speaker connections for 4343

[Wagner]

I really appreciate your good points on this. Looks like you're good at that, but I'm far from it.

Any decently made post will serve your needs, just as good as any other, just look carefully at the dimensions and hole sizes etc and pick the one that will meet your requirements

You can buy very well made binding posts for between $5 to $10 bucks

Parts Express has some good choices but they gouge on shipping, so try and order when you have a list if you go with them; there are other good suppliers as well (do a search, especially for outfits that cater to the pro sound trade) The guys I like to use for wire charge actual cost for shipping but I don't think they stock consumer type 5-ways
Don't fall for the audio jewelry

[bldozier]

i read in a few forums swapping to gold or copper plating may effect the sound reproduction. can anyone confirm. i see a resale company
which uses rhodium for their terminals.
I'm wondering if eliminating the dated JBL terminals for gold or rhodium set may benefit, the 3114.
also would updating L-pads affect the outputs at all.
thanks

[Ricpan]

I do something a little different. I solder directly to the the crossover. I have done it on my JBL 4345s and my Bozak Concert Grands. I think the metal connection on the older speakers are not very good. I think you get a better connection and it cost you next to nothing. If I have to move my speakers I just disconnect from my amps. My 4345s even had expensive MDT connectors and I took them out.

[bldozier]

Interesting, if I have a rash I buy an ointment, I don't see a doctor.
But maybe I should start.
What are MDT connections,

i listened to a sound
comparison between stock 3143 an rebuilt networks. The stock
sounded more musical over the newer networks. From the
lower to upper bands, not as punchy.

my 3114s not 100% original having L-pads and caps out.
I don't have anything for a comparison at the moment
but I may want to somehow liven it up. I can't soldier but
would change my terminals in a heartbeat. L-pads are already
done.

[Ruediger]

They guarantee a contact resistance < 2 milli Ohms after "life time" which is specified as > 5000 plugging cycles.

Ruediger

[BMWCCA]

They guarantee a contact resistance < 2 milli Ohms after "life time" which is specified as > 5000 plugging cycles.

Roller contacts with positive lock. They were on my 4345s when I got them. Took them off simply because they were wired for the crossovers outside the cabinets and I wanted them inside. It looked to me like all the rather small Faston connections on the Neutrik NL8 would be the weak point in the path so I went with Neutrik dual-bananas on 6-Moon White Lighting cables from the two amps into conventional two-pair binding post input cups at the back of the speakers and then direct to the drivers and L-pads. Seemed simpler for my application but I've used the NLs in professional applications with great results.

[Ian Mackenzie]

Hi friends,

As you see in the attached pic, speaker input jacks on 4343 are old-fashioned binding posts where you can only use bare wires.
I've been using bare wires both for LF and MF/HF (biamp) for the past several years, as some say bare wire sounds best. However, over time I see the color of the bare wires hooked into the binding posts has changed due to oxidation. Now, I would like to invite your opinion on the best possible way for terminating the bare wires. For example, do you recommend using connectors like spade lugs or banana plugs? Any advice or feedback is welcome. Thanks.

It’s an old problem

Your choices depend on your budget and associated equipment

My friends at Pass Labs recommend short stout wires and good terminations.

I have used Cardas spades and binding posts with no complaints

For a bit more more money you get something worthwhile.

The key points are surface area and contact pressure.

Use a quality spade with a superior flat contact area.

You can’t do that with a wire.

Quality finishes on the spade and the binding post will mitigate oxides but periodic cleaning is always advisable

That JBL binding post (old style) is essentially a steel bolt.

Its sinful to find such a thing on any deprived loudspeaker.

Throw it out.