is the same box as the 4642A). However, the SUB18 seems like it is closer to a 9ft^3 (just shy of that depending on internal bracing and such). I could see the tuning being a little lower with the bigger box. Fortunately, raising the port tuning is a matter of shortening the tubes.

  11. #11
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sguttag View Post
    Would you still do it if it cost 4x as much to buy factory built boxes?
    Probably... I doubt by the time you calculate the time required to build and test you’ll be saving that much. Now, if you need a cabinet to fit a specific form factor, that changes the equation.

    I’d guess the factory volume is 8 cu ft to 8.5 cu ft. The dimensions listed includes the feet, offset front baffle and don’t forget internal bracing.


    Widget

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Widget View Post
    Probably... I doubt by the time you calculate the time required to build and test you’ll be saving that much. Now, if you need a cabinet to fit a specific form factor, that changes the equation.

    I’d guess the factory volume is 8 cu ft to 8.5 cu ft. The dimensions listed includes the feet, offset front baffle and don’t forget internal bracing.


    Widget
    Getting a basic rectangular box banged out isn't that much time/money (maybe $50 for the wood plus ports and 4 hours for the time). No lie, buying a t SUB18 would cost me 4 times as much as to make it or a clone of it. Plus, as you noted, the ability to alter the dimensions to fit a particular space. Whereas I'm using in a home-theatre, its "finish" need only be flat-black.

  13. #13
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    It depends on what your build quality standard is: Mr. Widget's one is pretty high
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...s-for-Big-Bass

  14. #14
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    It needs to not fall apart and sound good. Cosmetics are not important to me, in this application. I have a pair of L250s and B460 for "pretty" speakers that sound good.

  15. #15
    Senior Member pos's Avatar
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    If you look at that thread it is not only pretty: it is a dual layer box, MDF+plywood.
    I think the sub18 is plywood only, so that makes it easier to clone of course.

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