What kind of amps and cables do you use?

[Ducatista47]

Ducatista - have you compared any of those wires/cables with the Audio DiffMaker yet?

No, I have not used it yet. I don't have a recording soundcard or anything like it. I posted the AudioDiff Maker thread a few days after discovering the software's existence on Audioholics in the hope it would be of interest here, and maybe merit some discussion and deeper thinking. I think I guessed correctly. Noticing the Harman How To Listen Software was listed, I figured the list might be useful and checked it out. https://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/best-free-audio-software

What do you mean by the descriptive "ignition"?

As in "secondary" or other?

Eighteen gauge stranded, sold at Menard's at one time in red or black insulation for automotive ignitions. I use it with my 101dB Hammer Dynamics Super 12s.

[Wagner]

Eighteen gauge stranded, sold at Menard's at one time in red or black insulation for automotive ignitions. I use it with my 101dB Hammer Dynamics Super 12s.

Primary or secondary ignition?
Can you photograph?
Thank you,
Thomas

[grumpy]

Are you asking if he's using spark plug wires?

1) no.

2) just no.

3) you'd need two, and they'd have to be racing ... ah, just no.

[Wagner]

Are you asking if he's using spark plug wires?

1) no.

2) just no.

3) you'd need two, and they'd have to be racing ... ah, just no.

Secondary ignition wire was, and still is sold by the spool
It's all I would use back in "the day" when custom fit sets more often than not sucked and were ridiculously over priced (and what that funny thing you always wondered about is for on the end of your stripper/crimping pliers)

Regardless, there is such a thing as solid core (metal) secondary wire but it's rare nowadays and hard to find, ergo the way I asked the question. I'd like to have some if it is in fact available (affordably, as in CHEAP and in bulk)

I went to the website for that chain, forget about it..................and he said it was a while ago, so.............

There is no special wire for automotive ignitions' primary except for resister wire used by GM and a few others and I know that's not being sold at any home builder's supply store, otherwise it's just a flexible stranded lower voltage rating (lower than tube amps or home appliances @600V) wire for auomotive use (nowadays there are some fire regs/requirements but that's about it) nothing that toaster oven hookup wire would not meet or exceed

That's why I am so interested and pressing for the clarification/photo/details-his specific reference to automotive ignition use

Being there is no such thing as wire made specifically for automotive ignition system's PRIMARY except what I mentioned above, although I have seen some the Auto Zone type junk parts houses that do sell short lengths in blister boxes (best name I can up with for the pre-packaging) that does say stupid meaningless shit on it like "for auto ignition" but then the OP wouldn't have been buying THAT sort of thing at a building supply store................

.................I'd like to know what he's talking about

[grumpy]

Used to be performance/hot rod shops carried bulk non-RF suppression plug wire in various diameters.
might try summit racing or the like.

Re what wire was actually used, there's conductor material, plated or not, ga., #strands, insulation material and thickness. I'm assuming single conductor "geometry". Those things might help nail down what was meant.

[300_Summit]

What is this filter? I've never heard of it.


Widget

It's an inline high pass filter. You place it on the input of your amplifier. I actually was just reading up on these yesterday. I'm going to get a pair myself and try them on my L-300s. I'm going to try a 50hz high pass. I have a subwoofer, so I really don't want my 300s going much below 50hz. This is the one I'm going to get from parts express:

Harrison Labs FMOD Inline Crossover Pair 50 Hz High Pass RCA

Product Details


Harrison Labs FMOD Inline Crossover Pair 50 Hz High Pass RCA
What is an FMOD™? The FMOD™ is an active crossover simulator. It is better than a much more expensive electronic crossover that requires power to operate. FMODs™ are packaged in pairs and can be combined with other FMODs™ to obtain bandpass ranges or with other types of crossovers to change the slope and crossover frequency point. FMODs™ feature a 12 dB per octave crossover slope and are compatible with all RCA type input amps...simply place the FMOD™ in-line with the patch cable running between the source (head unit) and the amplifier. 24kt gold over brass construction, 10 volts maximum RMS input. One-year manfacturer warranty. Made in the U.S.A.

[Ducatista47]

Primary or secondary ignition?
Can you photograph?
Thank you,
Thomas

Of course I remembered wrong. Primary Wire from GB. 16 Gauge. 600V 105 degree C. Tin plated stranded copper.

[Wagner]

Of course I remembered wrong. Primary Wire from GB. 16 Gauge. 600V 105 degree C. Tin plated stranded copper.

I supected that's what it was
Thank you for the clarification
Thomas

[Ducatista47]

I supected that's what it was
Thank you for the clarification
Thomas

You're welcome for the clarification and of course my terrible memory, which is why it was necessary, comes at no additional charge.

It is very flexible and I highly recommend it if 16 AWG is OK. Easy to use and inexpensive. Red & black spools make for goof proof use.

[Mr. Widget]

It's an inline high pass filter. You place it on the input of your amplifier.

Of course, a line level passive filter. A buddy used to passively biamp using home made versions.

Thanks,

Widget

[Mr. Widget]

Red & black spools make for goof proof use.

You've obviously never seen me work... nothing is goof proof.


Widget

[Wagner]

You're welcome for the clarification and of course my terrible memory, which is why it was necessary, comes at no additional charge.

It is very flexible and I highly recommend it if 16 AWG is OK. Easy to use and inexpensive. Red & black spools make for goof proof use.

You using this for internal wiring or what exactly?

Can't get it anymore, but Radio Shack used to carry spools of black and white (small) solid core hook-up wire (300V) that I used on a lot of internal vintage wire replacements (that had become corroded) Catalog # 278-1217 18AWG 60FT rolls for about $5 bucks

Went from "Made in the U.S.A." to china, and now, NLA. Wish I had stocked up on the stuff

Made it into twisted pairs for internal cabinet wiring and even a couple of sets of (experimental) speaker cables, high quality, "sounded" as good as any of the other wire I have tried (the speaker cables maybe "better" but I couldn't prove it) Works well for homemade FM antennas as well (quick and dirty modified cubical quads being one)

If you see any on a shelf, grab it, but obviously has the draw backs of solid core when used for long runs

[Ducatista47]

You using this for internal wiring or what exactly?

No, this is my speaker wire for a system. I used to use 18 gauge magnet wire but I thought I would try something a little heavier. The needed current for these speakers is small, but since the First Watt F1J current source amp can send more power than the small tube amps the speaker designer had in mind for it... A just in case scenario. The 10 gauge on my 4345s is overkill but no harm done there either. As I said elsewhere I have probably spent too much on amplification, but this stuff does have faultless sound. Some day I might throw a cheap 25 watt class D in there and there may not be a difference, who knows.

I have long bucked the trend here and the ancient low power warning JBL paper. I don't play my speakers as loudly as some, and they are so efficient I don't need big watts. In the 98-101 dB category big power only adds inches, and I am content in my manhood without doing that. Come'on, two watts through these and I need earplugs. Keep the Crowns, glad they like them. Bottom line, 16 AWG is welcome here.

I still think double insulated magnet wire is a first class choice for internal speaker connections, if I ever go there. Compact, stiff and indestructible. Then again that stranded machine tool THHN I found will fill the bill too.

[Wagner]

No, this is my speaker wire for a system. I used to use 18 gauge magnet wire but I thought I would try something a little heavier. The needed current for these speakers is small, but since the First Watt F1J current source amp can send more power than the small tube amps the speaker designer had in mind for it... A just in case scenario. The 10 gauge on my 4345s is overkill but no harm done there either. As I said elsewhere I have probably spent too much on amplification, but this stuff does have faultless sound. Some day I might throw a cheap 25 watt class D in there and there may not be a difference, who knows.

I have long bucked the trend here and the ancient low power warning JBL paper. I don't play my speakers as loudly as some, and they are so efficient I don't need big watts. In the 98-101 dB category big power only adds inches, and I am content in my manhood without doing that. Come'on, two watts through these and I need earplugs. Keep the Crowns, glad they like them. Bottom line, 16 AWG is welcome here.

I still think double insulated magnet wire is a first class choice for internal speaker connections, if I ever go there. Compact, stiff and indestructible. Then again that stranded machine tool THHN I found will fill the bill too.

Well, if you're fine with using that 16 AWG for speaker wire then you should definitely try the Radio Shack solid core made up into TPs, you may just enjoy the results

I just did a cursory search and it appears there is still some floating around out there on ePay and the like and for less money than I paid for it new, which was already next to nothing

[Ducatista47]

You've obviously never seen me work... nothing is goof proof.


Widget

It's house wiring that makes me think too much. White insulated with black sharpie ends crammed into the junction boxes with every other color there is. I have to run some 220V here so I can't use the red wire for that.