Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: JBL woofer clicking noise help

  1. #1
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146

    JBL woofer clicking noise help

    I was pretty excited to find a youtube video that plays descending frequencies (all the way down to 1 hz!) I was more amazed that my L100T woofers visually moved all the way down to 1hertz!

    But alas, one woofer makes a (strange?) clicking noise between 16hz-12hz. From manual manipulation there doesn't appear to be misalignment, but I don't move them like electricity does.

    I unmounted the woofer and was horrified by how very small, yet very pregnant, the spider (actual living spider) was traversing the cone! Otherwise, the actual spider seemed in proper order, no wires were in the woofer's way, the surround is intact but only has maybe a year left before crumbling sets in.

    So questions:

    1) what is making the clicking noise?
    2) given that as (thankfully y'all have pointed out in the past) the surround is glued onto the wrong side of the cone, I have no place in Austin that can resurround or recone (and y'all may remember I'm quite bad at preforming that operation). I have quite a few pairs of other woofers needing those same services. Pleased if y'all can recommend any praised/competent speaker shops in Texas or in the continental US where I can take/ship woofers to have them serviced?

    Thanks! Dan.

    Here's the video of the woofer noise (taken with my old phone so the quality is rather bad - but the noise is evident between 16-12 hertz)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AndRjsMy8eg

  2. #2
    Senior Member rdgrimes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    New Mexico, USA
    Posts
    2,172
    clicking noise between 16hz-12hz
    You're lucky you still have cones in those woofers at all. Those speakers are designed to run with a 40Hz roll-off. Forcing input below that at high levels can be deadly. Besides which all you will hear is port noise. The clicking noise is likely the VC bottoming out, or a tear in the surround or spider.

  3. #3
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146
    Sure but they are nowhere near excursion limits; I just do low level tests. Most speakers are rolled off above 20hz or so, but it doesn't mean they won't move it. It's like running your car engine at redline, no issues except over the long haul.

    Check out these yahoo's running their speakers at 1 hertz; at the high levels here, you're bound to break more than your speakers!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VK4IAAFrPo

    But I'd like to send them off for recone/resurround if anyone can please make some recommendations??

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
    Posts
    17
    Hi Danman, that could be like touching of the voice coil, or a slight voice coil tinsel lead tick, but it sounds more like the woofer spider is not glued down all the way around its edge. You should be able to find the area with the speaker out of the cabinet, and then glue it back down with a metal-adhering CA (super glue). Lay the glue under the spider then around and over the edge, like the rest of the spider edge.

    I hope this helps.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146
    I also figured it's gotta be the spider hitting against the basket, but it's really well glued around the entire perimeter from inner edge to outer edge.

    It seems odd to me that I'm able to reproduce the click by manually moving the speaker ... but that it clicks at completely randomly times ... I.E. sometimes I have to push it hard to click, other times my finger just barely makes first contact with the cone and it will click, and pretty loudly.

    I've never had a wire come off the voice coil so I'm in new territory.

    There is a tiny lead poking outside the cone (pic below), I've moved it away from all other surfaces so it doesn't appear related?? And the clicking noise is hearty enough that it sounds more like the strength of a voice coil wire. Dang. Is it off to the repair shop and which one?

    Name:  SNAG-01.jpg
Views: 467
Size:  70.2 KB

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by DanMan View Post
    I also figured it's gotta be the spider hitting against the basket, but it's really well glued around the entire perimeter from inner edge to outer edge.

    It seems odd to me that I'm able to reproduce the click by manually moving the speaker ... but that it clicks at completely randomly times ... I.E. sometimes I have to push it hard to click, other times my finger just barely makes first contact with the cone and it will click, and pretty loudly.

    I've never had a wire come off the voice coil so I'm in new territory.

    There is a tiny lead poking outside the cone (pic below), I've moved it away from all other surfaces so it doesn't appear related?? And the clicking noise is hearty enough that it sounds more like the strength of a voice coil wire. Dang. Is it off to the repair shop and which one?

    Name:  SNAG-01.jpg
Views: 467
Size:  70.2 KB
    If you put your finger on the dust cap during those frequencies, can you make it stop? If so, the vc is likely not quite centered enough and it's slapping against the pole piece and magnet. Those gaps are very tight.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146
    I wish I could stop it!

    The vc seems extremely well centered (which is why I don't work on speakers - I lack the ability to center circles)

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by DanMan View Post
    I wish I could stop it!

    The vc seems extremely well centered (which is why I don't work on speakers - I lack the ability to center circles)
    How do you know it's well centered? Have you tried gently placing your finger on the cap and pressing in an attempt to stop it? Sorry, it's just that your response leaves me guessing.

    It's possible the vc has a warp from being over driven yet still fully intact electrically. In which case re-centering it while refoaming can cure it.

  9. #9
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146
    Sorry, yes I pressed gently (while driver was playing) both directly on the center of the cone and on all sides (and even tried holding down the spider), and the clicking doesn't go away.

    I feel it's well centered because I can press medium/hard while the driver isn't playing on all sides (quadrants) of the cone and it never bottoms out nor has any vc rub in any direction.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    La Habra, California USA
    Posts
    1,551
    I would suggest reinstalling the 2214H woofers back in the cabinet and running normal music and program material through them, up to and including playing at levels that are as loud as you can stand. IF you don't get the same audible clicks or problems, leave them alone. The woofers run in a restricted and filtered frequency range based on the crossover and cabinet tuning, plus electromechanical parameters of the woofer. They are not meant to run below 20hz, and certainly not unloaded.

    Unless you continue to get clicking or other rub or voice coil noises, I'd leave them alone until they actually fail or have audible problems with music. Otherwise, send them to Upland Loudspeaker to get an evaluation and possible options for repair.
    When faced with another JBL find, Good mech986 says , JBL Fan mech986 says

  11. #11
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146
    Yep that's sound advice mech986 and thanks everyone for their input.

    The fact is, I'd have never known about it, save for the 16hz-12hz test; and I don't play any tunes in that range on this set. Plus they have a sub to back them up, so when they go loud I reroute lots of that energy to the sub.

    The surrounds have about a year to go before needing servicing so may as well get their full service life. I'll check out edgewound's shop, thanks a million!

  12. #12
    Member Radley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    54
    You can check a woofer by gently placing your fingers around the cone and gently push down and back up. If there's any rubbing then you know it's on the way out.

    I seriously doubt that anything from a computer A/D or D/A and YouTube will get anywhere near 16Hz let alone 1 Hz.

    7Hz is where earthquakes start. We were testing a large stadium loudspeaker once and fed the woofers an 8Hz tone. The engineer with me wanted to see if any of the cones were rubbing. I told him to knock it off as I looked across the street and saw the windows of a dry cleaners' were flexing in and out. It looked like Gumby dancing. By the way, the 8Hz tone was inaudible.

  13. #13
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146
    I too had serious reservations about commercial grade or even youtube playing anything outside 20hz-20khz as those are the limits we've always read about.

    But upon pondering 'why not', there are no obstacles.

    And the proof is there. The speaker moves according to the frequency shown on the youtube video. Sure the quality of the signal is degraded or denigrated but the signal is what it is.

    The 2214 held up on other youtube videos playing all the way down to 1 hertz. The speaker was moving in&out 1 time per second. That would have to be proof enough? Or is something more required?

    Your hearing is probably better than mine .... mine cut out at 13 hz. The speaker moved all the way down to once per second but I couldn't hear nor feel it.

    The 2214 is the only driver I was willing to subject to this rigorous if not insane test.

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    U.S.A.
    Posts
    307

    Stop it!

    The JBL published Dynamic Test for the 2214H is as follows:
    Sweep Frequency 20-Hz - 1200Hz @ 6 Volts

    DC Resistance is 5.1 - 6.3 for a healthy coil

    http://www.diyaudio.rs/JBL/JBL%20-%2...)%20(1988).pdf

    http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Te...L100t%20ts.pdf

    That driver wasn't meant to operate in that range your pushing it to in a box, free air not even up for consideration, period, and as for steady state? Nuts

    Why are you concerned about behavior exhibited by a driver that you are deliberately abusing? You know that what you're doing isn't doing it any favors

    I do agree it does sound like a loose glue joint but so what if it performs as designed within it's legitimate intended design parameters

    Not a good idea in my opinion, to deliberately torture transducers for what reason only God and the Man in the Moon know and one of the reasons I have some concern with those test tone discs some vendors provide with their cone repair kits, it's only asking for trouble in the wrong hands, ask me how I know

    How's the driver behave when tested within the intended design limits? If it's fine, then put it back in the box and quite looking for a problem that's not there and just something else you can worry about, that's also not there

    I promise you I could eventually get a new driver of any make fresh out of the box to exhibit weird noises and behaviors if I deliberately abused and pushed it well beyond it's design limits, without exception, never mind a 30 or 40 year old transducer and most definitely if I did so with little to no mechanical loading, like folks do with those test tone discs during a re-foam job

    Best of luck
    Joe

  15. #15
    Senior Member DanMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    austin
    Posts
    146
    My Maserati does 185,
    I lost my license now I don't drive.

    I have a limo ride in the back,
    I lock the doors in case I'm attacked.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Clicking and volume loss in an LSR 28P
    By ben_allison in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-29-2014, 02:16 PM
  2. 2235H Woofer, Flapping Noise
    By HyKlas in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-19-2014, 09:36 AM
  3. double clicking on forum 'bubble' to mark as read...
    By grumpy in forum Forum Feedback
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-11-2010, 07:46 AM
  4. Bad clicking noise at higher volumes
    By robertbartsch in forum Lansing Product General Information
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-05-2009, 09:34 AM
  5. Port Noise
    By analogman in forum Lansing Product Technical Help
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-13-2005, 11:41 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •