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Thread: 044-1 wire repair?

  1. #1
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    044-1 wire repair?

    The sound from a 044-1 tweeter in my L250 comes and goes. Apparently, the coil wire is broken just at the where it was soldered onto the rivet (which on the other side is the male prong the takes the female connector from the crossover). I moved the wire to make better contact with the rivet and sound returns. Does anyone have any advice on how to repair this? Can I just resolder it with a micro soldering iron? Anything I need to be careful about? All help deeply appreciated!
    chris

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    Quote Originally Posted by Minatogawaman View Post
    The sound from a 044-1 tweeter in my L250 comes and goes. Apparently, the coil wire is broken just at the where it was soldered onto the rivet (which on the other side is the male prong the takes the female connector from the crossover). I moved the wire to make better contact with the rivet and sound returns. Does anyone have any advice on how to repair this? Can I just resolder it with a micro soldering iron? Anything I need to be careful about? All help deeply appreciated!
    chris
    Yes, broken voice coil wire can be re-soldered
    Be in the mood to fool with it
    Make certain you can see what you need to see
    Use flux and a good tip
    Do your prep and clamp the little wire in place with a clothes pin or heat sink so you don't get any movement or a cold joint when it's time to strike the iron
    Be happy it's broken where it is and not where it enters the coil around the former!

    Good luck

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    Thanks, Wagner!


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    Do your prep
    indeed. Make sure the wire end is clean. If you need to come back a bit further (shortening the wire) for whatever reason, you may have to scrape or chemically strip some enamel to get access to the copper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpy View Post
    indeed. Make sure the wire end is clean. If you need to come back a bit further (shortening the wire) for whatever reason, you may have to scrape or chemically strip some enamel to get access to the copper.
    Definitely, as well as the contact spot for the joint

    Be sure to use a good eutectic blend like 63/37

    Do not use 60/40 for work like this unless you are very skilled and know your iron very well (I don't see any good reason to use 60/40 for anything really, but that's just me)

    I wasn't going to get into soldering techniques at large, (so disregard all of this if you already know how), but for this job you also want to tin the lug or rivet very well and use a fairly large chisel tip with a hot setting on your iron if it's adjustable (hotter than you would use for example on PC board work) If your iron is not adjustable just make sure it is thoroughly warmed up when you make the joint (not immediately after a wet sponge wipe)

    You want it hot enough to hit it one time for about a second and be done with it (again, bear with me, don't know what your soldering skills are or aren't) You do not want to have to cook things and run the risk of ruining the little insulator if equipped or the deforming the backing plate

    Establish a good gravity/clamp contact between the wire and the lug and apply the heat TO THE LUG OR THE RIVET, CLOSE to the wire BUT NOT DIRECTLY ON IT

    Thomas

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    Many Thanks

    Great advice...thanks so much. Next weekend I will tackle it after gathering the materials and carefully reviewing your kind advice. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Minatogawaman View Post
    Great advice...thanks so much. Next weekend I will tackle it after gathering the materials and carefully reviewing your kind advice. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
    Well, how'd it go?

    Success?

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