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Thread: help with cabinets preparation specs.

  1. #1
    Senior Member bldozier's Avatar
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    help with cabinets preparation specs.

    hello
    PhaseII@gmail.com
    thanks,

    i'am gather components for a big Jbl, 4344/4343 cabinet build, i do not have any 1" bb local to me
    which means i need to laminate, some i have 0.75" & 0.50" available
    i've decided to use the two for thickness of 1.25"

    i have the numbers down already for my cuts i did not plan to rebate & dado these cabinets,
    i felt if i used trim to act as the dado edge, i can save my self from having to do any profiling
    on them whatsoever just simple glue ups.

    can anyone go over these cuts to be sure i do not over or understep myself at the yard.

    3/4bb 39 1/2 x 15 (4) sides
    1/2bb 1/2 x 1/2 x 15 dado lip for the side profiles (8)
    1/2bb 21 1/2 x 12 15/16 x 1/2 inside dado top/bottom (4)
    1/2bb 38 1/2 x 15 x 1/2 exterior sides (4) this portion fit between trim top to bottom...
    3/4bb 24 1/8 x 15 x 3/4 (4) top/bottom
    3/4 & 1/2 bb 39 1/2 x 22 1/2 x 3/4 baffle/rear (4)
    1/2bb 1/2 x 1/2 x 22 1/2 trim (4) baffle

    its basically a rebated and dado cabinet without any extra milling of the material.
    i hope these numbers are correct if anyone whom as free time would like to go over the
    numbers, to verify i did not build an leaning tower please confirm.
    thanks

  2. #2
    Member
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    May 2015
    Location
    TN, USA
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    You should really draw your design, even if it's just a hand sketch. 2 dimensional of the front and side will suffice, 3 dimensional will help you visualize it better.

    Note your overall dimensions on the drawing, decide how and what type of joints you will use. If you're doing simple butt joints, will your top and bottom be above and below the sides, or will they fit between the sides...? Deduct material thickness accordingly and make a cut sheet with exact dimensions of each piece and the quantity needed.

    The easiest method I've found, when building a simple box, is to cut top, bottom and sides carefully and accurately. Assemble those, then cut front and rear slightly oversized. Attach front and rear, making sure the carcass is square and leaving a slight overhang on all four panels. Once glue has dried, use a flush trim router to size the oversized front and rear panels exactly to the rest of the cabinet. When I laminate 2 panels to make 1 thicker one, I do the same as above as step one. Then take the second layer, cut each piece slightly oversized again, this time it's every panel...adhere, dry, flush trim with router. What you end up with is perfectly flush edges, and doing the laminate process after the first is assembled gives you sort of a half lap joint in each corner making the overall box stronger.

    This, of course, doesn't fully apply if you're doing a recessed baffle, but it can if you build the lip after and attach it to the box...

    Good luck.

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