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Thread: Altec A7/VOT Bass Enhancer?

  1. #16
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    Turning down the mids and highs doesn't accomplish the same thing because the intermittent frequencies are unaffected and you end up with a couple broad dips in the band (e.g., Bactrian camel hump). 31 bands of eq could probably do it.

    Adding a BA-63 or dBx is essentially going to do the same thing as the bass control, maybe even moreso with respect to power requirements from the amp, unless it goes to a dedicated sub.

    What value cap are you looking for?

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    Turning down the mids and highs doesn't accomplish the same thing because the intermittent frequencies are unaffected and you end up with a couple broad dips in the band (e.g., Bactrian camel hump). 31 bands of eq could probably do it.

    Adding a BA-63 or dBx is essentially going to do the same thing as the bass control, maybe even moreso with respect to power requirements from the amp, unless it goes to a dedicated sub.

    What value cap are you looking for?
    I'll find my own caps, thank you very much.

    You crack me, up you really do ...
    You've never heard one, have no idea what it does other than wild guesses,
    yet you're going to dis it anyway, despite your ignorance.

    You gave me the same kind of know-it-all BS when I bought a 31 band EQ
    for my 4341s way back then ...
    "Don't turn up the bass that way, it will just raise the noise floor"

    Your kind of closed mindedness is why the Lansing Forum continues to shrink.
    Who would want to stick around for such abuse?

    Sad, just sad.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post

    You gave me the same kind of know-it-all BS when I bought a 31 band EQ
    for my 4341s way back then ...
    "Don't turn up the bass that way, it will just raise the noise floor"

    Sad, just sad.
    Wasn't me or you are remembering it wrong. I went through the old posts and I don't see it.

    You can do/think/say what you want. My mentioning the bass adjustment just lets other people reading the thread recognize that they can get to the same place without relying on 60 year old technology that is unavailable to them.

  4. #19
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    Hello Heather

    Hey if you ever get the urge to biamp them the Urie/JBL 5235 Active crossover has an option to add some LF boost without messing with the mids and highs. It has an option for a 40 Hz Q2 filter unlike the BX-63 which is fixed at 26hz and too low for that system. It also gives you several options with diferent Q's to try. Enjoy your speakers they should be a blast to listen to.

    Rob
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robh3606 View Post
    Hello Heather

    Hey if you ever get the urge to biamp them the Urie/JBL 5235 Active crossover has an option to add some LF boost without messing with the mids and highs. It has an option for a 40 Hz Q2 filter unlike the BX-63 which is fixed at 26hz and too low for that system. It also gives you several options with diferent Q's to try. Enjoy your speakers they should be a blast to listen to.
    Rob
    Hey Robh! Cool info thanks for sharing that!
    I kept a (spare) Ashly Active Eq from my 4341 Biamp days until real recently -
    (this year's winter cleaning meant thinning some old parts stock)
    but I'll keep an eye out for a Urie/JBL 5235 crossover.


    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    Wasn't me or you are remembering it wrong. I went through the old posts and I don't see it.
    You can do/think/say what you want. My mentioning the bass adjustment just lets other people reading the thread
    recognize that they can get to the same place without relying on 60 year old technology that is unavailable to them.
    Well, I do remember, but I'm not hunting LHF for such an old thread now.
    Besides, the 100As are dedicated low pass filters, and they DO work better than just cranking up the bass adjustment on an amp.
    Believe what you want, but trust me on this - I actually have a pair (not for sale) and I can actually HEAR what its doing.

    But I gotta say, the Bass Energizers are hardly unavailable -
    took me less than a month to find a pair for a reasonable price.
    And you know, Lansing Heritage is full of examples of folks enjoying 60 year technology ...

    So lets skip both those lame excuses right now!
    Folks will try a pair if they want - I just brought them up here since there is a lack of knowledge on them ...
    (Altec) Lansing Heritage Forum, doncha know!
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post

    Well, I do remember, but I'm not hunting LHF for such an old thread now.

    The discussion was specific to using the Yamaha 31-band eq that you had obtained and my suggestion was not to put it between the preamp and the amp because it is a noisy piece of equipment and in my system when I was using it in this position, the noise was readily notable.

    You said you couldn't hear the noise.

    The EQ got here Friday!
    I mounted it in the rack right away, but didn't have cables yet. I could also use one more perforated panel between the Yam and the Adcom power sequencer to make everything symetrical, but its not like anything up top puts out any real heat to speak of ...

    I was expecting delivery of a package of XLR-XLR cables from Monoprice but they didn't arrive Friday or yesterday, so this morning I took some old connectors, cleaned them up and wired up an extra pair of M-F cables so I could try it out ...

    Doesn't sound hissy to me - perhaps I need better amps than the JBL/UREI gear to hear it,
    but the noise level seems unchanged when the Yamaha is switched in or out ...

    Haven't had time to do anything other than just dink it a bit and make sure its working ...
    hear it do some cuts and boosts - Seems to do that well enough

    Hopefully I can do some room calibration later ... I do have a test CD with various audio tones,
    and I could put my RS SPM meter on a tripod and take level readings ...
    I suspect thats a kind of crude approach, but without fancy tools it should work ...



    I'm glad it's working for you. Do you run it just before the crossover then attenuate at the crossover and/or at the power amp?

    For kicks, try putting it directly between the preamp and power amp (if you can) on the upstairs L200+ system and listen to the noise.

  7. #22
    Moderator hjames's Avatar
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    The 4341s and the biamp system are long gone, friend - I've moved on ...
    got 2 pair of UREI 809As downstairs fronts and sides in a 7.1 system
    The L200+ system was sold a few years back as well - again, I moved on.
    Upstairs is a pair of L212s, the Von Schweikert VR-4s, and the Heath AS-101s I'm modifying ...
    driven by Jolida integrated tube amp ... no tone controls.

    But its nice to see you believe me now - that it wasn't someone else I was speaking about.





    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    The discussion was specific to using the Yamaha 31-band eq that you had obtained and my suggestion was not to put it between the preamp and the amp because it is a noisy piece of equipment and in my system when I was using it in this position, the noise was readily notable.

    You said you couldn't hear the noise.

    The EQ got here Friday!
    I mounted it in the rack right away, but didn't have cables yet. I could also use one more perforated panel between the Yam and the Adcom power sequencer to make everything symetrical, but its not like anything up top puts out any real heat to speak of ...

    I was expecting delivery of a package of XLR-XLR cables from Monoprice but they didn't arrive Friday or yesterday, so this morning I took some old connectors, cleaned them up and wired up an extra pair of M-F cables so I could try it out ...

    Doesn't sound hissy to me - perhaps I need better amps than the JBL/UREI gear to hear it,
    but the noise level seems unchanged when the Yamaha is switched in or out ...

    Haven't had time to do anything other than just dink it a bit and make sure its working ...
    hear it do some cuts and boosts - Seems to do that well enough

    Hopefully I can do some room calibration later ... I do have a test CD with various audio tones,
    and I could put my RS SPM meter on a tripod and take level readings ...
    I suspect thats a kind of crude approach, but without fancy tools it should work ...



    I'm glad it's working for you. Do you run it just before the crossover then attenuate at the crossover and/or at the power amp?

    For kicks, try putting it directly between the preamp and power amp (if you can) on the upstairs L200+ system and listen to the noise.
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjames View Post
    The 4341s and the biamp system are long gone, friend - I've moved on ...
    got 2 pair of UREI 809As downstairs fronts and sides in a 7.1 system
    The L200+ system was sold a few years back as well - again, I moved on.
    Upstairs is a pair of L212s, the Von Schweikert VR-4s, and the Heath AS-101s I'm modifying ...
    driven by Jolida integrated tube amp ... no tone controls.

    But its nice to see you believe me now - that it wasn't someone else I was speaking about.
    As I said, you remembered it wrong and were misquoting me. I don't like to be misquoted.

    I never said not to use bass or even eq or that this adds to the noise floor as you say I said..., only that the Yamaha 31-band eq that you got at the time, and I have, is noisy and it does add to the noise floor, especially when used between thd preamp and amp. I made 10 dB line attenuators for mine before I took them out of the system (two were being used). If you can't hear the hiss, good for you.

    Did you ever check this out by putting it between the preamp and amp in the upstairs system as I suggested at the time?

  9. #24
    Moderator hjames's Avatar
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    Again, as I said at the time, there was no added noise in my system with our EQ.
    Neither my wife or I heard any noise, and she has quite good ears.
    At the time (and now, apparently) your mind was made up that we DID have noise,
    it seemed pointless to argue with you. It still does.

    And as I told you yesterday, I have moved on - you have a nice rest-of-the-week.

    Quote Originally Posted by toddalin View Post
    As I said, you remembered it wrong and were misquoting me. I don't like to be misquoted.

    Did you ever check this out by putting it between the preamp and amp in the upstairs system as I suggested at the time?
    Since we did not have noise from my Yamaha EQ in my system, why would I have tried in another system?
    I didn't realize I misquoted you, I apologize for that. I had mostly put the whole conversation out of my mind
    after you kept insisting we heard something that wasn't there. My memory was that it wasn't the same Yamaha model,
    but lets just let the old argument die now, shall we? No one else cares.

    Going BACK ON TOPIC - the original point this week was you said turning up the Bass control
    was the same as using the Altec Bass Energizer, I said it wasn't so there we differ.
    Its a neat piece of tech that others seem to find interesting.
    I'm just happy I could share some new info on them.

    The rest is simply old news that no one cares about today.
    Time is precious - have a nice day.
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  10. #25
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    Hi Heather,

    Glad you are having fun with the bass energiser

    With that capacitor do you know the value?

    If it is electrolytic type that tells me it’s large only because of the frequency the energiser works at.

    Due to size limitations you could replace it with a modern non polarised electrolytic capacitor (for audio)

    There are suitable large values of non polarised electrolytic caps made for crossovers like the ones used in the Everest helper filter.

    Try Parts Express
    https://www.parts-express.com/cat/no...apacitors/1385

  11. #26
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    Had a bit of time on Saturday morning. Opened up the Bass Energizers and saw an iron core choke and bundle under black potting compound.
    Felt waxy but its not like the beeswax in the old JBL crossover cans.

    Put it in a shallow pot of water and set to boil ... it softened but never melted -
    I gather its some kind of tarry compound and not wax.
    But with an old fork I was able to pop the old network loose from the warmed compound.

    The old NP caps (circa 1966) are 100mfd.
    I had already ordered 4x 50mfd NP electrolytic caps from Madisound on Monday
    (I was worried that size might be an issue for larger values in that can),
    so I'll start reassembly with fresh caps shortly.

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  12. #27
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    Cool Stuff Heather,

    Is there any chance that you could test the (uF ) value of that ancient NP cap that you just pulled out?

    Thanks <> Earl

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earl K View Post
    Cool Stuff Heather,

    Is there any chance that you could test the (uF ) value of that ancient NP cap that you just pulled out?

    Thanks <> Earl
    Don't know about testing the value, no cap meter
    - but they are marked. Does this help?

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  14. #29
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    Oh,

    I mistakenly thought you had a volt meter that could also measure capacitance.

    My bad!


  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earl K View Post
    Oh,

    I mistakenly thought you had a volt meter that could also measure capacitance.

    My bad!

    Lemme see, I know my ancient Fluke VOM doesn't,
    but I bought a cheap inductance meter recently for tuning coils.
    Honestly haven't looked to see if it does caps -
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