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  1. #1
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    Musically subwoofer?

    Hello,

    I will have finished my stereo speaker projekt soon and I might want to add a real subwoofer to the system.
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...amp-E145-build

    I would prefer a sealed enclosure of about 3cubic feet....
    I was thinking about the W15gti automotive speaker or the 2256g as the Sub1500 and W1500 aren`t available any longer.
    But does the W15gti e.g. 2256g sound good on music?
    Or are these only one-note subwoofers suited for home-theater?
    Are there any real alternatives from JBL that are still available?

    Besides that, I have considered the Aurasound NS18-992-4A.
    It seems to be highly regarded and the motor-design is simply amazing. But a heavy membrane of 400gr mms seems too much to me for a good sounding woofer!?

    Thanks a lot,
    Olaf

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    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...kage--300-7200

    I have a friend who recently received a review sample of one of these for evaluation and measurement for an upcoming magazine article. It measured and sounded very good. 4 cubic foot sealed box. You can also buy just the woofer/amp and build a matching box (or 2) for your system.

    Your project looks great btw.

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    I use a W15GTi in 4 cu ft and it sounds nice to me. You need lots of power, preferably into 12 ohms. (It's either 3 ohms or 12 ohms.) However, even it does not go as low as linearly as my Sunfire Signature. Together, they make a potent pair.

    Teamed with the 2235 on the other side of the cabinet (in 6 cu ft) they make a very powerful trio, even with the 2235 padded down by 8 ohms in this configuration (~7 ohms combined impedience). Without the padding, the 2235 adds too much boom.


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    Define your woofers capabilities

    See the thread named "JBL K140" in the "Lansing product DIY Forum" (which is THIS forum). Look for the patent granted to K.E.Stahl. Look for doctordate, he has done PCBs for such a project.

    Basically the effective loudspeaker parameters are modified by electronic means.

    Ruediger

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    @rusty jefferson: Thanks a lot for your effort you put in the tables!


    Quote Originally Posted by Ruediger View Post
    See the thread named "JBL K140" in the "Lansing product DIY Forum" (which is THIS forum). Look for the patent granted to K.E.Stahl. Look for doctordate, he has done PCBs for such a project.

    Basically the effective loudspeaker parameters are modified by electronic means.

    Ruediger
    I have had a look on this but I believe I´m not familiar enough with all these parameters to really understand it.
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...light=jbl+k140

    So far I understood this is no simple EQing, rather it is a manipulation of the drivers parameter with an electronical filter before the amplifier.

    One questions comes to mind; how does this affect the drivers output capacities in terms of spl ?

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    Senior Member berga12's Avatar
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    8"or10" can go down to 20-30hz but due to poor efficiency maybe you need 4-6 of them.

    And you need expensive audiophile subwoofer....

    you spend less with a single 15 or 18".

    if you have aurasound ns18 give him a try!

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    Senior Member berga12's Avatar
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    From the other side consider also that....more X max means Less Efficiency means more Watt to drive the loudspeaker and more distorsion.

    I'm sure that the Aurasound is wonderfull speakers, the price is also not popular.

    For an Home usage, your system (I'm speaking about 3 way one...) can be driven with a power from 1Watt to 12Watt with an Output > than 100db 1W 1m.

    This Means, that It's enough to put 200W amplifier on a Single or dual 2245h (I would go with Single due to space need...) and The imput could be a combination L+R fully Active, and the main system fully passive without any High pass filter.

    even if the 2245 have an average of 90-92db (I think more....) you can easily meet the same output as the main system without any problem, and you are able to shake your house if you want, or Just listen really clean without distortion at 100-105db output (definitively not a low volume...)

    More over, you have a piece of history and a full JBL system. You can also try other speakers, for example M2 speakers 2216Nd, in 140L can go as low as 20hz...and many other in the market without the need of running a 18".

    Pay attention on the subwoofer speed....you have a really quick response front stage...maybe one of the quickest 15"...





    beside that...I also Love the NS18

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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty jefferson View Post
    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...kage--300-7200

    I have a friend who recently received a review sample of one of these for evaluation and measurement for an upcoming magazine article. It measured and sounded very good. 4 cubic foot sealed box. You can also buy just the woofer/amp and build a matching box (or 2) for your system.......
    The article became available today at audioXpress. You can download just the one issue if you like. Worth the purchase. Thorough article with measurements.
    http://www.audioxpress.com/article/g...-now-available

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    Define reqd bandwidth

    You should 1st define the required frequency range for the subwoofer, from lowest frequency to highest.

    Ruediger

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.db View Post
    I would prefer a sealed enclosure of about 3cubic feet....
    I was thinking about the W15gti automotive speaker or the 2256g as the Sub1500 and W1500 aren`t available any longer.
    But does the W15gti e.g. 2256g sound good on music?
    Yes. You will likely need lots of EQ in a 3 cubic foot cabinet though. If you can, 3-4 W10GTi's distributed around the room and properly equalized will sound better in room

    Another car woofer you may want to look at is the Rockford Fosgate 19".

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.db View Post
    Besides that, I have considered the Aurasound NS18-992-4A.
    It seems to be highly regarded and the motor-design is simply amazing. But a heavy membrane of 400gr mms seems too much to me for a good sounding woofer!?
    Not an issue. It's quite a bit "faster" than most 18" subs. Just look at how high it can play!

  11. #11
    Senior Member baldrick's Avatar
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    My experince is that Aurasound NS15/18 is as good as IT gets... I'm planning om buying 8xNS18 to replace my 4xJBL 4645 (2258)

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    Thanks a lot for your input guys!

    The required bandwith would be 25-100hz.
    I have to deal with a monosubwoofer, allthough Im aware of the benefit of multiple subs spread in the room.

    What enclosure would you recommend for the W15gti if soundquality is the priority?

    What enclosure would be appropriate for the Aurasound?

    Does the Dayton really keep up with the Aurasound or is it just a cheap alternative with less qualitiy?

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    I did 4 cu ft, but is probably not optimum. In fact, this is probably about the smallest recommended enclosure. Run the Thiele Small parameters through WinISF. They are available in the JBL literature.

  14. #14
    Senior Member berga12's Avatar
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    a pro 18" with a Fs around 28-30hz not so heavy, and use a class D (quality ones...) with good amount of power.

    I could say 2245h, but I never ear in my life one...

    not below 18" for your speakers setup, and not a GTI.......yes tunderstorm but not quick enough. you need Speed to be "glued" to yours E145.

  15. #15
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    I´m still wondering which driver to buy...

    Either two jbl w15gti or one Aurasound NS18.
    Which one does sound better with music ?

    The enclosure will be 6,5 cubic ft total.

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