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Thread: How to attach the badges on big 43's?

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    Senior Member martin2395's Avatar
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    How to attach the badges on big 43's?

    Can anyone tell me how are the original "Model 43XX studio monitor" metal badges attached to the front grilles? I know that the there are metal lips with holes in the frame itself but the badge itself doesn't have any adhesive.

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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    The originals had metal tabs attached to the frame of the grilles behind the fabric and the badges had posts that went through the grille cloth and into the metal tabs and were secured with nuts, I believe. I can't tell because mine are Kenrick clones and my badges as supplied have nothing on their backs. I tried neodymium magnets behind the cloth with ferrous metal plates glued to the badges but I didn't like it.

    I'd love to hear other solutions but actually in my living room I'm liking my 4345s without badges.
    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Senior Member martin2395's Avatar
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    The badges look original, the metal tabs are present too but the badges have a smooth surface on their backs. No signs of broken off bolts or whatsoever.
    Previous owner used a piece of double sided tape to attach two flat head pins to the badges and which then went through the holes in the tabs - not the best looking solution.

    Sticking a piece of ferrous metal to the badges sounds like an idea but they may be tricky to align properly.

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    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
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    I will have to look back but I thought they used tie pins like tie tacks no?

    Barry.
    If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.

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    Senior Member martin2395's Avatar
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    Mine indeed had a kind of tie pins attached but that double sided tape just did'n look right.

    They looked like this but of course without the chain and with a plain flat head pin

    Name:  rever-das-speld-pin-met-echt-zoetwaterpareltje-52380398.jpg
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    Senior Member quindecima's Avatar
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    I think I have figured out a way to do this with a screw back attachment but I need a little time to figure it out. I need to attach my 4345 foilcaps so this is a priority.

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    Dang. Amateur speakerdave's Avatar
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    The original grille frames had drilled metal tabs on specially placed struts to nowhere. Pins were glued to the back of the badges. The pins went through the holes on the metal tabs and were held in place by spring loaded clips such as are found on tie tacks and award pins. In my view no method which hangs the badges on the cloth will be satisfactory since in the long run the fabric will pull and/or sag, maybe just a little, but that would be enough to be visually noticeable, even if they hang straight to begin with, which I doubt. Using magnets that way will just add weight. If it were me doing it, I would use struts with magnets glued to them and light pieces of steel glued to the back of the badge. Then they could be left off most of the time, and only brought out for Show and Tell. It's possible the gripping of the magnets will make an impression on the grille cloth fibers, but it might brush out.
    "Audio is filled with dangerous amateurs." --- Tim de Paravicini

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    Senior Member quindecima's Avatar
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    My idea is to use narrow (3/8) light gauge metal strips off of the grill with holes drilled in them to accept small drill stock that is jb welded into the back of the foilcals. I am going to look into this method to see if I can use it. There is no way you can attach the foilcals to the grill cloth and have it come out acceptable.

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    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Speed nuts

    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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    Senior Member quindecima's Avatar
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    I was thinking of screw back fasteners but those would work just as well.

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    Senior Member 1audiohack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCCA View Post
    Speed nuts


    As long as you never want to get them back off.

    Barry.
    If we knew what the hell we were doing, we wouldn't call it research would we.

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    I have a box of Made in the U.S.A. exact fit for the pin size as used on the L96, L112 etc ubiquitous cast square badges - EXACTLY what JBL used (at least on every pair from that era that have owned) Small round type easily removed with a pick and a steady hand

    That spring type as shown above this post is what they used back in the day of the brass "Signature" type badges, late '50s thru the early '60s (and I don't recommend trying reusing them, or any of them for that matter, they're too tight and the spring steel makes it hard to cut them off) Fiddling around trying to get them to release after decades isn't worth the risks or the hassles, just cut them off and use new ones if you insist on metal

    I've done it both ways; every time you slide that thing over the pin you cut a new groove - LONG TERM USE ONLY

    The gentlest method if you want to use the pins is to use small rubber discs, either homemade or store bought

    I prefer homemade as I can cut to the size and shape needed to do the best job

    Small O-rings will work too but may not provide the back support you may need (a heavy badge might sag)

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    Senior Member Goldjazz's Avatar
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    Here's whats on my 4343b's

    Looks like a rivet with a flat head on the grill side that must have been bonded or spot welded to the badge. Mine had come off and a previous owner had tried to rebond them then hide the ugliness if the glue with gaffe tape. This repair detatched again at some point and I havent repaired it as I dont use the grills.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

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    Senior Member martin2395's Avatar
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    I don't use the grilles too but the speakers are listed for sale and It would've been nice to make them look as good as possible

  15. #15
    Senior Member BMWCCA's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pictures.
    How many tabs/posts per badge?

    If you google "Jewelry findings tie-tack post" you'll find lots of stuff like this which should be easy to attach with some JB Weld or other:

    http://www.esslinger.com/tie-tacks-c...-cuff-links-1/

    (Probably find similar at local Michaels)

    ". . . as you have no doubt noticed, no one told the 4345 that it can't work correctly so it does anyway."—Greg Timbers

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