Making progress.

[bldozier]

O good tip I was thinking of something from the local ace,
I will definitely look into it. Was not sure with the water tip but again a complete novice.
Thanks for taking your time to educate me.
I have cut the baffle its short so I need to attach a piece to bring it to 37" tall.
Iam thinking of using a 2nd sheet of bb for thr rears.

A integral part of my system also arrived today just ow matter of fact. My sansui au7500.
What a beast 2nd to last piece looking for a crown eq 2 to finish it. Maybe a d23 and bluetooth receiver, down the line.

[grumpy]

I believe what Berga is referring to would be likely available at Ace Hardware (or elsewhere in the US) as Gorilla Glue.

[berga12]

I believe what Berga is referring to would be likely available at Ace Hardware (or elsewhere in the US) as Gorilla Glue.

maybe

"polyurethane wood glue"

below the product I experienced many times in Speaker box building since I was 16.
Of course any other good quality wooden glue it's fine, but the Polyurethane one Expand and fill the existing gap, like I can see in the box picture.

I used Wuerth product code: Cod. art.: 0892100170
https://eshop.wuerth.it/PUR-glue-pol...erm=0892100170

Contents	0.01 ml
Container	PET bottle
Chemical basis	Polyurethane
Density	1.45 g/cm³
Colour	Brown
Min. proportion of solids	95 %
Min. film forming temperature	10 °C
Viscosity	5000 mPas
Min./max. wood moisture	0-12 %
Conditions for open time	at 20°C and 65% humidity
Min. pressing pressure	0.01 bar
Min./max. temperature resistance of the hardened material	-30 bis 100 °C
Min./max. processing temperature	5 bis 40 °C
Max. application quantity in surface bonding	200 g/m²
Shelf life from production	12 Month

[bldozier]

P9Im starting the seconf 4315a I have the sides cut, on is shorter then the other from a miscalculation, so I will need to graft a mdf piece to bring it to specification.
Now I have a system down its going much smoother.

These a a top/botto with the 3/8 dado cut im going in 1/4 " deep. I find my system now to mark my width 20 3/8 1/8" waist on either side, 20 1/8 finished. Mark 3/8 from the 20 1/8 draw my edge line. Mark another 3/8 for my dado cut total is 3/4 (3/8+3/8) I start the cut with my backsaw, to have a guide for the 45, although the fence is sufficient, my mdf desperately needs to be edge planed, this can be done before hand to allow a smooth surface for the plane to run on. I had a hill on one end of the mdf which bent out a 1/4, once it was removed smoth sailing for the fenced 45. Then I removed the fence and continued to mill the piece. I hace a 1/4 depth gauge to check my work.
Attachment 70880

[Wagner]

"Gorilla Glue" the type which expands is worthless for filling gaps from a strength standpoint, wood putty will work just as well and won't leave all the 'foam" bubbles behind I know this from experience

It adds NO strength to the joint above or beyond what it offers in a no gap joint

It is also ridiculously overpriced for the mediocre product that it is

There are several excellent glue strength/comparison test videos on-line which demonstrate this objectively with actual lab tests, just google it

The only luck I have had with it personally was using it as a reinforcing/filler agent for deep screw holes (long ones) in a 100 year old Oak chair I had a hell of a time repairing. It wasn't the glue's adhesive strength that solved my problem, rather the wedge it formed (think loose chair legs, that wasn't my exact issue but similar) On that repair squeeze out and mess weren't a concern, I just needed to fill gaps in a hole around a screw: filled the hole with Gorilla Glue and then sunk the screw

It also expands while curing which can cause splits and joint deformities

I'd still stick with Titebond or even the new formula from Elmer's "Carpenter's Wood Glue Max", the on-line reviews are mixed but I took those with a grain of salt and tried it, it is an excellent product. It also contains real wood fibers so it fills small voids well, will readily take paint or stain and really is sandable (they all claim to be, but unless paper clog is your idea of fun not so much)

From the photos it appears that the joinery you have going is not that bad (in fact it look just fine) and should provide enough surface contact to result in a strong joint. The joints will swell as well with a heavy bead so I think you'll be just fine. I'd coat both pieces

It is also much easier to clean up wood glue squeeze out with a damp rag followed by a scrapper after set up than it is to clean up the mess that Gorilla glue promises (and I promise you it is the shits as for making a mess with any sort of bead)

Traditional carpenter's glue and maybe a few strategically placed glue blocks set with screws, and or your cabinet bracing if you're using any and I think you will be fine

Avoid polyurethane glues, aliphatic resin/PVA glues specifically formulated for wood are still the best all around choice despite what the marketing says

As for filling joints with gaps and making things any stronger? Gorilla glue REALLY sucks

[berga12]

Thanks Wagner for your experience, this is really helpful also for me.

"Gorilla" glue is the only one I had in mind, but good to know much more valid alternatives!

[bldozier]

Titebond II or III,

I had a dado blow out on me fitting the tops and bottoms. They just need to be glued backup. Im feeling working with bb would stop that. Mdf edges when cut close will blow out if pressure is applied to them as mine have with the dado.


The second cab sides had a few imperfections I needed to section out a bad spot the swerved when cut to12". Its just a rough spot so I cut a 1/4 section I will remove the bad section and glue that in. The second problem is the side piece was 1 1/2 insches short. So I've spent time cutting and sanding a piece to join it. Whenever I sand the side piece its always bowed to one side so just taking my time, to get it flat. My saw needs to be sharpend I may not try and cut the second bb piece untill then. As the first was failry taxing.


I have received the koa wood from Hawaii to make bowties from for my live edge corner desk. Cool guy sent my four pieces when I only bought one. I was looking at purple heart, but this will work fine.

[bldozier]

The second cabinet fell toghter much eaiser then the first. The mdf was high and low some extra care had to be taken with the rear panel, for some reason it was 1/2 to wide when I went to fit it. Idk, but the three panes slid into place as intended much easier the the first. With minimal to no gap. I saved some mdf shavings incase I need to level the first cabinet before glueing up, and wood the sealing.




I havent cut the baffle yet, I will in a few.

[badman]

"Gorilla Glue" the type which expands is worthless for filling gaps from a strength standpoint, wood putty will work just as well and won't leave all the 'foam" bubbles behind I know this from experience

It adds NO strength to the joint above or beyond what it offers in a no gap joint

It is also ridiculously overpriced for the mediocre product that it is

There are several excellent glue strength/comparison test videos on-line which demonstrate this objectively with actual lab tests, just google it

The only luck I have had with it personally was using it as a reinforcing/filler agent for deep screw holes (long ones) in a 100 year old Oak chair I had a hell of a time repairing. It wasn't the glue's adhesive strength that solved my problem, rather the wedge it formed (think loose chair legs, that wasn't my exact issue but similar) On that repair squeeze out and mess weren't a concern, I just needed to fill gaps in a hole around a screw: filled the hole with Gorilla Glue and then sunk the screw

It also expands while curing which can cause splits and joint deformities

I'd still stick with Titebond or even the new formula from Elmer's "Carpenter's Wood Glue Max", the on-line reviews are mixed but I took those with a grain of salt and tried it, it is an excellent product. It also contains real wood fibers so it fills small voids well, will readily take paint or stain and really is sandable (they all claim to be, but unless paper clog is your idea of fun not so much)

From the photos it appears that the joinery you have going is not that bad (in fact it look just fine) and should provide enough surface contact to result in a strong joint. The joints will swell as well with a heavy bead so I think you'll be just fine. I'd coat both pieces

It is also much easier to clean up wood glue squeeze out with a damp rag followed by a scrapper after set up than it is to clean up the mess that Gorilla glue promises (and I promise you it is the shits as for making a mess with any sort of bead)

Traditional carpenter's glue and maybe a few strategically placed glue blocks set with screws, and or your cabinet bracing if you're using any and I think you will be fine

Avoid polyurethane glues, aliphatic resin/PVA glues specifically formulated for wood are still the best all around choice despite what the marketing says

As for filling joints with gaps and making things any stronger? Gorilla glue REALLY sucks

Really nice summary of why "wood glue" is the best glue for wood I agree with everything you said except the Elmer's- I haven't tried it! I'll give it a shot when my current gallon of titebond 2 runs out. Water solubility is also really handy with these glues- there are many times I find a diluted coating of woodglue to be a perfect solution for things. I use flakeboard/OSB for shelves in my garage storage. Coating it with slightly thinned woodglue makes it nice, sturdy, moisture resistant. Most inexpensive engineered wood products use far too little resin, you can often make up for it (at least somewhat) with liberal use of PVA.

[boputnam]

...the advantage, beside the fact that became strong like Iron, is that It expand with humidity/moisture, so you can spry a bit of water on the gluing place before applying, then glue together.

And, if pipe woodclamps aren't available, you might consider some rope clamps (or even ratchet straps) which encompass the entire wood frame, holding it tight while drying. Tight is good - it builds integrity into the frame and also helps ensure airtight bonds...

[bldozier]

Thanks bo. I was interested in using ratcheting straps along with tight bond glue. This is how iam going to do the final joinery.

Its been a while since ive posted, I had really missed on cutting the hole for the le14 the hole was first to small after I recut it it wasn't usable so I have to buy a second piece of baltic. Using the coping saw to cut the baltic was not working I used my key hole saw, as a last resort which to hours. I was given a jig saw after imcut the baffel so I will be using it to tje 4315s. I am trying to print templates as guides this time around. Finding a suitable program has proven difficult, asided from contacting graphics shopts for cut outs at the cost of $50.00 for 8 cut outs.

I have located and have given a down payment for the 3114s. Super excited about this, now I need the 2405a pair and the le8t to 2108 conversions. I have the le8ts and le10s for the magnet swap. The 3114s are recaps with original caps include.
Brian.

[bldozier]

Soooo, so sorry, the dely was so long. Here the 3114b networks are. Im excited to be resuming this project. Thanks all who stuck by.
I thought the backplates were 1/8 but they are 1/4" shows you how much I know.
Brb in a few.

[JeffW]

Good to see you sticking to it, take however long you need - we'll be here!

[1audiohack]

Good to see you sticking to it, take however long you need - we'll be here!

Ditto!

Barry.

[mech986]

Boy, those shipping boxes were overstuffed. Did that cause the chipped back panel?