Thanks a lot for those nice pictures
Have you compared a 5 cubic-ft. enclosure with a 6 cubic-ft. ?
Does the 2235h hast enough mechanical damping in the bigger enclosure?
What tuning-freq. did you use with the 6 cubic-ft ones?
Thanks a lot for those nice pictures
Have you compared a 5 cubic-ft. enclosure with a 6 cubic-ft. ?
Does the 2235h hast enough mechanical damping in the bigger enclosure?
What tuning-freq. did you use with the 6 cubic-ft ones?
The 6cf enclosure for single JBL 2235H for a 25Hz tune had a 5.5" round x 12.75" long vent. I built that as 2 drivers in their own enclosed volume in one enclosure.
The 5cf enclosure for single JBL 2235H for a 25Hz tune had a 5.5" round x 16.13" long vent. I built those similar to a S7+ system in a vertical configuration.
It was hard to discern any difference between them, as they were built a couple of years apart and used in different rooms. They both provided very good bass in the rooms they were in. But, the 5cf systems had the 2235H in a 3-way configuration crossing at 650Hz on top. The 6cf system was a dedicated sub that crossed at 80Hz. I did build a few larger enclosures around 8cf that only required a 5.5 round vent x 8.6" long. They had a better efficiency on the very bottom. However, all of these systems started dropping off around 30Hz. They still had good output, but they did loose 6dB or more by 25Hz.
The JBL 2245H in a 8cf cabinet tuned to 25Hz is similar to a 2235H in a 5cf with slightly less extension at the lowest frequency. In a 12cf box the 2245H has a much better advantage reaching lower with less effort. (2-5.5" vents x 12.75" long) With any of these I feel you need to add a LF cut off to prevent possible damage to the driver. There are many ways to acquire real bass and many drivers to do it with. I have used PS1400, PSW-D115, 4645, 3635, HTPS400, B380, B460, and many others. Several are better than those we have discussed, but I like the sound and performance of an all JBL system built with drivers and components that I can afford, (or have on hand). I have quite a few older systems stored in my shop, as well as a few older systems I built in the past.
Thatīs a great collection I have to admit!
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience.
Dr. db,
I had the good fortune to pick up another JBL HTPS400 yesterday on eBay. It was a great deal at only $200 BIN + shipping. I hit the button and sent a "Pack and pad it well" message to the seller. Hopefully it will arrive with no damage. It is smaller and lighter than many of the items I have purchased and had shipped to me recently. I will add it to the small system in my den as the old Sony 10" Sub that was purchased 14 years ago as a temp fill in quit on me.
The first picture in the previous message showed some of the speakers "stored" in my shop. That as only the right side, I actually have all of those in stereo pairs. What you can see are: (2-JBL 3635 18" subs on an Ashley FTW2001 Mosfet amp bridged for 1200w, S38, L222, L80T, L100T3, 4722, 4628B). There are also 4648, 4612, L7, L5, L3, L1, S36, CL505, 4645, PSW-D115, PSW-112, PS1400, HTPS400, HTPS300, 8400, L112, L150, L65, L200, L300, L166, L212, L20T, L18, L20T3, L88, S1, S36, S412P, S2, S105, 4425, 4602, others. Those in the picture are hooked up to switcher and amps, so they can be switched in and out to listen to in my shop.
The next picture shows some of the L7's and L5's I had in a media room 9.4 system using L7's as mains and custom made center along with the l5's as side, surrounds, and rears. I used three PSW-D115's around the room with the dual 2235H sub in front under the center channel using the drivers from a pair of L7's. The next picture is of 12cf sub boxes made for the 2245H woofers I mentioned earlier. The side is off so you can see some of the internal bracing. It is arranged to divide the interior into non-divisible areas to decrease resonance or baffle vibrations. The enclosures were overlaid with another layer of MDF before being covered with a veneer. The last picture is of another enclosure I built for a dual 2240H three chamber 6th order bandpass. I built several others for 15" drivers. I tried many things - some actually worked. I did best when I followed the advice of many of the members of this site, but it was fun to try a few wild ideas too.
My last build was a mod of the 4345 - kind of. I used the 2245H, 2202H, 2441, 5309, 076/077 and a poorly design passive crossover. (About 7' tall and over 600 pounds each. 1.5" to 2.25" walls) I later changed that to active crossovers and amps. I am still working on that one. I probably need to change the old style Hartsfield upper mid horn and lens for something a few decades newer. I am looking a several MF drivers and tweeters now.
For some reason only some of the pictures get posted....
@Ruediger:
I have tried these 3,3ohms resistors just in front of my speaker inputs.
The sound was different, but didnīt really cut it
Iīm still missing lows so I will be changing the E-145 to something else....
Dr. dB.
Did you find another woofer to try in your system yet? I have LE14A, LE14H, LE15A, 2235H, and several other 15" JBL LF drivers if you are interested in trying them out. I know that you have built a beautiful set of enclosures and are just trying to find that LF driver to compliment the other components and enclosure that you have. Perhaps you could build a quick and dirty 5~6 cf box out of MDF with a removable front baffle to accommodate different LF drivers. A LF driver adaptor plate and another for the port could be incorporated into that baffle. Then you could R&R various LF drivers and modify the port length and volume to find the LF driver that suits the performance and sound characteristics you are seeking. You could place it next to your completed enclosures, or even build a small temporary enclosure to hold your HF drivers to place on top of it to preserve the setback and height of your current system. That way you would be able to contrast and compare the sound of you current enclosure and drivers to that of the test setup and drivers. I have done this in the past to assemble comparative speaker systems while trying out different drivers and components before building the final finished enclosure. Sometimes I was just trying to find a way to get the sound (components) I wanted in a an enclosure that would fit in the real estate (area) that was available.
AudioFan
Dear Audiofan,
thanks a lot for your very kind offer, but unfortunatelly Iīm not located in the U.S.
The german forum-member gibber has allready offered me to try some of his woofers though.
Right now Iīm thinking about the following 15`s:
JBL 2235 (well known but limited xmech)
TAD 1603 (expensive but probably the best)
Beyma 15LX60 (cheap but good reputation)
JBL LE14H-3 (similar to 2235 but a little smaller)
But LE14H-3 is very hard to find, most distributors wonīt sell these.
Dr. db,
I have owned and used all but the Beyma woofers in various projects. I think that the JBL 2235H and TAD 1603 will be the best options for the enclosures you have built. In a properly designed and engineered enclosure, the JBL 2235H X(max) is more than sufficient to reproduce very high levels of LF energy. I know that I have seen graphs someplace on this site showing specific output levels of this driver at low frequencies. Also, your room showing your pictures of with your enclosures does not appear to be a very large volume. I would think that the "room gain" with a couple of 2235H drivers in a good box and a couple hundred watts per driver would allow realistic LF output even with very loud musical or movie sound tracks. The 2235H can handle well over their rated power for brief periods, and with a 90dB/M/W sensitivity they can put out a prodigious amount of bass and still retain the ability to blend with a midrange. I saw a thread on a pair of B380 clones being built that might interest you: (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...BL-B380-Clones).
Good Luck,
AudioFan
if you want a full JBL system go with 2235h biamp....could be also passive biamp... don't worry about x-mech.
if you want one of the best go with TAD 1603, for me is one of the best driver in the 15" range.
Have you compared both?Originally Posted by berga12
How do they differ in sound and output?
@ Audiofan:
Iīm shure the 2235 is capable of very high output.
Just wondering if the 1603 is any better...
No direct comparison as I've 4x2235 and the 1603 was single in 170lt tuned 27hz
seems more efficient,quicker a bit, nice low end,modulation wonderfull.
gives a bit more punch
Sounds pretty nice, if I get the chance I give them a try.
Check out Scott Fitlin's (RIP) #8 >> comments from (http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ers-Help/page6)
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