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Thread: JBL D-280 Questions

  1. #1
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    JBL D-280 Questions

    Hi Guys,

    I picked up a set of D-280's this weekend. They sound fantastic, but I can tell there is some corrosion on the coil or magnet pole. I can hear dust/junk on the inside. When they are powered down you can feel some of the corrosion moving between the coil and magnet. When they are powered they float like butterfly's, and work perfectly.

    I'm planning on getting a fine vacuum hose done the back side of the magnet covers, I hope this gets most of it out. I will have to cut through the screen on the inside of the magnet.

    If I am unable to get them clean by using a vacuum I may try cutting the dust caps.. but this is really going to be my last option, even after I look into paying to have them done. My other option is soaking the spider in Acetone, and carefully removing the gaskets and removing the whole cone assembly with spider and cloth surround intact. I really don't want to attempt this but it may be one of my only options...

    I would not mind trying this if I could find the proper surrounds, I have new spiders on hand so this is not an issue. My worries is with the special size 3 role black cloth surround JBL used.

    Or... I can pay to have them restored... Can anyone one recommend the best speaker repair shop in the US, outside CA is fine, I will ship if I know its worth it.. I love full range drivers, I've been collecting them since I was a teen. I have a few nice sets of JBL full range drivers, this is one that I feel is worth the effort.

    I will get better pictures tomorrow, this was taken with my cell phone after I purchased them.. They do require some basket cleaning but not a big deal. Ill have better pictures tomorrow.

    Thanks All for looking, and if anyone knows any tricks or a great repair guy, I would greatly appreciate it.

    Video of drivers in action:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOsfoTGmEgo


    Kind Regards,
    John
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    Hi again,

    I was able to get an adaptor for my shop vacuum, I just need to track down a small enough hose that will fit in the rear of the magnet. I will have to cut the dust screen in order to get as much dust out as I can. I can shake the driver and hear it moving around. I have a few options for replacing the inner dust screen. If anything I can add a new one to the exterior with some Masking tape as a temp fix until I find someone who is skilled in speaker repair with using the original parts.

    I do have a few questions.

    1. Is it possible to track down 8" black cloth surrounds with the 3 fold? If so, where can they be found? I have not found them online. Is there someone on the site who knows of any that can be found?

    2. I already have new coils ordered or "being wound" for me, for the D208's. I have a total of 4 being wound, so if needed I can use a set of the new coils on the 280's if there is any damage or if they need to be replaced.

    3. Can anyone point me in the direction of someone who has experience in this kind of detailed work? Someone who has past experience in making proper repairs without using new parts? I know I can remove the cone assembly and I can use a modern gasket to attach to the rear of the original one and keep it looking stock. In the event I do try this, I would need to install new coils, this is something I have not done when they are already mounted to the cones. Ill have to do some research on how to knock that out... I may just ask the gent who is winding my coils for me if its possible to wind coils attached to the cone.

    If anyone knows a great tech, please let me know.

    Kind Regards,
    John

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    Pictures of the magnets...
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  4. #4
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    If you are serious about wanting them repaired, PROPERLY, then quit dicking around and wasting time

    Some, if not most, of yuor original parts MAY be salvageable

    You are wasting time and possibly making things worse (see above)

    If you want them as good or better than nes then here's the fix:

    Ken Haerr (forum moniker "edgewound"):



    Upland Loudspeaker Service

    1042 N. Mountain Avenue, Suite B368
    Upland, California 91786
    909-946-5944
    1-888-990-1049

    Transducers, Selenium

  5. #5
    Senior Member 4343's Avatar
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    Cool

    ^^^^ This.

    Might try some tar remover from an auto store on that magnet.

    Sounds like there might be some sort of foam rot gunk in the gap. If you don't know how to remove the cone and spider intact, send it to Ken...
    Mike Scott in SJ, CA
    Drive 'em to the Xmax!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4343 View Post
    ^^^^ This.

    Might try some tar remover from an auto store on that magnet.

    Sounds like there might be some sort of foam rot gunk in the gap. If you don't know how to remove the cone and spider intact, send it to Ken...
    Thanks 4343 Ill be reaching out to Ken today. As for the tar, I have tried some acetone and it works well. I'm more so worried about the coils. Thank you for the post.

    Kind Regards,
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    If you are serious about wanting them repaired, PROPERLY, then quit dicking around and wasting time

    Some, if not most, of yuor original parts MAY be salvageable

    You are wasting time and possibly making things worse (see above)

    If you want them as good or better than nes then here's the fix:

    Ken Haerr (forum moniker "edgewound"):



    Upland Loudspeaker Service

    1042 N. Mountain Avenue, Suite B368
    Upland, California 91786
    909-946-5944
    1-888-990-1049

    Transducers, Selenium
    Hi Wagner,

    Thank you for the contact info. Ill be giving him a call in a few minutes.

    As for your comment about me "dicking around"... No, I'm trying to pick the minds of folks who may have done this themselves. Sorry for asking questions on a forum... Jackass.

    If you don't like the way I am posting to the thread, than no need to respond. Clearly something got you worked up enough to tell me I'm dicking around, and wasting time... What time am I wasting? Why the rush? what's with the hostility?

    Again, thank you for the contact info, I really do appreciate it. I did reach out to Kenji from Kenrick sound and they provided quotes a few weeks back. It's not a matter of wasting time, its a matter of getting all the info, so I can make the best decision.

    As for driving them and "making them worse" as you say, great thank you for your input. For your edification, I ran them on low for a good 4-5 hours. In the past few days I've owned them they have been sitting on my shelf protected. I'm not just blasting them all day, nor have they been driven since.

    Nonetheless, thank you for the contact info. Ill go call now to not waist any more time!

    Kind Regards,
    John

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wagner View Post
    If you are serious about wanting them repaired, PROPERLY, then quit dicking around and wasting time

    Some, if not most, of yuor original parts MAY be salvageable

    You are wasting time and possibly making things worse (see above)

    If you want them as good or better than nes then here's the fix:

    Ken Haerr (forum moniker "edgewound"):



    Upland Loudspeaker Service

    1042 N. Mountain Avenue, Suite B368
    Upland, California 91786
    909-946-5944
    1-888-990-1049

    Transducers, Selenium
    Hi Tom,

    Again, thank you for the contact info.

    I just got off the phone with Ken. I'm emailing him now to get the details worked out. The best option would be to soak the surround, and spider in Acetone. This would be the best way to remove the cone assembly.

    Clean the mag and pole, than reassemble....

    Sounds simple enough right?... LOL Yea, I know this is some detailed work. I've removed cones from baskets in the past, but nothing like this.

    Thank you for sharing Ken's information.

    Kind Regards,
    John

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    I said what I said because in your OP you seemed uncertain as to how you wanted to proceed, that, and the musing aloud as to whether (or if) the correct 3-roll surrounds can be "found"

    We are clearly beyond an outer compliance, "DIY" foam re-edge job by this point in the 'conversation" I would think?

    You described a pair of speakers that clearly need extensive and accurate work, along with more than a few "or maybe this or maybe that" Possibly some very specific parts that aren't of the typical "off the shelf" variety as well.

    You also inferred that you would very much like them to be in optimal operating condition; I gave you my suggestions (you need someone who knows what they are doing to assist you with this project) and shared my thoughts regarding your specific inquiry and now you call me a "jackass"; you are welcome:
    Quote Originally Posted by Jobrewer1983 View Post
    Or... I can pay to have them restored... Can anyone one recommend the best speaker repair shop in the US, outside CA is fine, I will ship if I know its worth it.. I love full range drivers, I've been collecting them since I was a teen. I have a few nice sets of JBL full range drivers, this is one that I feel is worth the effort.

    Thanks All for looking, and if anyone knows any tricks or a great repair guy, I would greatly appreciate it.

    Kind Regards,
    John
    Like I said, a whole lot of "well maybe this or maybe that"

    Add all of that up and I was given the impression that what I suggested would be the best way to go (as you seemed uncertain as to a specific plan of action); consult/hire someone who knows what they are doing

    Why experiment and risk disaster if the drivers are important to you? There is no shame is being honest and recognizing one's practical limitations and abilities

    There is also the matter of considering how much is your time worth to you? Not saying in any way you are not capable of doing the job, but can you do it in a cost effective and efficient manner?

    That was all I was attempting to convey

    Wasn't trying to be a "jackass" about anything, just giving you what I would think to be sound advice on how to best treat and preserve your nice old transducers as you seem unsure as the best way to proceed (thinking out loud). There are times when subcontracting SOME jobs to people that do it for a living is the best option, that approach, addressing all variables and potential for "things going badly" are concerned (especially having a line on the correct parts needed)

    I like to to do as much of my own work as I possibly can, and do for the most part, but I also know what I don't know (or don't have ready/reliable access to what I need to effect a repair) thus when it's wise to defer to a professional at the trade

    No need to be so thin skinned about objective advice; I was only working with the the hypothetical/thinking out loud that YOU provided

    Good luck,
    Thomas

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    Thanks Tom,

    ďI said what I said because in your OP you seemed uncertain as to how you wanted to proceed, that, and the musing aloud as to whether (or if) the correct 3-roll surrounds can be "found

    You are absolutely correct, I was uncertain. Hence why I started the thread. By reading your post, the reader would/could assume that you were annoyed at the thread.

    It may have been worded badly, that was due to typing it up on my cell phone, and in a rush. My questions were still valid ones.

    You are also correct, ďa whole lot of "well maybe this or maybe thatThatís because there are many different options.

    Agreed, I do a lot myself as well, so I understandÖ (Below)

    I like to do as much of my own work as I possibly can, and do for the most part, but I also know what I don't know (or don't have ready/reliable access to what I need to effect a repair) thus when it's wise to defer to a professional at the trade

    I do a lot of audio gear restoration, recapping of amps, and old receivers, PCB work mostly. Iíve knocked out a few units for friends, and a few for personal use. Im a stickler for detail, I have a few builds up on AK. I feel that I can do this myself, but I donít want to risk it. Iíll be using Ken. We talked for a good 30minuts while I was at work yesterday. He explained his process and he was kind enough to give me some tips as well. Great guy! Itís always nice to talk audio with folks who know the gear, and have a passion for it.

    Lastly: ďNo need to be so thin skinned about objective advice; I was only working with the hypothetical/thinking out loud that YOU providedĒ

    I donít think im being thin skinned by calling you a jackass after giving me needed information. More so being hardheaded, or being a jackass in returnÖ I was cracking up when I read your post. I understand as well, Iíve read peopleís posts and have had some crazy thoughts myselfÖ Itís understandable.

    My point: you did not like how I worded my post, something caused you to think I was ďDicking AroundĒ. I was not, I was trying to gather information. So for you to imply I was just screwing around, is completely wrong. Nothing more, nothing less.

    Either way, I did reach out to Ken, and you are right, he knows his stuff. Iíll be out of the state for a few weeks on vacation, and will be sending him the drives on the 9th when I get back. Im not sure if he will post any pictures of the build, but Iíll ask him. If he provides me with any, Iíll be sure to post them to the thread.

    Also in contact with a cabinet builder. I need to figure out what size I can get away with, I know the 280ís only need 1Cf to run. What I donít know is if I should run this set with some 2402s and the LX4-2 crossovers. Similar to the Bel Aire set up, or if I want to run them as single full range drivers. I have all the drivers and hardware just need to figure out how I want to do this.. any thoughts or advice?

    I really appreciate the info Tom, I'm super excited to work with Ken on the project. Thank you.

    Kind Regards,
    John

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    Thanks for the explanations, but hardly needed or expected
    What I meant by "dicking around" (it wasn't an accusation, rather an observation) is making things more complicated than they need to be by over analysis/over thinking/ and at time, over confidence as I am pretty "handy" (and the resulting paralysis/procrastination), example :"well on the one hand, but then again, on the other.....................etc etc etc" sort of thing

    And generally speaking (for me anyway) by the time I "dick around" contemplating all of the "options" (and sometimes my navel) it would have been to my benefit to have just gone with the obvious and pulled the trigger. Costs is one of my greatest stumbling blocks wish projects like these (I can't see the forest for the trees, plus I worked for years were I learned and had an extensive knowledge of what things actually cost, "inside") And as I mentioned, I have a tendency to resist subcontracting work that I am always convinced I can do myself (but not always taking into full account all the associated costs like sourcing and buying materials, time for preparation in a DIY setting and proper tools I may not have readily at hand)

    The unseen costs as it were

    I do it myself ("dicking around"), all the time, and usually wind up where I started, with the simplest, least convoluted option after wasting hours or even days angsting over something which in the final analysis was really quite simple (the answer was clear but I just couldn't "see" it due to all of the "what ifs" and options (and other distractions/considerations mentioned above)

    Thank you for being so understanding and for the chat

    Good luck with your drivers; please show them after they're done and report on the what I'm sure will be exceptional results

    Kind regards,
    Thomas

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    Senior Member Ian Mackenzie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jobrewer1983 View Post
    Hi Tom,

    Again, thank you for the contact info.

    I just got off the phone with Ken. I'm emailing him now to get the details worked out. The best option would be to soak the surround, and spider in Acetone. This would be the best way to remove the cone assembly.

    Clean the mag and pole, than reassemble....

    Sounds simple enough right?... LOL Yea, I know this is some detailed work. I've removed cones from baskets in the past, but nothing like this.

    Thank you for sharing Ken's information.

    Kind Regards,
    John
    Hi John,

    I just saw your thread and this sort of thing happens to the best of us.

    On the surface the problem is obvious and l would have done the same as you posted.

    But not all the internal driver issues are the same as you point out so posting as you did provided context so we or any normal person could understand what was going on.

    I have met Ken in Socal a few years back and he is very generous with his expertise and a very nice guy.

    Please post a pic of the repaired system when you are ready.

    Ian

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    Update

    Hi All,

    Iíve been a little busy with work/life to get on the site and provide an update.

    I got some great advice from Gene at Sertech, a few weeks back, and decided to knock them out myself. Iíve been playing with audio gear for a while as I'm sure a lot of you have. I enjoy recapping an amp every now and then, but never attempted re-using a cone for a driver. I was worried the coil would be super fridge, not what I expected at all.

    The fact that I was told to stop ďdicking aroundĒ kinda made me want to do it myself.

    On to the update:

    I was able to remove the cone assembly without any damage to the cone or coil. It looks like the original dust filter got sucked in to the gap causing some rubbing. Iíll install a new filter while I have it all open.

    I was actually able find the correct surrounds. The cone on the D-280ís are 6Ē cones with a 3 roll cloth surround. Found that Simply Speakers has one general cloth surround for a 6Ē cone with an 7 3/4Ē outer diameter. Fits the cone like a glove. The surround is pretty good quality, I set it over the original and itís an exact fit.

    http://www.simplyspeakers.com/speake...it-clsk-8.html

    As for the spider, that was an easy find. Parts express sent me 4 with a previous order. I was planning on using the original dust caps, and just cutting them 98% off the coil than regluing them down, but I have some new caps, and they just look cleaner. Iíll be shimming the coil, and installing the new caps.

    I need to clean the gap on the magnets, but have yet to do so. I will be taking them this weekend to blow them out with an air compressor. After that Iíll try the masking tape process.

    Glue spider, shim coil, Solder in connection points, glue the surround, let dry, remove shims, and finish up with new caps, and re-install the gaskets. I did dry fit it all and its smooth as glass. Coils are a little scratched but not bad at all, reading 6 ohms on one and 6.2 on the other.

    Iíll be providing pictures, and a video once done. Hope to be done by next week.

    Kind Regards,
    John
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