Making progress.

[bldozier]

Comming along with my project.
However my le14 surrounds were severly damaged in shipping
They are lansaloy, an irreplaceable, far as I know. Kinda bummed however I may have had to re surround
The le14s incidentally regardless,
The project is 4315a, using
2405
Le5-2 until I find 2105a
Le8t/le10/2018 cones
Le14a

Here is some of the damage, how simple is the removal of lansaloy, I have red threads I may way to use it if I can find some on this project. Any use an exacto to separate it from the cone as described in the re surround sticky...

[bldozier]

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...light=Lansaloy

I was offered a partial refund, all is not lost.

[BMWCCA]

Seriously, you would have wanted to re-surround them, anyway. Get the proper foam surrounds from Rick Cobb and this is one JBL application where you want to glue the new surrounds to the front. It will cover most of the damage from removing the Lansaloy and will be just what the factory would have done under their warranty or repair service.

Any refund you get should cover most of your repair, if not your time!

Good luck.

[Wagner]

However my le14 surrounds were severly damaged in shipping
They are lansaloy, an irreplaceable, far as I know. Kinda bummed however I may have had to re surround

No need to be bummed, the surrounds you show in your photos are NO GOOD to begin with and are not serviceable in any way
They need to be/should be replaced whether they became cracked in shipping or not

The brake fluid "fix" is bull shit in every regard (if that's what you were contemplating or using as a basis for your shipping complaint); if a driver is going to be relegated as a collectible or "shelf queen" them why put that shit anywhere near a cone? On the other hand, if you plan to actually use any of these drivers still in possession of those surrounds, in any sort of meaningful way (operating anywhere close to spec), then the Lansalloy needs to be replaced. You are intending to use these drivers, at least that is what you state.

JBL eventually considered it a defect

[Wagner]

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...light=Lansaloy

I was offered a partial refund, all is not lost.

That's one hell of a "good" seller
Consider yourself very fortunate...............
.............and also consider doing the right thing and NOT accepting his offer

Thomas

[Wagner]

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...light=Lansaloy

I was offered a partial refund, all is not lost.

Don't know why you posted this old thread link here?

BUT, the answer to the question just posed in your PM is right there

Photos not required:
NO SHARP TOOLS ON CONE - SLICE THE INTACT LANSALLOY CONCENTRICALLY USING A FRESH RAZOR BLADE OR RAZOR KNIFE
Adequately ventilated work area
Turntable (lazy Susan is not required but makes for a better time of things)
Cotton swabs
MEK
Patience

That's all it takes to get it off the cone

Thomas

[bldozier]

Thanks thomas, they ebay offered a full reimbursement for the cost of the sale, an I keep the driver, as a consolation. I refused an after msg the seller we were in agreement on a partial for this amount.

Since the item was damaged in SHIPPING. my liability in the matter is moot, if the seller used the free $200.00 insurance from his choice of shipping this woulda coved my end and the seller since I paid under $100.00 for the le14. Shipped.

Im now way stating it would have been used in its original condition as what thomas an other people have stated on lansing, reconditioned vintage willlay close if not better then og.

I will use the mek or 3m solvent remover as stated in the threads or leave this article to, a refoamer,

Thanks all for the kind words.
Brian

[bldozier]

So, I was frantically searching for a 2105/le5-2 enclose for this 4315 project, the tube online are almost all 4"od a few
Rare 4" id tubes are around. I called a place yazoomills, which have a capability to custom mill cardboard tobes in id/od an wall thickness. The specified 4.5/4.18 od id combination was just over $150.00 for a 12" cardboard tube. YIKES. I was last night wondering where the tube was going to come from. And saw a l100t that used I think the fiberglass enclosure for the le5. I had did a deal a ways back for the 4" cardboard port from it, and the buyer gave me the le5 enclosures as well. I dug the the out and for sure they all fit. The cardboard is 4" id exactly, for those whom prefer to use it over other sources. I have the 2 3/4 id / 2 7/8 port in cardboard I bought specifically for this project already.

[JeffW]

I'm not 100% sure about PVC pipe, but 4" steel pipe is 4.5" OD, and standard wall thickness is .237". That ends up at 4.026" ID. If PVC has the same wall thickness, that'd be close and cheap. I doubt there is much of a sonic difference between cardboard and PVC in this application.

[bldozier]

Found aluminum as well but I did not want to use that, thanks for your recommendation Jeff

[bldozier]

Its works nice, just not enough control without clamping, I will try and think of an alternative to cutting a rebate, w/o having to go buy a expensive tool. The stanley 45 again is nice to use and works as intended.

[bldozier]

Works nicer then before, the stanley 45 requires some skill to use with enough control to plane the dado on the mdf, im only going in 1/4 so I wanted to give this another chance, I moved the fence to the right side, and this provided more then enough control ( im right handed working on my carpet ) I then removed the fence, and finished my 101 woodshop.

[bldozier]

Top & bottoms are cut and fitted one side, I was a bit adventures with the plane an will need some wood filler to be flush, they are not perfect but will be square and producing sweet sound.
Thanks saeman for the great write ups.
Hope to be finished cutting by the weekend.

These will be black on black or studio gray & black, I dont feel comfortable veenering them maybe after glue up I will change my mind, time will tell.

[bldozier]

So, iam cutting the rebates by hand, I dont have power tools. The first one was a complete disasters. It was long and wayward. It frustrated me. I decided I need clamps, and found a deal on ebay for four f clamps. Cutting my fustrations a bit.
The edges also a not very true, and to progress with the sides I need true edges front to back not top to bottom.
The clamps allowed me the use of the straightest edge I had to sand the other sides. I feel much happier about the project now an iam thinking about veneer.

Just clamping my level to my board as a fence as removing material little by little this has another 1/8 to have my rebate in there.





Its level. It needs fine tuning, and the baffel dado obviously, iam a happy camper.
The second will be crisper, hopefully less sanding.

[berga12]

Suggestion...

As you are not machining, but hand milling/sanding, for final assembly insthead of using Vinilic wooden glue, you can think to use the "poliuretanic" Wood glue of brand "Wuerth"(the famous one...U with 2 dot on top), maybe other brand are existing...

the advantage, beside the fact that became strong like Iron, is that It expand with humidity/moisture, so you can spry a bit of water on the gluing place before applying, then glue together.

this will be helping you to fill-in the "not precise cutting/milling".