4315 woofer, please help

[snoopy751]

Have you checked to see if you can pull the cone forward? If you can, without scraping noises, there's a good chance that the foam dust screen on the pole piece broke up and got sucked into the vc gap and has turned to goo, causing the vc to stick in place. If this is the case, it just needs to be disassembled and cleaned. But don't put a new foam dust cap on. I would stop any reconing procedure by the shop if possible til this has been checked first. Otherwise, they'll likely just rip the original out of the basket and maybe destroy a perfectly good, extremely rare and expensive original cone.

This is really what has been ...

[snoopy751]

The latest update :

I was damn so lucky, and this is what has been done with my 2203As.

I was lucky that I found the shop of Speaker Hospital, in Sydney, they have been in this professional business for longer than 30 years. And the guy who dealt with it has more than 20 years experience. They are really good and know what they are doing.

They told me that the woofer is very precious, and they would not simply to replace any part of the woofer. However, since the reform done previously was badly made, and during the transport the clone got stuck inward.

Therefore they have done carefully and pushed the cone forward, however, the spider was damaged during the transportation and can not be repaired. They suggested me to replace with their old vintage spiders which they have been keeping for long time.

I agreed with it, and they also replaced the foam edges (which were not done properly in the first place)

I took back my woofers, and have a listen for a day. I really can't compare with the previous woofers as one of them had no sound since I received the speakers. I am very happy with sound quality.

And thank you everyone for the inputs on this subject

[snoopy751]

[gasfan]

Good news!

[Earl K]

The latest update :

I was damn so lucky, and this is what has been done with my 2203As.

I was lucky that I found the shop of Speaker Hospital, in Sydney, they have been in this professional business for longer than 30 years. And the guy who dealt with it has more than 20 years experience. They are really good and know what they are doing.

They told me that the woofer is very precious, and they would not simply to replace any part of the woofer. However, since the reform done previously was badly made, and during the transport the clone got stuck inward.

Therefore they have done carefully and pushed the cone forward, however, the spider was damaged during the transportation and can not be repaired. They suggested me to replace with their old vintage spiders which they have been keeping for long time.

I agreed with it, and they also replaced the foam edges (which were not done properly in the first place)

I took back my woofers, and have a listen for a day. I really can't compare with the previous woofers as one of them had no sound since I received the speakers. I am very happy with sound quality.

And thank you everyone for the inputs on this subject

Well, that is good news.

It would appear that they have "upped-their-game" and now recognize the uniqueness of JBL's proprietary parts recipes.

[snoopy751]

By the way, what US state were these shipped from?

they shipped from California and the seller told me he bought ftom
Japan long time ago

[mech986]

they shipped from California and the seller told me he bought from
Japan long time ago

These shipped from Irvine then? I saw that ad for a few months, they looked in very nice condition. One woofer had a bit of excess glue on the cone and surround, was that the bad one?

[snoopy751]

These shipped from Irvine then? I saw that ad for a few months, they looked in very nice condition. One woofer had a bit of excess glue on the cone and surround, was that the bad one?

Yes, they are from Irvine, and the excess glue one was the one had a problem.

Due to the age of the speakers, I also spotted out that one of the tweeters is slightly quieter than the other

[bldozier]

Mate your equipment definitely exceeds it reputation
take vast care and exercise in your restoration

maybe be easier to track down donors
for kits then begging to understand how come
they are so expensive to maintain.

I remember them

[snoopy751]

Hello again,

I am thinking to have a measure about the OHM reading of the tweeter 2405 of my 4315 speakers, shall i unscrew the back board to take out the tweeter, or unscrew the mid bass them the tweeter from the front ?

[kelossus]

The latest update :

I was damn so lucky, and this is what has been done with my 2203As.

I was lucky that I found the shop of Speaker Hospital, in Sydney, they have been in this professional business for longer than 30 years. And the guy who dealt with it has more than 20 years experience. They are really good and know what they are doing.

They told me that the woofer is very precious, and they would not simply to replace any part of the woofer. However, since the reform done previously was badly made, and during the transport the clone got stuck inward.

Therefore they have done carefully and pushed the cone forward, however, the spider was damaged during the transportation and can not be repaired. They suggested me to replace with their old vintage spiders which they have been keeping for long time.

I agreed with it, and they also replaced the foam edges (which were not done properly in the first place)

I took back my woofers, and have a listen for a day. I really can't compare with the previous woofers as one of them had no sound since I received the speakers. I am very happy with sound quality.

And thank you everyone for the inputs on this subject

I still dont trust them, anyone can recone or repair a speaker. Building a driver to perform to its original T/S specs using OEM parts is beyond their capability. Only a few people in Australia can do it.

Vintage spiders? They are an off the shelf part. A spider with the compliance of "C" is the correct one to use on the 2203's. I would certainly not pay for 30 year old spiders.

I can't tell from your pictures but is the foam stuck on the front of the cone?

[kelossus]

Hello again,

I am thinking to have a measure about the OHM reading of the tweeter 2405 of my 4315 speakers, shall i unscrew the back board to take out the tweeter, or unscrew the mid bass them the tweeter from the front ?

I did not know you could unscrew the backboard on the 4315's. I don't remember that.

The mid-bass is in a sealed dog box so unscrewing that will be of no help. Same as the mid-high.

If you can not unscrew the backboard (which I don't think you can) you have to take the woofer out and reach up inside to get at the tweeter. Its a pain.

[snoopy751]

I did not know you could unscrew the backboard on the 4315's. I don't remember that.

The mid-bass is in a sealed dog box so unscrewing that will be of no help. Same as the mid-high.

If you can not unscrew the backboard (which I don't think you can) you have to take the woofer out and reach up inside to get at the tweeter. Its a pain.

You are right , the mid mass and mid high are sealed.

[mech986]

The screws on the back actually belong to metal braces on the inside of the back panel - they are for securing hardware to "fly" or suspend the speakers (monitors) if needed - all the medium to large monitors are so equipped. So those screws will not provide any better access to the interior. I agree that an access panel in the back like used in 4333 and 434x monitors (primarily for access to heavy horn drivers and tweeters) would have been nice.

You'll need some long arms to reach the tweeter from the woofer. Might be a good idea to put a thick pillow-like pad inside and under the tweeter if you can't reach it so when you unscrew the tweeter, it falls softly (but don't let it bounce). Putting it back in though would be another issue.

I vote to check the midranges first by moving them side to side. Do you know if the previous owner had done any work (changing diaphragms or replacing/reconing midrange) or midbass?

[snoopy751]

The screws on the back actually belong to metal braces on the inside of the back panel - they are for securing hardware to "fly" or suspend the speakers (monitors) if needed - all the medium to large monitors are so equipped. So those screws will not provide any better access to the interior. I agree that an access panel in the back like used in 4333 and 434x monitors (primarily for access to heavy horn drivers and tweeters) would have been nice.

You'll need some long arms to reach the tweeter from the woofer. Might be a good idea to put a thick pillow-like pad inside and under the tweeter if you can't reach it so when you unscrew the tweeter, it falls softly (but don't let it bounce). Putting it back in though would be another issue.

I vote to check the midranges first by moving them side to side. Do you know if the previous owner had done any work (changing diaphragms or replacing/reconing midrange) or midbass?

Thank you all for the inputs, I will check the midranges as suggested.

"Do you know if the previous owner had done any work (changing diaphragms or replacing/reconing midrange) or mid bass" - I did ask and below was what he replied

"I bought them from Japan long time ago and have good time with them, I check all unit they are original and work will"