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Thread: Crown CTs Fan Mod

  1. #16
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    so you will run both fans off one connector?

    Im still happy with papst, but I would like it to run quieter for those late night sessions with low volumes, as I can still hear them with music playing at 40-50dB

  2. #17
    Member sebackman's Avatar
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    Yepp

    Hi,

    Yes, both on one connector. Works just fine. Both connectors are the same.

    Kind regards
    // RoB
    The solution to the problem changes the problem.
    -And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder

  3. #18
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    Hey Rob
    I will try them out!
    I see there is a three pin connector. One pin is for the controller that I can just ignore? I'm talking about the Uln fan. seems to be their most silent 80mm fan

  4. #19
    Member sebackman's Avatar
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    Hi,

    Sorry for late reply. Yes just cut the yellow line, it is for rpm surveillance. I recommend buying the non PWM model (4 leads).

    You will have to cut the original connector and solder the leads as the Crown connector is non PC standard

    Kind regards.

    //RoB
    The solution to the problem changes the problem.
    -And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder

  5. #20
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    12V fans

    Dear Rob!

    Thanks for the hint connecting two 12V in series.

    I did it today, and it is more silent than silent. I used ULN NFA8. Not much airflow (35m3/h) compared to the papst, but hopefully more than enough for a living room system seldom playing over 80dB.

    Johan

  6. #21
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    Johan, sent you a PM but might as well ask here as others could use the info.

    Sounds really nice with the Noctua solution! So let me know if I understand you correctly:
    - Unplug stock fans from "Output 1" and "Output 2"
    - Connect two 12v fans in series to "Output 1" leaving "Output 2" empty.

    Have you had any issues with the Noctua ULN and overheating? They move way less air than the stock.

  7. #22
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    Warning!

    I just setup my system with the fan modded Crown CTs2000 driving a subwoofer... I only played low level, but after 5 minutes, the "Thermal" lamps lighted up, and the amp went into fault-mode. I have them placed in a rack.

    I replaced the Noctua with the stock amps again, and the amp did not go into thermal mode anymore. But after one hours of low level listening again, it made a huge "bang" and went all read. THe smell of burned metal was noticable instantly. Goodbye amp

    So I would NOT advice anyone to do a fan mod on the Crown Class-I amps if they want to keep their amps Maybe it would work if they are free-standing in a ventilated room, but in a rack, it's no-go.

  8. #23
    Member sebackman's Avatar
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    That was not good.

    I am really sorry to hear that!

    I do not have a CTS2000 or CTS3000 but I do run my CTS1200 pretty (4x 2226) hard and have not had any problem. I use MC2 amps for more power and there I use Papst fans as per above. No problem with them either. A T2000 drives my two sealed SUB1500 and has been for years.

    Did you use any Noctua resistors or just the two 12V fans in series? No problem with connectors? Was the rack open in the back? Clean air flow in? Open the lid to see if it is clean inside or full of dust. I had a CTS1200 that came out of a fixed installation and it went into protect with original fans and when opened it was completely filled with dust so there was virtually no air flow. Please see pictures.

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    It sounds like the I-class amps may be different when it comes to protection. I have had CTS600, 1200, 4200 and 8200 go into protection mode from all sorts of stupid things I have done, like shortening outputs, have too many speakers in parallel and not opening the rear of the case for exhaust air). But no one has died on me so far.

    Worth noting is that you used the ULN (Ultra Low Noise) version with only 35m3/h and I have used, as per post above, the 1800rpm and 2200rpm versions that flows 53m3/h but more important creates a much higher static pressure to draw air through the chassis.
    http://noctua.at/en/products/fan

    It may or may not have helped you and it is sad what happened nevertheless.

    Anyway, I concur with the issuing a warning here.

    DO NOT CHANGE TO LOW REV FANS ON CTS2000 or CTS3000, UNLESS YOU REALLY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.


    IF YOU DO, PLEASE PROCEED AT YOU OWN RISK.

    DO NOT USE NOCTUA ULN (Ultra Low Noise) VERSIONS AS THEY PROVIDE TO LOW FLOW AND TOO LITTLE STATIC PREASSURE.

    CONSIDER USING PABST FANS WITH HIGHER AIR FLOW AND LOW NOISE.

    THE ONLY NOCTUA VERSIONS THAT SHOULD BE CONSIDERED IS THE 1800 OR 2200 RPM VERSIONS WITH HIGHER AIR FLOW AND HIGHER STATIC PREASSURE. CHECK TEMPERATURE AT FULL POWER BEFORE INSTALLING.

    NOTE THAT THIS SWAP HAS BEEN DONE ON CTS600, 1200, 4200 WITHOUT PROBLEMS BUT THAT DOES NOT MEAN THAT IT WILL WORK ON CTS2000 AND 3000

    TOROUGH CLEANOUT IS MANDATORY ON THESE AMPS IF THERE ARE FROM AN EARLIER INSTALLATION AS THEY CAN FILL UP WITH DUST THAT WILL RESTRICT OR EVEN STOP THE AIRFLOW.

    Best regards
    //RoB
    The solution to the problem changes the problem.
    -And always remember that all of your equipment was made by the lowest bidder

  9. #24
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    I have three CTS1200 For my LCR and they run Noctua as well with no issues. Have done this several years. The class I is a different beast regarding heat

  10. #25
    Senior Member gferrell's Avatar
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    I put thermal switches in mine on the heat sinks. The fan comes on at 120 degrees and go off at 90 degrees so it will cycle on and off unless playing really loud. So the fan does not come on until the amp hits 120 degrees. By then the music drowns out the fan. Really budget friendly.
    XPL 200's, XPL 160's, XPL 140's, L7's, L5's, L3's, L1's Homemade L Center, 4412's, 4406, L60T's, L20T's

  11. #26
    Senior Member baldrick's Avatar
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    This could also very well happen without fan mod so it's not at all certain that the fan mod is the cause. I had i.e. a CTS3000 With bad soldering that caused similar problems.

  12. #27
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    I have been running my cts1200 now for 4 months with noctua 12v fans in serial and no issues. Completely silemt and cool to the touch even after house parties with continous loud music for a whole evening.
    Thanks for the headsup regarding cts2000 and above. I will put more powerful pabst fans in my cts2000

  13. #28
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    Fan mod on the CTS 8200

    Hi, forum newbee here. Just reviving this thread, since it's the only thread I've found online on this topic.

    I'm considering to buy a Crown CTS 8200. They can be found on the cheap on ebay these days. Has anybody tried modding the fans on those? It seems to me to be a bit more complex than on the other models, since it's four fans (one 80 mm and three 60 mm, according to folks here).

    And this might be a stupid question, but... assuming there's four "silent fans" running in tandem. Is there a reason to believe that it won't actually be so silent anymore? I've no experience with noctua fans, that's why I ask. Could it in principle be possible to only use two fans - for example one 80 mm and one 60 mm? I never listen very loudly - most often around 68-75 db baseline, but lots of classical so large dynamic peaks. So the amp isn't going to run extremely hot anyway. But I don't want to risk destroying the amp.

    Or I could rather go for a 4200... I only need four channels, in order to actively biamp a two-way. The woofers are long excursion drivers, have a sensitivity of 86 db (impedance should vary from 6 to 9 ohm according to the manufacturer), and are eqed to go all the way down to 34 hz. I have a hunch that more power for the woofers is always a good idea. I was therefore thinking that it could be a good idea to bridge four of the channels in the 8200 for the woofers, and use two channels for the tweeters, with two channels to spare.

    Alternatively, two CTS 600 (or a CTS 1200 and a CTS 600) could do the trick. Are the 2-channel CTS amps supposed to be better than the multichannel ones? I've noticed that the damping factor of 2-channel amps his super high, while the multichannel amps have a much more common damping of 180. Don't know if that would make a difference in my case though.

    Alright, some confused thoughts there.
    Any feedback or advice appreciated!

  14. #29
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    Just a guess, I have no experience with these amps, but I imagine in a normal home stereo application that a couple of fans would be plenty as long as they are for general enclosure ventilation and not actively cooling a critical part.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffW View Post
    Just a guess, I have no experience with these amps, but I imagine in a normal home stereo application that a couple of fans would be plenty as long as they are for general enclosure ventilation and not actively cooling a critical part.
    Thanks. That would be my guess too. As long as it's technically possible to only use two of the fans.

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