In a usual purchasing situation, REALISTICALLY, you won't have a lab nor a pile of instruments to test the drivers. But a good quality digital AC/DC multi-meter (easy to find and carry) can be of little help to measure drivers' DC resistance (Re) to see if far off or close to specs. JBL's spec for that 2225H is 6.3 ohms, which may vary a little. Too far off would be a red flag.
Coil rubbing (as mentioned by Lee) is a good indicator of driver damage or poorly executed recone job.
A meticulous visual inspection ALL around (bring a good flashlight) re: dents or cracks in frame or magnet, rear vent foam condition (if any, disintegrating?), cone and surround condition, spider and cone/spider junction condition to look at with light in hand when pushing a bit downwards on dust cap with your other hand, wires and terminal connectors, etc.
Naturally, a listening test of each. However, with no box the bass will be weak (front and back waves cancelling each other) but by pushing it just a little you can confirm it works ok and no coil rubbing heard.
In addition to careful inspection of black glue lines around the dust caps, as mentioned in my previous post, this is where many sellers flunk the test of "original" stuff... That black glue line is normally perfectly smooth all around on original drivers...
Unfortunately, many people lie about the real condition of their gear in order to get rid of it (selling it)... Just remember the 2225 is among the most beaten/reconed driver from the JBL lineup...
That's about the best you can do in REAL life (not an ideal world)!
BTW I agree with Lee when he says "You'll get more bass from the 2225." Though Fs, Qts and Vas are somewhat off for a 4520 type box, more like a second or third best choice in the absence of 2205H or E-140. However, I do disagree strongly with him when he says "The 2220 has a low Qts which should make it more suitable for a horn, but it is an upper midbass driver". The 4520 IS a horn-loaded box, and specs wise the 2220 is even more suitable than 2225 for 4520 use. Also the 2220 is NOT an "upper midbass driver " as he says, but rather a Low-frequency transducer as described by JBL, with even lower Fs (in the "H" version) than a 2225... But the 2220 has a few handicaps re 4520 use in practice: a much too rising response from 150 hz and up for direct radiating front wave, higher Fs, rated only 100W continuous program, and an Xmax of only 2mm in the "A" version, so it won't take the bass beating and field abuse these boxes are subject to. The "H" version of 2220 also has rising response but from about 700 hz, lower Fs, rated at 200W continuous program, but again limited Xmax of 3 mm this time. So H version much better than A version for 4520 use, but still short on Xmax concerning field requirements for bass output and abuse... That's the REAL story, and reason why the K/E-145 was even preferred in some cases over the 2220 for 4520 use considering its low bass output capability (though not recommended by JBL for that use).
Richard