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Thread: Musically subwoofer?

  1. #1
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    Musically subwoofer?

    Hello,

    I will have finished my stereo speaker projekt soon and I might want to add a real subwoofer to the system.
    http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...amp-E145-build

    I would prefer a sealed enclosure of about 3cubic feet....
    I was thinking about the W15gti automotive speaker or the 2256g as the Sub1500 and W1500 aren`t available any longer.
    But does the W15gti e.g. 2256g sound good on music?
    Or are these only one-note subwoofers suited for home-theater?
    Are there any real alternatives from JBL that are still available?

    Besides that, I have considered the Aurasound NS18-992-4A.
    It seems to be highly regarded and the motor-design is simply amazing. But a heavy membrane of 400gr mms seems too much to me for a good sounding woofer!?

    Thanks a lot,
    Olaf

  2. #2
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    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...kage--300-7200

    I have a friend who recently received a review sample of one of these for evaluation and measurement for an upcoming magazine article. It measured and sounded very good. 4 cubic foot sealed box. You can also buy just the woofer/amp and build a matching box (or 2) for your system.

    Your project looks great btw.

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    I use a W15GTi in 4 cu ft and it sounds nice to me. You need lots of power, preferably into 12 ohms. (It's either 3 ohms or 12 ohms.) However, even it does not go as low as linearly as my Sunfire Signature. Together, they make a potent pair.

    Teamed with the 2235 on the other side of the cabinet (in 6 cu ft) they make a very powerful trio, even with the 2235 padded down by 8 ohms in this configuration (~7 ohms combined impedience). Without the padding, the 2235 adds too much boom.


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    Define reqd bandwidth

    You should 1st define the required frequency range for the subwoofer, from lowest frequency to highest.

    Ruediger

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.db View Post
    I would prefer a sealed enclosure of about 3cubic feet....
    I was thinking about the W15gti automotive speaker or the 2256g as the Sub1500 and W1500 aren`t available any longer.
    But does the W15gti e.g. 2256g sound good on music?
    Yes. You will likely need lots of EQ in a 3 cubic foot cabinet though. If you can, 3-4 W10GTi's distributed around the room and properly equalized will sound better in room

    Another car woofer you may want to look at is the Rockford Fosgate 19".

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.db View Post
    Besides that, I have considered the Aurasound NS18-992-4A.
    It seems to be highly regarded and the motor-design is simply amazing. But a heavy membrane of 400gr mms seems too much to me for a good sounding woofer!?
    Not an issue. It's quite a bit "faster" than most 18" subs. Just look at how high it can play!

  6. #6
    Senior Member baldrick's Avatar
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    My experince is that Aurasound NS15/18 is as good as IT gets... I'm planning om buying 8xNS18 to replace my 4xJBL 4645 (2258)

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    Thanks a lot for your input guys!

    The required bandwith would be 25-100hz.
    I have to deal with a monosubwoofer, allthough Im aware of the benefit of multiple subs spread in the room.

    What enclosure would you recommend for the W15gti if soundquality is the priority?

    What enclosure would be appropriate for the Aurasound?

    Does the Dayton really keep up with the Aurasound or is it just a cheap alternative with less qualitiy?

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    I did 4 cu ft, but is probably not optimum. In fact, this is probably about the smallest recommended enclosure. Run the Thiele Small parameters through WinISF. They are available in the JBL literature.

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    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.db View Post
    Thanks a lot for your input guys!

    The required bandwith would be 25-100hz.
    I have to deal with a monosubwoofer, allthough Im aware of the benefit of multiple subs spread in the room.
    100Hz is quite high for a home subwoofer. Anything over 60Hz can easily be located by ears. Most subs are cut below 50Hz.

    Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee in Montreal View Post
    100Hz is quite high for a home subwoofer.
    With competent integration of multiple subwoofers, 120Hz is fine. If you blend the subs into the mains (i.e. run the mains full-range and fold the subs in) then up to 150Hz can be optimum for smooth FR and max headroom without localization issues.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    According to the OP, he intends to use a single sub. If crossed at 120Hz, then that sub will have to be exactly between the two other speakers. Otherwise one side will sound more "meaty" than the other... BTW 120Hz is the frequency where the kick drum is felt. Imbalance can be annoying...

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    Actually the THX standard calls for an 80 Hz cutoff.

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    Senior Member Lee in Montreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    Actually the THX standard calls for an 80 Hz cutoff.
    How many main systems start being weak at 80Hz? Computer speakers? ;-)

    I have no clue how others use their subs, but in my case, I want to feel them. Not hear them. I use them between 20 and 50Hz to add a bit of thump. In my case, 80Hz is way too high as it adds bass that I can hear, not bass that I can feel. ;-)

    Lee

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    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    Actually the THX standard calls for an 80 Hz cutoff.
    The THX standard was a crude rule of thumb before we could easily measure acoustic effects and didn't have cheap and easy-to-use DSP to integrate subwoofers with mains.

  15. #15
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    I like crossing over to subs at 50 Hz, and I also like sub boxes larger than 3 cu ft., infinitely larger in fact (pun intended). I don't care how well it's made or how low it goes, a 3 cu ft box is going to sound like a 3 cu ft box.

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