Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: E145 Surround Replacement?

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba
    Posts
    279

    E145 Surround Replacement?

    Is it possible to replace the surround on an E145? I was abusing mine and one started to separate by the outer gasket.

  2. #2
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,626
    Hi Robert,

    I'm pretty sure I read here in a thread recently from a German fellow member who fixed an E-145 surround with something equivalent to "Black Asphalt Undercoating" that Canadian Tire sells. I don't recall exactly what had happened to his but I do remember he said it worked fine and it looked good on the picture he showed. In a pinch, you should search here for the thread under "E-145" starting with the most recent and going backwards. As for replacing the surround only, you should ask Edgewound here (Ken), he's usually quite helpful with the guys. Regards,

    Richard

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba
    Posts
    279
    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    Hi Robert,

    I'm pretty sure I read here in a thread recently from a German fellow member who fixed an E-145 surround with something equivalent to "Black Asphalt Undercoating" that Canadian Tire sells. I don't recall exactly what had happened to his but I do remember he said it worked fine and it looked good on the picture he showed. In a pinch, you should search here for the thread under "E-145" starting with the most recent and going backwards. As for replacing the surround only, you should ask Edgewound here (Ken), he's usually quite helpful with the guys. Regards,

    Richard
    I saw that post, he used what he called bitumen or something like that. Here is a picture of where mine is torn, I'm pushing it up with my finger. I can't see how a product like that would repair a tear like this?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,626
    Hi Robert,

    Yes, pretty bad, and at the worst place possible I guess. You may have to recone if no magic trick to fix it. Anyway ask Edgewound he should know.

    Richard

  5. #5
    Senior Member Ed Zeppeli's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Nanaimo, BC
    Posts
    609
    I'd probably pull away the gasket, cut a strip of thin cloth or rag the length of the tear and glue it in place. It may or may not work but it's a solution of sorts if you can't find a re-cone kit.
    DIY Array, 2242 sub, 4408, 4208, Control 8SR, E120 Guitar cab, Control 1, LSR305.

  6. #6
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,626
    Hi Robert and Ed,

    I also thought about something similar to what Ed suggests, in my case flexible "nurse's tape" but with microscopic holes in it for the injury to "breathe", however didn't pursue the idea since a thin piece of that tape, cloth or rag ALONE would most probably increase cabinet air leaks (cloth/rag is not really air tight either) and therefore "corrupt" your LF and alignment with a lower QL number. HOWEVER, to make good use of Ed's idea I would think that an acceptable piece of cloth done the way he says could be useful to hold the surround parts in the right place, and when this is dried, then glue the surround parts back together with a fine line of good quality glue on the front and/or back of the surround to make things air tight again...

    If you can find a way to have the surround parts fit and stay together while they are being glued back as one (fine glue line front and back of surround) then you may be able to succeed without any cloth or rag which is even better re air leaks and appearance. You may try some tape (not too sticky) to hold together on one side and glue the other surround side, then remove the tape and glue that second side again with a fine glue line. It may be better to tape the under side re appearance, glueing the front and when dry remove the tape under and glue that second side together also. That should hold and make things air tight again...

    EDIT: By analogy to tack welding, try tack taping if tape too sticky, since it would damage surround when removed. I would glue a tiny bit larger on each side of the crack (a weakness) for added holding force, just in case you decide to abuse the woofer again... which I'd try to avoid naturally...
    BTW Since my wife was a registered nurse for 30 years, I have access to all sorts of medical supplies and Tools which are quite useful in speaker repair, re-foam or recone jobs: e.g. scalpel to cut a dust cap precisely and with no effort nor mess, dentist's small round mirror to look inside the back vent of a woofer when removing rotten foam inside that place, etc.

    Let us know if the glue job works! Regards,

    Richard

  7. #7
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,626
    Hi Robert,

    Did you try to fix the woofer as suggested? Any news on that? Works fine or not?

    Richard

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba
    Posts
    279
    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    Hi Robert,

    Did you try to fix the woofer as suggested? Any news on that? Works fine or not?

    Richard
    I was going to try a patch, but I replaced them with 2226 drivers, and they sound fine to me. I still might try a patch, but I found a surround that should work, and I did find an aftermarket cone kit also. The patch will only work on the front because there isn't enough material on the back to attach it to.

    The pair of E-145s that I have aren't really matching, one has the old style round connectors and the other has the new square ones. The DCR is 5.8 on my good one and 6.4 on the bad one. Hopefully I can find a good used one to match mine. They show up for sale once and a while but everyone wants enough for them. I only paid $200.00 for this pair.

  9. #9
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,626
    Hi Robert,

    No wonder the 2226 sounds fine to you as replacement for the E-145. I did a quick modeling in Winspeakerz software with the 8 cu. ft. box and tuning at 45 hz you were trying to reach (from 47-50hz). Not a bad match in that box.

    At 1 Watt, I get a response of + 1.5 db in the 47-52 hz range, a rising response of about + 1 db above 200 hz or so, an F3 around 40 hz. Forget about cone excursion at this input level, its close to zero (< 1 mm) at relevant frequencies.

    At 600 Watts, I get a response of + 2.5 db in the 47-52 hz range, a rising response of + 2 db above about 200 hz, an F3 around 39 hz and Xmax of 7.62 mm reached around 39 hz! That's a mean beast, to rattle the silver... Powerful bass cabinet, not a subwoofer. With the DAS lens and the rest you can run a small disco...

    The other reason I'm not really surprised it sounds fine to you, is that the small 2226 "natural" bass bump in that cabinet originally designed for the E-145, also "balances" the perceived sound output between the mid-bass rising response and the lows. Regards,

    Richard

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba
    Posts
    279
    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    Hi Robert,

    No wonder the 2226 sounds fine to you as replacement for the E-145. I did a quick modeling in Winspeakerz software with the 8 cu. ft. box and tuning at 45 hz you were trying to reach (from 47-50hz). Not a bad match in that box.

    At 1 Watt, I get a response of + 1.5 db in the 47-52 hz range, a rising response of about + 1 db above 200 hz or so, an F3 around 40 hz. Forget about cone excursion at this input level, its close to zero (< 1 mm) at relevant frequencies.

    At 600 Watts, I get a response of + 2.5 db in the 47-52 hz range, a rising response of + 2 db above about 200 hz, an F3 around 39 hz and Xmax of 7.62 mm reached around 39 hz! That's a mean beast, to rattle the silver... Powerful bass cabinet, not a subwoofer. With the DAS lens and the rest you can run a small disco...

    The other reason I'm not really surprised it sounds fine to you, is that the small 2226 "natural" bass bump in that cabinet originally designed for the E-145, also "balances" the perceived sound output between the mid-bass rising response and the lows. Regards,

    Richard
    I think it sounds the best when I plugged two of the three ports. It's not a huge difference, just slight. My preamp has a 80 Hz high pass filter and that's turned on also. I think it's tuned to around 27 Hz with only one 4" port.

    When I was running the E145s they would bottom out at high volume levels with the high pass filter off. With the 16 ohm 2226H drivers, my 500w McIntosh amp clips before the drivers bottom out.

    I also built a subwoofer with a 2242, it's 8 cubic feet and tuned to 25 Hz. Most of the music that I listen to doesn't need a sub, so I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it hooked up. When I play with my EQ, I like the punch that I get when I turn up the 100 Hz-200 Hz range.

  11. #11
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,626
    Hi Robert,

    I did a quick Winspeakerz check with an Fb of 27 hz as you stated. At 1 Watt input the response is like going downhill progressively (not steeply) in the bass range: e.g. -3 db/70 hz, -4.5 db/50 hz, -6 db/30 hz. Naturally, since you are using a 16 ohm woofer the amp usually puts out less current and power to the woofer at such impedance so it may explain why the amp clips faster. Plugging 2 of the 3 vents isn't a good idea since it tunes the box abnormally low and puts more strain on the woofer, plus reducing 2/3 of the vent surface may create vent noise at higher power... If you really want that type of response curve do it with EQ instead, the bonus will be more amp headroom!

    Richard

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2203H surround replacement
    By Maxwell in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-21-2014, 07:24 PM
  2. Surround replacement
    By Donald in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 03-18-2014, 05:53 PM
  3. 2121s hardened surround,need replacement?
    By takenodisk in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-29-2009, 04:58 AM
  4. Surround Replacement question ....
    By dllyons in forum Lansing Product DIY Forum
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 11-23-2007, 04:10 PM
  5. Wanted: Cone replacement kit for E145-8
    By rehkop in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-07-2007, 09:35 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •