i will check
from schematics all polarity are reversed, but not for 2441 where minus is minus and plus is plus (dual 12db filtering gives 0 phase rotation)
for woofers, even if Active, should be like you said due to the reverse polarity on the UREI 5235 right?
good. i'll check phase before mounting the driver in box.
The 2441 is also reversed.
On your passive crossover inside the speaker. The red (output) of your crossover goes to the black of the driver and the black goes to the red. This for all the drivers.
The 2235's are in parallel to give you a 4 Ohms... Or less with JBL's. The all highs should give you about 6.5 Ohms.
The 5235 has nothing to do with the polarity of the drivers, speaker.
You will connect your amp to the speaker as a regular speaker. Red to red...
When everything will be done and connected. Check the phase with a phase checker. That could be usefull...
I know, it could be confusing sometime.
C
Just checked schematics, right all reversed.
also woofer? mean, ok they are in parallel, but i will also use the negative as a positive? (as i know JBL winding is reversed itself...?)
Thanks
Also Cork gasket is missing, do I need Cork or Neoprene is just fine?
No no don't worry none are missing. i installed it later.
I would do with cork. I bought a sheet of 2x4 at a craft store that we have here and cut each of them.
you have some on ebay but it's expensive and I don't see the point to spend that much money.
A sheet is about $20 for all and more.
here a simulation between 2 2226h and 2 2235h, first tuned to 36hz second tuned to 28hz.
Ofcourse no discussion on the fact that 2235 have a lower and more flat response, for a studio monitor should be the best solution.
in the meantime i will get some 2235h, i try also 2226h, they should have much more efficiency and a better transient Impact/response, but not so deep bass.
Challenger is asking and I'm doing ahahah, Just kidding.
AWG 13, all around
I had some issue with One box... unfortunately the drilling for 2311 was not so precise, and fit a 1/4-20 screw was not easy, i would have to open the hole up to 9mm
so i decided to use a gasket, M5 brass screw and Self blocking nut+washer inside the box, the fitting looks nice, it takes just 15min more to dismount the driver, and i hope he will stay in place for long time.
bigger wire are also for the driver (not pictured)
here you can see my driver support copy-paste from the other 4355 thread.
I had one 2311 not so clean, and a nice H93, so decided to paint fully in black to match front panel.
maybe a bit to fashion, but front finish will be Gold/Black, elegant.... I've in my planning to substitute also tweeter screw
Hello Luca!
You could'nt find the right screws and the gaskets for the 2311 and 2405?
I'm sure a good hardware store would have it!
Let me know! I could help you!
I painted my 2405 screws and had helen screws for the 2311's.
Anyway! You are getting closer!!
Good for you!
Cheers!
C
HI,
unfortunately it's not so easy to find them here in my city and i can see many on e-bay but with some expensive delivery cost (25-26 USD just for shipping...)
i will try another shop here, because i would like to use Flat head 8/32 philips slot for the tweeter and re-try 1/4-20 later on for the driver...
Gasket no problem, real problem here is the UNC/UNF screw variants, here we have Metric unit.
if you have a set 8+8 screw as spare....contact me!
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)