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Thread: To Recone or to Refoam help ?

  1. #1
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    To Recone or to Refoam help ?

    When do I recone ? I don't have any damage to the cone on my old 2235 H the foam around the speakers are damaged but
    what other signs should I look for a recone

    Also my cones feel really stiff I brought these used anyone know if this feeling is normal

    Glenn Cundiff
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  2. #2
    Senior Member grumpy's Avatar
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    define "cones feel really stiff"... (?)

    the paper? (they should), or the remaining suspension? (the
    accordion "spider" is all that is currently holding the voice coil in place)

    Cone should move in 1/4" or so without a lot of pushing (light fingertip pressure)
    and return immediately when released.

    The cone doesn't look cocked/slanted to one side (good).

    If the cones don't move easily or rub, there could be gunk in
    the magnetic gap and/or a burned voice coil (bad).

  3. #3
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    Hi Glenn,

    If you want original performance from the driver you have to recone with original recone kit, or with as good of a reproduction cone kit as you can get (see uplandloudspeaker.com and ask Ken a member here, he's usually quite helpful). If you're not too fussy about original specs/performance then you may refoam by purchasing foam edges that are at least made specifically (dedicated) for the 2235H, not the generic ones for all 15" drivers to increase your chances of success. However, the Vas T/S parameter related to suspension (surround) may be off somewhat which could affect proper box volume number if you want to build a cabinet. Bottom line, its all a matter of money and performance expected.

    By the way, looking at your driver's picture and specifically at the line of black glue around the dust cap, it does not look as nicely made as an original one, so this may indicate the dust cap may have been open in the past to repair something: to put shims because the driver was already refoamed ? To remove Inside foam rot and clean Gap ?

    Look inside the driver's back vent to see the condition of the dust protection foam, you may have to remove all that foam rot Inside by cutting (again?) the dust cap horizontally and carefully just above the line of black glue to have access to the Gap and to the rest of the Inside of the woofer... A close picture of the back of the woofer MAY be interesting to see. Regards,

    Richard

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    Quote Originally Posted by RMC View Post
    By the way, looking at your driver's picture and specifically at the line of black glue around the dust cap, it does not look as nicely made as an original one, so this may indicate the dust cap may have been open in the past to repair something: to put shims because the driver was already refoamed ? To remove Inside foam rot and clean Gap ?
    Glue line looks pretty damn good to me
    Shiny yeah, worked on, most likely but nothing wrong with it

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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    define "cones feel really stiff"... (?)

    the paper? (they should), or the remaining suspension? (the
    accordion "spider" is all that is currently holding the voice coil in place)

    Cone should move in 1/4" or so without a lot of pushing (light fingertip pressure)
    and return immediately when released.

    The cone doesn't look cocked/slanted to one side (good).

    If the cones don't move easily or rub, there could be gunk in
    the magnetic gap and/or a burned voice coil (bad).
    I took a look at the black foam through the air hole on the back there's black foam but it's not damaged do I still need to remove it?
    Also did the test and the cone seems to be in good condition

  6. #6
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    Ask for Ken Haerr

    Give them a call
    Can tell you exactly what you need to do and do it for you too
    As well or better than anyone in the U.S.A. or anywhere for that matter



    Upland Loudspeaker Service

    1042 N. Mountain Avenue, Suite B368
    Upland, California 91786
    909-946-5944
    1-888-990-1049

    Transducers, Selenium

  7. #7
    Senior Member RMC's Avatar
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    Hi Glenn,

    If the foam Inside the back vent is OK, then do as they say: If it ain't broken don't fix it...

    As for Tony's comment about the black glue line around the dust cap "worked on, most likely..", my point was NOT to say it was not nicely made, but only to say it is often an indication that the driver MAY have been worked on maybe for the reasons I mentioned... Sort of a "red flag" that something was done on the driver(good or bad is not the issue at this point).

    Richard

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Sullivan View Post
    Glue line looks pretty damn good to me
    Shiny yeah, worked on, most likely but nothing wrong with it
    I was about to say the same thing, looks fine to me.

    If money is tight and foam rot is the only issue you could get a Rick Cobb foam kit and be sure to affix the surround to the rear of the cone. I've read nothing but good things about his kits....http://www.ebay.com/usr/looneytune2001

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    Senior Member gdmoore28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooky1257 View Post
    I was about to say the same thing, looks fine to me.

    If money is tight and foam rot is the only issue you could get a Rick Cobb foam kit and be sure to affix the surround to the rear of the cone. I've read nothing but good things about his kits....http://www.ebay.com/usr/looneytune2001
    That's what I'd do, too. Replacing the foam surrounds is so easy (and so much fun to do!), it'd be a shame to throw away money when you can do it yourself. But, then, I'm the kind of guy who does everything myself - except recharging the magnets. My attitude is that if some other human being can do it, so can I.

    And, while I've never used any Rick Cobb products, he has a stellar reputation for selling refoam kits made specifically for his customer's projects. He seems to be the guy when it comes to surround kits.

    GeeDeeEmm

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