Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 50

Thread: Fostex horn - repair, refurb, repurpose!

  1. #1
    Member michaelg's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg CANADA
    Posts
    45

    Fostex horn - repair, refurb, repurpose!

    hjames started this new thread on fixing up the Fostex horns she just won on eBay.


    The thread below starts from post 128 in the old "Mystery Large Format Monitor" -

    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ormat-Monitors

    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post
    Howards orange oil
    I have no idea what "Howards Orange Oil" is but the horns are TEAK and you should use TEAK OIL! Real teak oil, not the junk that dries like a paste or a varnish.

    The wood has to "breathe". I can provide you with some guidance in that area if you have problems locating the good stuff.

    Michael.
    Last edited by Mr. Widget; 02-10-2018 at 11:10 AM.
    Michael Gillespie.
    204.943.9000


  2. #2
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NoVA - DC 'burbs
    Posts
    8,332
    Quote Originally Posted by michaelg View Post
    I have no idea what "Howards Orange Oil" is but the horns are TEAK and you should use TEAK OIL! Real teak oil, not the junk that dries like a paste or a varnish.

    The wood has to "breathe". I can provide you with some guidance in that area if you have problems locating the good stuff.

    Michael.
    No, no, I understand.
    The orange oil is safe for walnut and other woods and does not contain wax or clog the pores like that sticky Tung oil or the Watco Danish oil ...
    I had JohnW make a beautiful pair of walnut horns for me a few years back -
    they were gogeous smith horns in walnut, and seeing how these teak horns were treated is very sad.
    I am basically going to wait before I do anything to restore the horns and fix the crack.

    I have an early morning - I'll talk to you later!
    And thank you for making contact!
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  3. #3
    Senior Member gdmoore28's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    243
    Heather, you are into projects constantly, aren't you? I love watching them.

    I know there's an urge to clean them up and make them look nice, but I would not do any more to them until you have them repaired. Any residue of cleaning or restorative chemicals that happen to seep down into those cracks is going to make it unlikely that the resins that will be used to repair them will stick. That would be bad ju-ju.

    GeeDeeEmm

  4. #4
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    2,492
    35 years later, I still love everything about these speakers. ;-)

    Thanks Michael for your work.


  5. #5
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NoVA - DC 'burbs
    Posts
    8,332
    Quote Originally Posted by gdmoore28 View Post
    Heather, you are into projects constantly, aren't you? I love watching them.

    I know there's an urge to clean them up and make them look nice, but I would not do any more to them until you have them repaired. Any residue of cleaning or restorative chemicals that happen to seep down into those cracks is going to make it unlikely that the resins that will be used to repair them will stick. That would be bad ju-ju.

    GeeDeeEmm
    Understood, thanks.
    I'm only heavy-oiling the one without the cracks.
    The split lip will def need to be dry for glue to work.
    I'll clean off the tape reside but not much else on that one.
    You can see after work today I got a lot of the tape residue cleaned off of the uncracked one on the left -

    And yes, its a pretty wooden piece - its TEAK - how could I resist?

    The metal adapters have a 4 bolt pattern, and what seems like a 3 bolt pattern for 1 inch JBL drivers.

    Name:  IMG_5936.jpg
Views: 744
Size:  82.7 KB

    Name:  Cleaning_5929.jpg
Views: 748
Size:  87.4 KB

    I did not even notice until now - note the Delos CD in the black box just above the right horn.
    Won it in a contest here on the Lansing Hermitage Forum, back in 2007! Thanks again, King James & TiDome.
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  6. #6
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NoVA - DC 'burbs
    Posts
    8,332
    BTW - kind of thinking of chasing down a pair of 2420 horn drivers for these - so they would be JBL based.

    Had a chance today to gently take out the screws and examine the broken horn better. I believe they were originally machined and glued together -
    then someone dropped one of them and slapped it into place with duct tape and sheet-rock screws!!!
    Anyway, I have not oiled it, just taken it apart to look. The clamp is just holding 3 pieces together to see how they fit.
    Its teak, so its a pretty dense wood.

    I'm thinking very minimal use of Gorilla Glue might be the best way to glue the broken pieces back together.
    In stages. Glue the plank pieces together for the 2 back sides of the horn.
    Glue the 2 parts of the top lip back together.
    Clamp well to prevent expansion/distortion of the original shape.
    Then after all that has had a day to set up and dry,
    Glue the top lip back onto the lower assembly.

    Some of you folks are much better with wood than I am -
    does that sound like a reasonable approach?

    (Its got to be better than duct tape and sheet rock screws, right?)

    Name:  HornPieces_5938.jpg
Views: 723
Size:  101.6 KBName:  HornPieces_5937.jpg
Views: 724
Size:  171.0 KB
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Richmond Hill, Ont.
    Posts
    4,660
    Nice pics Heather ( they certainly offer a nice over-view on this horn type ),

    My inclination ( after seeing how many broken pieces you have ) would be to completely replace the "slab-like" side-walls with new, solid walnut pieces ( while saving & repairing the teak horn bells ).
    - Of course this is easy for me to say from a long-distance perspective.

    You might want to reach out to some of our talented wood-workers here at LHF for some more repair opinions ( maybe even start a new thread ?? ).


  8. #8
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    2,492
    Thanks for sharing the pictures. If it were me, I would look for a fresh slab of teak and replace the broken parts instead of just glueing them back. I understand that teak might be expensive on this side of the Pacific, but in Asia, it is extremely common and cheap. Back in the early 1970s, my parents were importing stuff from Vietnam and it was crated in teak 4'x4' boxes which were disgarded once the content was unpacked. Teak is dense, hard and doesn't rot as easy as common wood. Great fro making crates. And horns. ;-)

  9. #9
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NoVA - DC 'burbs
    Posts
    8,332

    Fostex horn - repair, refurb, repurpose!

    Yep - it DOES make sense to make a new thread for this and not squat on the older "Mystery Large Format Monitors" thread.
    (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ormat-Monitors)

    Anyway, I found a pair of wooden horns on the auction site. They reminded me of the gorgeous walnut horns JohnW made for me a few years back for my L200 project.
    But the auction horns looked abused. faded like they'd been let out in the weather. One had an obvious crack and someone had run Sheet rock screws in to hold it together.
    Duct tape residue across the lips of both of them. Butcher work!
    But the price wasn't too bad, I thought I could improve them, and after the sale the seller offered the original metal adapters with them - for 1 inch drivers.

    Anyway - they arrived mid week and I wiped down the horns with "Oops" to get rid of the tape residue, and wiped down the intact horn with Howards Orange oil to see if that would refresh the wood ...

    Update - Michael Gillespie from Fostex wrote in the other thread and said the horns are made of TEAK! I'll get some Teak oil today
    Name:  Fostex-Horns-Issues01.jpg
Views: 698
Size:  105.1 KBName:  Fostex-Horns-Issues02.jpg
Views: 743
Size:  83.8 KB
    Name:  Fostex-Horns-Issues03.jpg
Views: 715
Size:  96.4 KBName:  Fostex-Horns-Front.jpg
Views: 701
Size:  114.8 KB

    Name:  Fostex-Horn-Mount-Adapters.jpg
Views: 695
Size:  30.9 KB
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  10. #10
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NoVA - DC 'burbs
    Posts
    8,332
    Done - it DOES make sense to do a new thread on these Fostex horns I'm fixing rather than "squat" on the older discussion here.

    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...furb-repurpose!


    Quote Originally Posted by Lee in Montreal View Post
    Thanks for sharing the pictures. If it were me, I would look for a fresh slab of teak and replace the broken parts instead of just glueing them back. I understand that teak might be expensive on this side of the Pacific, but in Asia, it is extremely common and cheap. Back in the early 1970s, my parents were importing stuff from Vietnam and it was crated in teak 4'x4' boxes which were disgarded once the content was unpacked. Teak is dense, hard and doesn't rot as easy as common wood. Great fro making crates. And horns. ;-)
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  11. #11
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    near Glasgow Scotland
    Posts
    1,977
    [QUOTE=hjames;412696]BTW - kind of thinking of chasing down a pair of 2420 horn drivers for these - so they would be JBL based.

    Had a chance today to gently take out the screws and examine the broken horn better. I believe they were originally machined and glued together -
    then someone dropped one of them and slapped it into place with duct tape and sheet-rock screws!!!
    Anyway, I have not oiled it, just taken it apart to look. The clamp is just holding 3 pieces together to see how they fit.
    Its teak, so its a pretty dense wood.

    I'm thinking very minimal use of Gorilla Glue might be the best way to glue the broken pieces back together.
    In stages. Glue the plank pieces together for the 2 back sides of the horn.
    Glue the 2 parts of the top lip back together.
    Clamp well to prevent expansion/distortion of the original shape.
    Then after all that has had a day to set up and dry,
    Glue the top lip back onto the lower assembly.

    Some of you folks are much better with wood than I am -
    does that sound like a reasonable approach?

    (Its got to be better than duct tape and sheet rock screws, right?)

    You called ? Always happy to help a Lady in distress . See next post. M

  12. #12
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NoVA - DC 'burbs
    Posts
    8,332
    Anyway - they arrived mid week and I wiped down the horns with "Oops" to get rid of the tape residue, and wiped down the intact horn with Howards Orange oil to see if that would refresh the wood ...
    BTW - kind of thinking of chasing down a pair of 2420 horn drivers for these - so they would be JBL based.

    So - its the weekend. Today, Saturday, I had a chance to gently take out the screws and examine the broken horn better.
    I believe they were originally machined and glued together -
    then someone dropped one of them and slapped it into place with duct tape and sheet-rock screws!!!
    Anyway, I have not oiled it, just taken it apart to look. The clamp is just holding 3 pieces together to see how they fit.
    Its teak, so its a pretty dense wood.

    I'm thinking very minimal use of Gorilla Glue might be the best way to glue the broken pieces back together.
    In stages. Glue the plank pieces together for the 2 back sides of the horn.
    Glue the 2 parts of the top lip back together.
    Clamp well to prevent expansion/distortion of the original shape.
    Then after all that has had a day to set up and dry,
    Glue the top lip back onto the lower assembly.

    Some of you folks are much better with wood than I am -
    does that sound like a reasonable approach?

    (Its got to be better than duct tape and sheet rock screws, right?)
    Picture of the Fostex adapter next to a JBL 2327 adapter -
    - the 3-hole pattern is the same as the 1 inch JBL drivers!
    - and the 4 hole pattern lines up with the Altec 2 hole pattern!

    Name:  Cleaning_5929.jpg
Views: 682
Size:  87.4 KBName:  FostexAdapters_5936.jpg
Views: 704
Size:  82.7 KB

    Attached Images Attached Images   
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Richmond Hill, Ont.
    Posts
    4,660
    Westlake Audio has used a somewhat similarly ( inspired ) horn in some of their monitors .

    Name:  201457_125610_74UEW7.jpg
Views: 667
Size:  85.5 KB





    Although, there are some significant differences when comparing the throat entry areas.



  14. #14
    Senior Member macaroonie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    near Glasgow Scotland
    Posts
    1,977
    Hi Heather < I thought I'd drop in and lend a hand.

    Gorilla is not really suited to this task as it tends to expand slightly. My go to here would be Titebond Original. It has great bonding properties with open wood , is easy to clean up excess and is not unpleasant to work with.

    Joining Teak , as it is an oily wood it is a good idea to get any latent oil off the surfaces you are trying to join. Q Tip and acetone or MEK dab all over and discard as needed. Allow time for that to flash off before using Titebond.

    Next you have the problem lf creating secure tight joints. In the first instance I would do a dry fit by hand to see if the surfaces mate properly. You may find the odd splinter will stop a good tight fit so these need to be located and removed. If you can post pics of the mating faces I'll have a looky.

    Name:  HornPieces_5938-2.jpg
Views: 680
Size:  60.8 KB

    I would have a go at pieces 1 and 2 ( above ) test for a dry fit using the flat surface face down on a piece of MDF or ply. Next prob you have is clamping. Because you have curves and angles everywhere it will be tricky to get a good grab on anything, I would look at securing the mouth (1) by using a couple of bits of ply about 12" x 3" reaching towards the driver exit. Outside the periphery of the horn mouth fashion a block support such that the ply plates are sitting nicely on the inside surface. Put a couple of screws in between the block and the lip. This will create a down force hopefully holding the part steady, You could use double stick tape but then you have a battle to release it.

    For the throat part (2 ) you will need to affix blocks in such a way that with the part in place you will be able to insert little wedges to create the pressure on (1)

    I'll see if I can sketch up a diagram. Better still if you can post a pic of parts 1 and 2 on their flat surfaces with the mating faces about 10mm apart , I'll edit the pic to show you whats needed.

  15. #15
    Heather [Senorita member] hjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NoVA - DC 'burbs
    Posts
    8,332
    Okay - I used a small chisel to clean up dried glue from the original assembly process.
    I dry fitted the pieces to see how everything fit - it went together brilliantly - no apparent problems
    (Other than the slightly spread places where some dummy used sheetrock screws and slightly split the back panels).

    So - here are pictures from the 3 gluing processes I did ...


    Name:  Glue1_5939.jpg
Views: 661
Size:  96.5 KBName:  Glue1_5940.jpg
Views: 657
Size:  103.4 KB

    I clamped across the back to pull the pieces tightly together, then used small clamps to clamp downward
    to hold the small parts against the inside of the curved lower lip.

    Name:  Glue2_5943.jpg
Views: 672
Size:  120.8 KB
    The front edge of the top lip had been knocked off, which gave me a flat edge to set the clamp against.
    It appears these 2 pieces were assembled this way at the factory - the 2 pieces of wood have a different color and grain.
    It may not look flat from this photo, but I had a straight edge and it is.

    Name:  Glue3_5947.jpg
Views: 661
Size:  84.8 KB
    The top is glued down to the top of the back planks and there is a thin glue bead on the back of the upper curved lip.
    2ch: Oppo, JoLida 502CRC, JBL L212, 18ti,240ti; Heath AS101, Von Schweikert VR4
    7.1: Oppo BDP103D, B&K, UREI 809A, JBL B460

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. DIY 2405 refurb
    By Wardsweb in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 03-04-2016, 02:13 PM
  2. Altec 602A Horn Repair
    By Altec1803 in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-14-2012, 04:36 PM
  3. L112 refurb
    By Jerry in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-10-2012, 01:31 PM
  4. N1200 Refurb
    By bugust in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-31-2011, 11:49 AM
  5. Model 15 - refurb questions
    By RRichardson in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-13-2010, 04:01 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •