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Thread: My Winter Project - Altec Build

  1. #16
    Senior Member srm51555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earl K View Post
    I wouldn't buy the Eminence networks . There's no telling how they will interact with your Altec components .

    All-n-all, I believe you are best to buy ( via eBay ) a pair of N501-8a's ( if the lower x-over point is where you want to start ) or N801 or N809's ( for the higher 800hz point ) and then add the mid-range suppression circuitry ( 30903/4 ).

    The two models seem to average $100.00 a piece ( judging from past sales ) . If they don't happen to work with your components they can at least be easily tossed back on the Bay to recapture most of your investment.

    Making your own is slightly more affordable ( at around $80. to 90. ea ) using components from Parts Express .
    - Also, ( fwiw ) the values I posted don't really come with a guaranteed certificate of provenance / though these questions of the accuracy of the LC values, could ( & should ) be researched .
    - Here's one older thread that's quite interesting
    - And Another !

    +1 on building an 800hz variant with a mid range suppresser. I can't find the post, but I remember Mr. Widget posted a 500hz horn is really a 800-1000hz horn and 800hz is really a 1200hz horn. This is evident when looking at the model 19 crossover's 1200hz. I built a project similar to this about 13 years ago. Good luck

  2. #17
    Administrator Mr. Widget's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by srm51555 View Post
    ...but I remember Mr. Widget posted a 500hz horn is really a 800-1000hz horn and 800hz is really a 1200hz horn.
    Not exactly. What I've concluded from years of experimenting is that when you use a horn more conservatively they tend to sound less honky and horn like. The hard nasal quality that many dislike about horns is significantly reduced if you give yourself an additional octave or two between the horn's cut off frequency and your crossover choice.


    Widget

  3. #18
    Senior Member gdmoore28's Avatar
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    I've heard repeatedly that the 501B sounds much better crossed closer to 800Hz rather than the specified 500Hz. And it only makes sense that the lower frequencies have a pronounced tendency to cause "honking" or "ringing." Fortunately, it looks like the "N501-8B Preliminary" crossover w/midrange attenuation network that Earl posted for me crosses at approximately 580Hz, so that will move me almost 100Hz upward. I have some mounting options in mind that should help with any horn resonance, but considering the relatively low volume levels that this speaker will see (small room), I'm hoping that ringing will not be a problem. An old friend of mine, now passed on, used 501B/802D horns over University S6 bass horns crossed at 500Hz, and I never detected ringing in his system despite nice volume levels in a small room. But, having worked in ProSound for a number of years, I know very well that infamous Altec "honk" when used in auditoriums at mid/hi volume.

    GeeDeeEmm

  4. #19
    Senior Member hsosdrum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earl K View Post
    You're welcome Ed.

    Here a look at Art J's Hi-end crossover ;



    Let's give credit where credit's due: this illustration was originally created by Randall Munroe, of XKCD fame.

  5. #20
    Senior Member gdmoore28's Avatar
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    Oops!!!!!

    I just realized that I've been referring to the 511B horn as a 501B. I've been doing some reading on other sites about restoring and using the Bose 901 speakers (my first honest to goodness quality speaker purchase in 1975), and somehow I mixed the -01 Bose numbers with the Altec -11. I have trouble remembering my own kid's/grandkid's names, so mixing numbers and names is quite routine for me. Sorry for the confusion!

    GeeDeeEmm

  6. #21
    Senior Member Altec Best's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdmoore28 View Post
    [COLOR=#333333][FONT=Verdana]I've posted this same query at the Altec Users forum, but received no interest, so I'm hoping somebody here might have some experience in the direction I want to take with this build.

    GeeDeeEmm[/I]

    @Gdmoore, Its not that there was no interest it is because the board was experiencing technical difficulties which of late seems to be the norm.. .Unfortunately ! People weren't able to post at all !

    I myself wasn't able to view the board for the past couple days.I spoke to the Admin. about it on the phone last night and today the board is back up. Sorry about that !

    I think I have a couple spares lying around of the Altec 30904 if you need them ?

    "James B. Lansing" = Lansing Manufacturing ~ Altec Lansing ~ JBL

  7. #22
    Senior Member gdmoore28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Altec Best View Post
    @Gdmoore, Its not that there was no interest it is because the board was experiencing technical difficulties which of late seems to be the norm.. .Unfortunately ! People weren't able to post at all !

    I myself wasn't able to view the board for the past couple days.I spoke to the Admin. about it on the phone last night and today the board is back up. Sorry about that !

    I think I have a couple spares lying around of the Altec 30904 if you need them ?


    Thanks so much. PM sent.

    It dawned on me after I initially posted that there may be a problem with the server. This became evident when I was unable to log on, and even when I managed to access the board it would intermittently go blank and lock down. The same thing was happening on another board that I visit that apparently uses the same server. Nonetheless, folks have been extremely helpful and gone above and beyond to help and to recommend directions I should take. I am humbled and quite thankful to all.

    GeeDeeEmm

  8. #23
    Senior Member Altec Best's Avatar
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    Got it Thanks !

    "James B. Lansing" = Lansing Manufacturing ~ Altec Lansing ~ JBL

  9. #24
    Senior Member gdmoore28's Avatar
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    Just an update. Altec Best is selling me a couple of 30904 Attenuation/EQ networks. Thanks so much, AB! Today I made a visit to our local antique furniture dealer, and talked to the furniture refinisher about the build I'm working on. He was gracious to show me around the refinishing shop and gave me lots of tips on finishing these cabs with the antique look I want. Best of all, he's offered to sell me some gorgeous mahogany veneer that he has on hand. This veneer looks the way mahogany used to look, very dark and a deep shade of red. It will look beautiful once finished. The only thing that has me concerned is that this veneer is unbacked, raw veneer, and he does report some instances of having it becoming unattached in past repairs. He uses contact cement when veneering and has been doing this his whole life, so I'm in for some research on how to avoid the problems he's encountered. The veneer has been stored for many years in a climate-controlled building, lying flat with other lumber on top. I saw no defects in it at all. Any of you guys have experience in using unbacked veneers?

    GeeDeeEmm

  10. #25
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    Lay out each piece of the veneer in the room it will be applied in long enough to acclimate them to the environment it will be applied in; ditto the plywood if not in the room where it's to be built.

    Solvent or latex based contact cement? It must be solvent for un-backed. Also, does he screed it out with a proper veneer scraper and some serious arm pressure or.....? Rollers suck in comparison unless you're a brick mason or similar strength. Consider DIYing a vacuum bag system if veneering panels before assembly.

    I've read many veneering [and even more coatings] horror stories on the net, but in nearly all of them folks either don't clean/prepare the surfaces properly and/or use the proper tools, chemicals, etc., i.e. not following the basics of properly doing any kind of finish work. Doesn't hurt to practice some first with cheap un-backed veneer either.

    GM

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by GDM
    <<<SNIP>>> Best of all, he's offered to sell me some gorgeous mahogany veneer that he has on hand. This veneer looks the way mahogany used to look, very dark and a deep shade of red. It will look beautiful once finished. The only thing that has me concerned is that this veneer is unbacked, raw veneer, and he does report some instances of having it becoming unattached in past repairs. He uses contact cement when veneering and has been doing this his whole life, so I'm in for some research on how to avoid the problems he's encountered.<<<<SNIP>>>


    One can learn a whole lot at this forum ( as well as a couple of others ) by simply implementing the search word veneer ( for a complete LHF site search ) .

    I've also seen mentioned that an almost foolproof attachment method appears to be the dried glue ( on both surfaces ) that is reactivated by the use of a hot iron over the veneer ( allowing for easy positioning of the veneer ) .

    There has been ( over the last 13 years ) somewhat a bit of a consensus ( reached ) about the best way to veneer ( for both the newb & the even the most experienced ) .

    I've also seen mentioned ( somewhere around here ) info on the pitfalls of using non-backed veneer .

    If you want to review some of the stellar work of the many who have gone before you, then I'd recommend constructing an Excel spreadsheet ( that includes hot-links within cells for fast access ) to lead one back to interesting posts & threads.
    A separate column for the authors is another idea.


  12. #27
    Senior Member gdmoore28's Avatar
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    The refinisher told me that he uses the dried glue/hot iron method on smaller repairs. I'm not sure what kind of contact cement he uses, but I saw a number of empty Deft cans lying round, so that's probably a clue. Having watched a few videos and read a few how-tos, I'm coming to the conclusion that GM has a good point here - warnings abound about practicing exacting surface prep proceedures, especially in the areas of cleanliness and glue coverage. One video I watched by a pro refinisher likewise stressed ditching the rollers and using only veneer application scrapers as the only sure fire way of assuring complete adhesion. Much more research to do. I've been doing cabinets and even some furniture since I was a teenager, but the only veneering I've done was for finishing end grains on plywood.

    GeeDeeEmm

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