Hi im interested in the wood effect over the mdf, I have choosen aromatic eastern red cedar.
However, with using the paper or wood backed veener the application of paste or gel contact cement, seems messy
Would I see any benefit from using the 1/8 or 1/4" thick red cedar with 45 degree miter cuts over a veener,
Any pro an cons 1 vs the other thanks. I will anticipate your responses
Brian.
I just used wood glue and a roller for my veneer. It wasn't too messy at all.Originally Posted by bldozier
DIY Array, 2242 sub, 4408, 4208, Control 8SR, E120 Guitar cab, Control 1, LSR305.
Cedar is awfully soft. Especially applied to heavy cabs. It will be a feat to prevent damage. I would highly recommend a hardwood veneer regardless how thick. If you insist on cedar, go with thicker than veneer for sure.
As per Gasfan cedar would be my last choice. I just got done using paper backed Walnut veneer on my cabs with Gel coat contact adhesive and it was very easy.
Maybe after the surge of variations of temp and humidity, the veener would be a optimal choice, these cabinets are sitting very close to my not so tight closing living roo windows, I also allow a breeze to airrate my space all year, rain, snow, 80 degree plus weather.
The airomatic red is 1/8 or 1/4 inch, the place would allow me a 45 degree miter cut on the required parts, backs excluded.
So if I were to yeld the cedar wood in favor of a more ridgidity inclined wood, any pros and cons. Other then as mentioned its overall composition I strength
On a note I guess if separation occurred in the time span of the model,
They could be brought into a carpenter or woodworking professional for
Expert joinery, after the fact. But I guess without plausible information
In degradation, before hand its trial an error. But again why is veener any better then using
Its thicker all wood counterpart
It's cheaper. Also, I would submit less susceptible to warping due to expansion and contraction as it absorbs and releases humidity.
The upside might be that you could re-finish them later as there would be enough 'meat' to sand them down.
DIY Array, 2242 sub, 4408, 4208, Control 8SR, E120 Guitar cab, Control 1, LSR305.
Because you can "book match"
Because you will never achieve a degree of "it looks like it grew there" with the 1/4" you suggest with the skills you have (or better, don't)
Because it's lighter
Because it's easier to work with
Because the 1/8" or 1/4" cuts will never conform to the surface irregularities of your cabs unless you possess some really nice planers
Because the thicker the (finish) wood, the more susceptible it will be to possible splitting, checking, warping and separations from the substrate just to mention a few
Because even if you managed to pull it off in a way that it looked decent, it's overkill and you haven't accomplished anything except making your cabs heavier and a little bigger than they were; of all the veneers available, I cannot imagine anyone wanting to use Cedar on a pair of speakers? But to each his own I guess as far as aesthetic matters go (I'm just not a fan of the Cedar blanket chest look on anything)
With all the natural knots and the like in it, can you even get it in a traditional veneer?
Most importantly, because you do not have the skills or the tools to pull this off in a professional looking manner using 1/8" or 1/4" sheets. I say this because you came here to ask the question, if you had any real advanced wood working skill and knowledge that would not be the case, you'd be able to decide for yourself.
NOT intended to insult you, just telling it like it is, don't spend a lot of money and just wind up with a big mess on your hands
Best of luck with your project whatever you decide,
Thomas Wagner
Depends on the variety, whether he uses heartwood or sap wood and how it is prepared
Has the POTENTIAL of being incredibly strong and durable
Still wouldn't choose it for what this OP suggests
Using thicker wood-over-mdf is an issue related different expansion rates. The bond between the types of material is subject to breakup. The discussion above hints that this may be problem and you mention the environment is rather stable as to temp and humidity. I am not so sure that even in a stable climate this is the best idea.
David F
San Jose
Environmentally this is where the two differ, the expansion and contraction of the substrate is my doom, however would metal hardware dissipate this movement along with added bracing?
I was not planning on using any I the construction of the cabinets just wood glue.
Trying to get the kit on the road, im not wainting to be an authorized retal center just looking for superb
Quality, I spoke with the custom miller and 1/4 sheets cut with a 45 degree bias would be no problem.
The choice of red cedsr however is, since sheets do not come in a thickness of over 9 inches if I remeber, but other variations are available in that width. This leaves joinery between the substrate and medium, being a wood working glue,contact cement, or if allowable a industrial type adhesive.
Can any recommend an industrial application that would allow for minimal separation in different weather environments, please school me.
What about somthing lieka jb wood weld epoxy?
What it the worst that can happen if the cedar splits due to expansion/contraction? The speaker still works (assuming the MDF inner cabinet stays intact) and you have a cosmetic issue to obsess over or ignore. Is a crack a flaw or a feature? Using tongue & grove planks to allow for expansion would be easy but probably not the look you want.
Ignoring the veneer option, and recognizing that cross-grain expansion is generally greater than along the grain, I would try to anchor the cedar along the front edge of the cabinet and allow the rest to float so that the rear edge can move. Obviously this reduces the cedar to a decorative facade that you could rip off the cabinet relatively easily. I would also seal (polyurethane?) both sides (and all edges) of the cedar to try to minimize the effect of humidity changes.
A layer of 2-part epoxy between the MDF and cedar would probably immobilize the cedar...but that sounds like really messy job that water won't clean up.
I was always taught that a properly glued joint is stronger than the wood. I don't think adhesion will be your problem, if any.
Just go for it! Maybe make sure that the cedar you are using is properly dried and then seal it when you have the finish on. That should help eliminate the transfer of moisture.
DIY Array, 2242 sub, 4408, 4208, Control 8SR, E120 Guitar cab, Control 1, LSR305.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote