any adhesive for this?

[pyonc]

Hi friends,

I've got a JBL SE400S in near mint condition, working perfect. I'm using this one to run mid/high drive for 4343 in biamp mode at the moment.
Its only defect is the top metal cover hanging loose inside (see pic), clearly caused in the course of its long journey from the mid-1960s.
Do you have any idea on fastening this cover? I've thought of dissembling it and applying some strong glues to bond it, but stopped.
As an alternative, I'm thinking of using some strong magnetic adhesive, so it can just hold tight one end of the loose cover and the underneath of the top cover.
Do you have any better idea? Thanks for your feedback and advice, as always.

[Joseph Smith Jr]

Need to see what sort of attaching lip or area is available on the other side to make any meaningful suggestion
Unless of course someone here has already seen it and is familiar
I wouldn't introduce anything magnetic to the mix that wasn't intended to be there, even something with a small force

Based on what I don't know and what little I can see, that's a good candidate for contact cement applied carefully with a brush

[gasfan]

Gotta be something else loose on the other side that needs to be reattached.

[pyonc]

Need to see what sort of attaching lip or area is available on the other side to make any meaningful suggestion
Unless of course someone here has already seen it and is familiar
I wouldn't introduce anything magnetic to the mix that wasn't intended to be there, even something with a small force

Based on what I don't know and what little I can see, that's a good candidate for contact cement applied carefully with a brush

Thanks for your kind reply. I didn't know about this 'contact cement'.
Let me try it one of these days, after some more thinking.

[Joseph Smith Jr]

Thanks for your kind reply. I didn't know about this 'contact cement'.
Let me try it one of these days, after some more thinking.

If it's not just simply a matter of loose hardware, this is what you need
Apply with a brush, a good thick film to both pieces - it will hold that screen indefinitely
There are simple instructions on the can
I used it to attach an actual structure, an above board individual bias adjust board I built, to the top of an old tube amp I didn't want to drill holes in

[pyonc]

If it's not just simply a matter of loose hardware, this is what you need
Apply with a brush, a good thick film to both pieces - it will hold that screen indefinitely
There are simple instructions on the can
I used it to attach an actual structure, an above board individual bias adjust board I built, to the top of an old tube amp I didn't want to drill holes in

Thanks!

[richluvsound]

Not contact cement if theres any heat .... try here http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/


Richard

[pyonc]

Not contact cement if theres any heat .... try here http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/


Richard

Thanks for your suggestion! Looks like this is a better remedy.
A very sticky double-sided tape may do.

[Tim Rinkerman]

Hot glue gun

[Joseph Smith Jr]

There will not be enough heat generated by your amp for there to be any concern when using the specific contact cement I recommended for your intended purpose

Service Temperature Range: -40°F to 180°F (-40°C to 82°C) Sightly lower for the product when bottled for the consumer in the tiny little bottles:
Service Temperature: -40°F to 150°F
don't buy it in those little brown bottles anyway, it is usually older inventory and stale as most home owner type folks don't understand it or buy it and it cost almost if not more than 1/2 the price of a 32 ounce can which will be fresh as the contractors use it in the larger sizes

If you wish to allow yourself to be worried over nothing by others, then use epoxy with all the extra work, mess and time that entails
Double sided tape? Hot glue?
And then say you need to worry over heat?
That's so contradictory it's silly

When I first suggested it I also explained that I had used it to attach a bias adjust module I built to the top of a tube amp chassis
Right next to, as in closer to than an inch, (4) output tubes dissiating approx. 70-75 watts and a power transformer
It is all attached to a cigar box spacer made of wood and cemented directly to the bare chassis
There are 5 pin jack sockets on the board, one for each tube and one socket for ground as well as 4, 1/2 turn pots
That is where you take and make your measurements and adjustments with the weight of your test leads hanging off the board
I check bias evrytime I fire the amp up
3 years and gets more solid everyday

If your amp is throwing off enough heat to undo a cured contact cement joint then it's your fire insurance premium you need to be worrying over, not what glue to use to tack a chimney screen back in place

Best of luck with your project

[Joseph Smith Jr]

Not contact cement if theres any heat .... try here http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/


Richard

http://www.dap.com/products/adhesives/industrial/