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  1. #1
    Senior Member Kalle's Avatar
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    M2 DIYing constrution

    Hi!

    I have almost all the stuff for starting my projekt. WG, D2, 2216nd and amps. Amps will be Crown CTS4200 with BSS DSP.
    But I`m not sure what way to go with the box. How important is the rounded edges of the box? Will a baffle with sides change it`s sound significantly? It should be easier building with sides overlapped and the baffel a couple of mm in.
    But a positive thing sticking to the original design is that the grilles now are awaible so I don`t have to build them to. Leaving the problem to get the rounded shape of the baffle under the 2216.

    Anyone used this? http://jaspertools.com/model-240-circle-guide/

    If I think subs will be needed I`m thinking of two BMS 18n862 in sealed enclusures. http://www.bmsspeakers.com/fileadmin...ta_2012-02.pdf
    http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=driver&id=51
    http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=112

    Comparisations:
    http://www.data-bass.com/systems

    Regards
    Kalle

  2. #2
    Obsolete
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalle View Post
    Doesn't everyone?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalle View Post
    Hi!

    I have almost all the stuff for starting my projekt. WG, D2, 2216nd and amps. Amps will be Crown CTS4200 with BSS DSP.
    But I`m not sure what way to go with the box. How important is the rounded edges of the box? Will a baffle with sides change it`s sound significantly? It should be easier building with sides overlapped and the baffel a couple of mm in.
    But a positive thing sticking to the original design is that the grilles now are awaible so I don`t have to build them to. Leaving the problem to get the rounded shape of the baffle under the 2216.

    Anyone used this? http://jaspertools.com/model-240-circle-guide/

    If I think subs will be needed I`m thinking of two BMS 18n862 in sealed enclusures. http://www.bmsspeakers.com/fileadmin...ta_2012-02.pdf
    http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=driver&id=51
    http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=112

    Comparisations:
    http://www.data-bass.com/systems

    Regards
    Kalle
    Speakerexchange sells JBL 2269h for about $1100 each. It would be cooler to have the DIY M2-sub with you DIY M2:s, wouldnt it?!

  4. #4
    Senior Member hsosdrum's Avatar
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    I don't know if the rounded edges impact performance, but I can tell you that the baffle step between the woofer mounting panel and the port opening panel is there to improve response in the 500Hz region. This was told to me by Alan Devantier, the engineer who was responsible for the M2's enclosure design and system integration. I do not know how audible or measurable this response improvement is—my personal feeling is that since it makes the enclosure more complex and expensive to manufacture, the improvement must have been worthwhile. The baffle step is NOT cosmetic.

    FYI, Alan left Harman some time in 2013 to become (I believe) the chief audio engineer at Samsung.

  5. #5
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    That kind of baffle step can be seen on other JBL speakers, like K2 S9800 and S9900.

  6. #6
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    WG bolting

    Kalle: Can you share the coordinates for the WG mounting holes?

  7. #7
    Senior Member srm51555's Avatar
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    Great work Kalle!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Kalle's Avatar
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    Johanwholst: They will be white 0500-n. It`s modern they say

    Robert: I think they could help with that after summer. They have had a lot of work this season. I don`t think orange would do it for my wife Lets not dance with the devil

    Can anyone tell me what is the thread of the D2-driver?

    Next week I get them from paint.



    /Kalle

  9. #9
    Senior Member srm51555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalle View Post
    Can anyone tell med what is the thread of the D2-driver?
    The thread is 1/4-20. JBL uses studs as shown here. I used Bolts when mounting mine.

    I can't wait to see yours in white, I was also kicking around this color for mine.

    Thanks,
    Scott

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    Quote Originally Posted by bubbleboy76 View Post
    Speakerexchange sells JBL 2269h for about $1100 each. It would be cooler to have the DIY M2-sub with you DIY M2:s, wouldnt it?!
    Would do provide me a link please because I don't see any info on Speakerexchance's site .. Thanks

  11. #11
    Senior Member srm51555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxserg View Post
    Would do provide me a link please because I don't see any info on Speakerexchance's site .. Thanks
    I couldn't find anything either, you may want to call them.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxserg View Post
    Would do provide me a link please because I don't see any info on Speakerexchance's site .. Thanks
    It is not on their site. I got this quote from them after asking them by mail.

  13. #13
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    I would've not used MDF though... Heavy and frigile...
    CNC is nice but... Too easy...

  14. #14
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    Great work Kalle! Looks familiar

    When you say take down the baffle, you mean the edge overhang? If you take it down will you not see the gap on upper side of WG?

    I primed mine first white. It looked alright, but I think you will grow tired of it. Black with a tint of gray is my tip

  15. #15
    Senior Member Kalle's Avatar
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    Another Jig is this: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Fraszirkel-Ob...ht_6751wt_1008
    But I guess the jasper is a better choice.

    Bubbleboy: Ofcourse 2269 would be nice But they will cost 3 times more than the BMS and I think the result will be simular. The 2269 cost extra with shipping, tax and duty. The BMS I can get 2 for around 1050euro ink shipping.


    Regarding the baffle step I don`t know how to do it with reasonable work and a ok result. Most likley I skip it and do a simular construction as the other DIYers.
    My first plan was to paint the boxes in high glossy white but now I thinking of black because I will use them in my HT.

    Regards
    Karl

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